EAS Fault & Lighting

Hi Guys

Having just purchased a second hand P38, which I loved when I drove it, 24hrs down the line I was due to start on a long journey and encountered the following error message 'EAS Fault 35 mhp limit' (or words to that effect. I called out the guy who I had purchased the car off (who was a mechanic by trade), and he was totally baffled, telling me that he had not ever had a problem with the vehicle in the 2mths he'd had it etc etc etc. Anyhow, to cut a long story short, he put his portable diagnostic machine on the vehicle and the message came up as FL valve sticking. So taking it apart and blowing air through he tried and tried everything to no avail. Whilst he was working on the valve block, I noticed, and commented, that there was a tiny rubber ring sitting there, and asked if it was important. Oh no came the reply, that was sitting in the valve block tray. HA! on googling this fault later it indicated that these rubber rings WHERE part of the valve mechanism so the guy obviously didn't have a clue. Aside from that he advised that it would be best to purchase a new/ebay valve block and get someone to fit it and he would pay for the part. My question therefore is, is this actually the case or should a be able to take the vehicle to a 'decent' mechanic as it may be a simple fault and not as complex as this novice says it is.

The other query, yes there's more lololol. The vehicle has an HID system set of headlights, they are amazing, BUT when I switch from full beam to dipped, ALL the dashboard blacks out and the car beeps at me as if it doesn't llike it too much. Could this just be an electrical prob ie a crossed wire.

All comments will be greatfully received as I know how great you guys are on here as you used to help me with my Freelander

PS: It has a NEW Air Suspension pump btw

If you can handle spanners, it's easy enough to overhaul the valve block, cost about £15 for the "O" ring set & diaphragm. You will need the EAS software and cable to clear the faults and unlock the EAS.

Thanks DT will give the information to a guy I know who's a mechanic. Knew you guys would have the answer

Sue1962 said:

Thanks DT will give the information to a guy I know who's a mechanic. Knew you guys would have the answer

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Valve block most likely needs looking at now the fumble fingers has been at it. However that fault is unlikely to have been valve block, valves very rarely if ever stick open, more likely a leak or a sensor glitch giving the same reading in several positions.

The headlights on a P38 are powered from the BECM (body electronic control module) through power transistors. The BECM detects the power taken by the bulbs and can show you if you have a blown bulb.
I tried fitting HID headlights and got fault codes and other weird lights flashing up on the dash as I changed from dip to main and back again. As the BECM is essential to the car, expensive to replace or repair and, obviously, is getting old and probably not as resilient as it once was I decided not to chance it and went back to halogen headlights.
If I want more light I'd add a couple of driving lights.

Thanks Wammers. I'm taking it to a LR/RR mechanic local to me who is going to put it on a diagnostic machine for me and will start from there.

'Fumble Fingers' as you called him, keeps suggesting that I buy a valve block off ebay (he's seen one on there) and he will pay towards it. However, if it's got a new air suspension pump which I know it has, then am somewhat reluctant to put a second hand valve block in that may cause more problems.

I keep being told by everyone (well this end lolol) 'Oh if you gonna keep the car then if I were you I would take out the suspension pump and put springs in etc etc etc' I don't want to do that.

Thanks Dogsbody - will bear that in mind. As I said I love the car and want o use it for towing my horse trailer so it will be a workhorse (excuse the punn) and cannot afford for it to be off the road too often.

Sue1962 said:

Thanks Wammers. I'm taking it to a LR/RR mechanic local to me who is going to put it on a diagnostic machine for me and will start from there.

'Fumble Fingers' as you called him, keeps suggesting that I buy a valve block off ebay (he's seen one on there) and he will pay towards it. However, if it's got a new air suspension pump which I know it has, then am somewhat reluctant to put a second hand valve block in that may cause more problems.

I keep being told by everyone (well this end lolol) 'Oh if you gonna keep the car then if I were you I would take out the suspension pump and put springs in etc etc etc' I don't want to do that.

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The only problems you get with the valve block are weeping O rings that have gone hard, but not really a big issue. Diaphragm valve failing a few bob to replace, and worn/damaged NRV nose guides that stop the O rings from seating. A lot of things are blamed on valve block that are nothing to do with it. Changing to springs is a really bad idea.

Sue1962 said:

Thanks Wammers. I'm taking it to a LR/RR mechanic local to me who is going to put it on a diagnostic machine for me and will start from there.

'Fumble Fingers' as you called him, keeps suggesting that I buy a valve block off ebay (he's seen one on there) and he will pay towards it. However, if it's got a new air suspension pump which I know it has, then am somewhat reluctant to put a second hand valve block in that may cause more problems.

I keep being told by everyone (well this end lolol) 'Oh if you gonna keep the car then if I were you I would take out the suspension pump and put springs in etc etc etc' I don't want to do that.

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If you are stuck with the valve block, I can re-condition one for you on an exchange basis. PM me if you want more info. Once sorted, the EAS is good.

Datatek have pm's you

Wammers, as I said, am not wanting OR planning to change to springs

Just want to be able to drive my 'mean machine' as my 14yr old calls it

Well just had to tell you guys, got the EAS sorted. Took it to a brilliant RR/LR mechanic that I discovered on line, local to where I live, he put it on the diagnostic and within an hour sorted the problem. Even though it was a new Air Compressor, (supposedly) it was found to be faulty. Fitted a new one then and there and all hunky dory again yipppeeee. He took the other one back so I got the 'exchange' price on the newly fitted item, bargain!!!

He also checked all the bags etc and told me they were all fine and that now it was working properly it should be fine. He id point out that I need a new radiator shroud but have now sourced that on ebay at £35 so am well pleased.

Thanks again guys for all your expert advice as always.

Good news, thanks for posting the result.