EAS Compressor - seized
- Thread starter domino
- Start date
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PPP38vouge
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- deddington, oxfordshire
I think that the relay you refer too only comes into play once the car has been switched off. The car wakes up every few hours and does its self levelling thing, I have stopped that happening by simply replacing the relay with a standard 4 pin relay like the yellow ones in your fuse box, it stops the car from waking and trying to self level, I can leave mine for a week and it does not drop plus your half way there to spot if you have any leaky pipes or bags, it has no bad effects on the EAS when the car is being used and if you need to connect ant diagnostics just simply put original relay back in.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
It delays power on to the the EAS on ignition turn on and controls the levelling when the ignition is off.
Changing it for a standard relay is not a good idea as the car could end up at an odd angle when parked.
Hmm, okay.
I asked as it seems even when I pump the car up manually to the right level with nanocom, while driving on the roads here in Edinburgh it does sink again but not just one corner - the whole thing seems to eventually level off on the way down.
I asked as it seems even when I pump the car up manually to the right level with nanocom, while driving on the roads here in Edinburgh it does sink again but not just one corner - the whole thing seems to eventually level off on the way down.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
It will do unless you pull the relay. Pull the relay after switching off to discover the leaky corner. If all still go down then I think you need to have a look at the valve block.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
The delay timer relay supplies power to the EAS ECU when the ignition is switched on. And at various times with the ignition off for leveling purposes. It has nothing to do with raising or lowering the vehicle whilst driving. If you are blowing the bags up manually and a corner is dropping you have a leak. It will however level the car each time a door is opened and closed even if the bags have been manually inflated. If you manually inflate the bags you need to remove the delay relay to cut power to the ECU or each time a door is opened and closed the system will lower to try and match the level of the leaking corner.
Thanks wammers however, I don't know if you recall but the door/boot opening cut off isn't enabled on my car. You can open any door or the boot and it doesn't affect the EAS in any way - it appears to be disabled in the BECM.
When I come to a halt and switch off, the car does settle down to the lowest corner as normal which is the behaviour I'd expect obviously. What I don't fully understand is why, while driving and having inflated the bags manually to the correct height, it will gradually drop all corners, again while driving. It never gets quite down to the bump stops but it does come close.
I'm currently awaiting delivery of a new compressor and the EAS>Dryer pipe to cure those issues but if there's something else then the compressor aint gonna last long so I'd rather figure it out and fix it now.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Wait till you get your bits then come back with what is happening after that. Apart from checking for obvious leaks you can't really do anything if the full system is not up and running. There are two distinct parts to the EAS the pressure side and the distribution side. Unless you have the pressure side working you can't really test the other part of the system.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Just for info i had a problem where on occasions on switching on i got slow 35 MPH message and EAS fault. On switching off and back on it went away or if i just drove off cleared itself after a few yards. I swapped my delay relay for one off eBay. Not had the problem since. When i looked at my delay relay i found a couple of dry joints on the circuit board. So soldered them up but as yet have not put it back in to find if that was the problem. But you can bet that it was.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Also temporarily replaced the block>dryer pipe with replacement pipe from a local engineering company. Bright red in the engine bay and not in any way shaped or formed but it has definitely fixed the previous leaky one!
New compressor was sent out to me today so hopefully I'll receive that tomorrow. Then it's just a case of sorting out the lump running and this EAS nightmare!
New compressor was sent out to me today so hopefully I'll receive that tomorrow. Then it's just a case of sorting out the lump running and this EAS nightmare!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
If you inflate manually and leave the EAS active, it will drop. Either pull the fuse or remove the timer relay, then it will only go down if there is a leak.
