EAS KICKER LITE for p38

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al-one-arm

Well-Known Member
Posts
409
Location
burnham-on-sea,somerset
for over 15 years my car when standing still engine not running, has had a lean to passenger side, it happened after the garage fitted new height sensors the apprentice fitted the sensors to the wrong sides. then played with the laptop, when he was put right and the right sensors were put on the right sides. i noticed the slant, but they said it was normal to counteract my 18 stone sitting in the drivers side, and would not adjust it.. will plugging in the EAS kicker lite put this right?
 
Air suspension should sit level, regardless what weight is where, that's the whole point.
I thought the kicker reset faults but i may be wrong. You need to read the height sensors and measure the height, adjusting accordingly within limits.
There's free software of you don't have diagnostics but you'll need to make/buy a cable
 
for over 15 years my car when standing still engine not running, has had a lean to passenger side, it happened after the garage fitted new height sensors the apprentice fitted the sensors to the wrong sides. then played with the laptop, when he was put right and the right sensors were put on the right sides. i noticed the slant, but they said it was normal to counteract my 18 stone sitting in the drivers side, and would not adjust it.. will plugging in the EAS kicker lite put this right?

You need calibration blocks from Wammers how to and a copy of EAS Unlock and a cable from Datatek. Then calibrate it. Or a Nanocom.
 
i have put up with it for 15 years, now that i have the option of plugging in a kicker i was just wondering whether this would put it right, i do not have any of the laptop options, never needed them its only been plugged in once for a c.p.s sensor fault. is the height differance from side to side not considered a fault
 
The EAS kicker will not clear the lean it will only clear faults, the heights need to be sorted out with diag or RSW software which is free but you will need a cable.
 
Depends what they did when they replaced the sensors. It doesn't like each side being too far adrift of each other. In some instances it is better to reseat the height sensor or even bend the arm ever so slightly so that when at the correct level height the bit counts each side of the axle are within 2. On mine I just put in the average as a bit or two doesn't really make that much difference to the height. Go outside the default ranges and it will start acting odd or throwing faults.
 
You need calibration blocks from Wammers how to and a copy of EAS Unlock and a cable from Datatek. Then calibrate it. Or a Nanocom.
Absolutely no need for calibration blocks, just a measuring stick with the heights marked on it. No need to go crawling under the car. Bending arms on the sensors is a bodge and unlikely to lead to the car being level.
 
i might have another go at the garage when they change the radius arm bushes again only this time with poly bushes when i decide which colour poly bushes to use?

Use the proper P38 bushes. Poly will give worse ride & by many reports probably not last as long.
 
Use the proper P38 bushes. Poly will give worse ride & by many reports probably not last as long.
i tell them to use genuine bushes,they fit them and 6 weeks later, its another advisory on the M.O.T,.they fit new bushes, next M.O.T. its another advisory, they blame cheap chinese rubber., thats why i was going to try poly bushes, they say i should never have to change them again.
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i tell them to use genuine bushes,they fit them and 6 weeks later, its another advisory on the M.O.T,.they fit new bushes, next M.O.T. its another advisory, they blame cheap chinese rubber., thats why i was going to try poly bushes, they say i should never have to change them again.
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If you're just changing the front hockey stick bushes, the axle ones, then go for poly, I did and never noticed any difference in ride if fitting OEM then a tapered fitting tool and press advised.
 
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