P38A EAS leak, what am I missing...?

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MrGorsky

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Buckinghamshire.
Morning All,

I have a leak in my EAS somewhere but I'm stumped as to where it is.

I've removed the timer relay, and the suspension stays up all night, so the leak isn't from the bags.

I've used soapy water on all the joints, there was very small bubbling from the top of the drier, so I replaced that. I can't find any bubbles from any of the joints now.

I've replaced the valve block with my spare. A brand new unused one from Kurt.

The leak happens overnight and pressure is lost from the tank. In the morning the compressor runs to recharge the tank pressure and once it's restored the suspension operates without fault all day. Although the compressor does run more frequently so pressure is being lost from the tank side of things.

Where do I look? There's only one pipe from the tank to the valve block and that seems to be fine. The joint into the valve block seems to be sound. Is it possible to get a pin hole in the plastic pipe??? It's driving me mad, and if I don't find it soon I'll be buying a new compressor!
 
Either leak at tank connection, in pipe tank to valve block, in connection pipe 6 to valve block or NRV 1. Or of course tank itself but that is unlikely. Drier can only leak whilst compressor is running it cannot cause a corner to drop.
 
Either leak at tank connection, in pipe tank to valve block, in connection pipe 6 to valve block or NRV 1. Or of course tank itself but that is unlikely. Drier can only leak whilst compressor is running it cannot cause a corner to drop.
Cheers @wammers I'll have another look. If NRV 1 is leaking will it bubble on top of the valve block if I spray some soapy water on there??
 
I've just been out to have another look. With the car parked on a flat surface, with the bonnet up and the lid off the EAS box, I can hear (and see) the front constantly searching up and down. Tiny adjustments, but parked stationary it should just sit there shouldn't it??

Perhaps I have a dicky sensor as well? Last time I had it on diagnostics, the live sensor readings were pretty stable.
 
I was shown by an RR mechanic get a spray bottle put soap and water in and then run the car and spray water inside the valve block and that will shoe you where the leak is, do the same with the pipes into the block as well, the bubbling will show you where you leak is.
 
Had same problem last year ran a new pipe from tank to valve block along offside then straight to valve block instead of going round back and along near side
 
I was shown by an RR mechanic get a spray bottle put soap and water in and then run the car and spray water inside the valve block and that will shoe you where the leak is, do the same with the pipes into the block as well, the bubbling will show you where you leak is.

I hope you mean ON the valve block.
 
I was shown by an RR mechanic get a spray bottle put soap and water in and then run the car and spray water inside the valve block and that will shoe you where the leak is, do the same with the pipes into the block as well, the bubbling will show you where you leak is.
You NEVER spray water or anything else INSIDE the valve block
 
I've been through @wammers check list and I can't detect a leak anywhere from the valve block.

However, I had 10 bar last night...

IMG_7309.JPG

And only 4 bar this morning.

IMG_7310.JPG

@Grrrrrr has lent me some air line, I'll run a temporary air pipe today and see if it holds. @pete12345 did you use the LR replacement or did you just rig your own thing up?
 
I've been through @wammers check list and I can't detect a leak anywhere from the valve block.

However, I had 10 bar last night...

View attachment 176229

And only 4 bar this morning.

View attachment 176230

@Grrrrrr has lent me some air line, I'll run a temporary air pipe today and see if it holds. @pete12345 did you use the LR replacement or did you just rig your own thing up?
As it self levels every 6 hours, there will be loss of pressure, unless you have pulled the EAS relay or disabled the EAS in some other way.
 
Thanks @Datatek, I pulled the relay.

There is deffo a leak in the line between the valve block and the tank. My exhaust was blowing a bit last year, I've since replaced the exhaust, but maybe it weakened the air line and now it's got a little hole or something. Either way there's a hole there somewhere, and I can't find it!!

I have replaced the air line between tank and block and it's all working correctly now.

The replacement air line goes forward from the tank, following the brake pipes, and across the back of the engine bay. It's a bit temporary, but I'll see about replacing it properly when I've got a bit more time......Ha!
 
Thanks @Datatek, I pulled the relay.

There is deffo a leak in the line between the valve block and the tank. My exhaust was blowing a bit last year, I've since replaced the exhaust, but maybe it weakened the air line and now it's got a little hole or something. Either way there's a hole there somewhere, and I can't find it!!

I have replaced the air line between tank and block and it's all working correctly now.

The replacement air line goes forward from the tank, following the brake pipes, and across the back of the engine bay. It's a bit temporary, but I'll see about replacing it properly when I've got a bit more time......Ha!

That is the way Land rover should have done it. The standard run is ridiculous.
 
They must have had a reason. To avoid hot points near the exhaust? Worried plastic would cook and go brittle by the engine?
The way it has been run, it's actually closer to the exhaust for much of the run. I'd guess that as the EAS box is on the left side, it was easier and of course cheaper to run 3 pipes together.
 
Weldone on your fix that's all I did was run the pipe that way it's been ok for about 6 months now and that includes a run to Scotland from Kent sorry bout delay in reply been away with work
 
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