EAS Compressor - seized

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domino

domino

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,014
Location
Edinburgh
Allo all,

bought a handful of the refurb kits to sort out the spare compressors I have. Sorted one but the second one seems to be a problem.

Lots of black dust inside (on the piston, on the liner, on counterweight) and I can't manually rotate the piston/weight to get it off. I'm guessing it's somewhat burnt out or so. Is there any point in trying to fix this or is this one completely kaput?

Cheers.
 
domino said:
Can the bushes just be replaced then? Haven't stripped that end on any compressor yet.
Click to expand...

Yes if you can get any. Just measure them and look for a supplier. But i couldn't be arsed to be honest. If the brushes are knackered the oilite bearing will be past it's best.
 
This was actually a new oem one, about 8-9 months old. Was in use about 6 months or so in total.

Might strip the one I just pulled out of the car too and see what's going on with that also. Have noticed the two older ones are a bit noisier though, almost sounding like they have a metal on metal knocking.
 
domino said:
This was actually a new oem one, about 8-9 months old. Was in use about 6 months or so in total.

Might strip the one I just pulled out of the car too and see what's going on with that also. Have noticed the two older ones are a bit noisier though, almost sounding like they have a metal on metal knocking.
Click to expand...

The clip holding the oilite bearing at the brush end comes adrift and the armature wobbles about like a whippets dick. That is what usually causes the noise.
 
On a similar note... what would cause the compressor to run and stop, randomly, despite the correct height not yet being achieved and the compressor not being anywhere near quite warm, never mind hot?
 
domino said:
On a similar note... what would cause the compressor to run and stop, randomly, despite the correct height not yet being achieved and the compressor not being anywhere near quite warm, never mind hot?
Click to expand...

Some would say driver pack, but as no part of the compressor circuit runs through it i can't see how unless a fault in it cause the ECU to get upset via signal feedback. Maybe a bad connection on the pressure switch wires in the plug they go into. Bad contacts in the plugs and sockets under the compressor and in general in the EAS box can give all sorts of indefinable problems. Keith will tell you his compressor runs randomly when the bonnet is open but not when it's shut. Figure that one out.
 
domino said:
On a similar note... what would cause the compressor to run and stop, randomly, despite the correct height not yet being achieved and the compressor not being anywhere near quite warm, never mind hot?
Click to expand...
If that happens with no error code, I'd be looking at the connectors in the EAS box and the 2 earth points on the inner wing between the EAS box and the air filter.
Driver pack faults usually produce the "Pressure Signal Constantly High" fault but other fault codes are possible.
 
I have the 'fixed' driver pack that I can swap in if all else fails but I want to do it via a process of elimination. I'll check all the connectors tomorrow. I just wish the inhibit system worked (doors, boot etc) so I could properly test stuff. At the moment there's no way for me to fill the tank without any levelling.

Have noticed some more recent oddities though;

Sometime you can feel a noticeable 'jump' from the rear end when it's adjusting up or down as though it's not a smooth transition. Like its caught on something and suddenly manages to push through.

Have seen nanocom saying the thermal switch is hot...when it clearly isn't (only on this particular compressor)

Watching the heights live on nanocom, it'll sometimes rise quite a bit above the requested height...then drop but it's not all corners. Usually more the backend than the front.

Anyway. I'll be checking connectors tomorrow. Hopefully my new eas dryer pipes arrive soon so I can replaced the bodged ones!
 
domino said:
I have the 'fixed' driver pack that I can swap in if all else fails but I want to do it via a process of elimination. I'll check all the connectors tomorrow. I just wish the inhibit system worked (doors, boot etc) so I could properly test stuff. At the moment there's no way for me to fill the tank without any levelling.

Have noticed some more recent oddities though;

Sometime you can feel a noticeable 'jump' from the rear end when it's adjusting up or down as though it's not a smooth transition. Like its caught on something and suddenly manages to push through.

Have seen nanocom saying the thermal switch is hot...when it clearly isn't (only on this particular compressor)

Watching the heights live on nanocom, it'll sometimes rise quite a bit above the requested height...then drop but it's not all corners. Usually more the backend than the front.

Anyway. I'll be checking connectors tomorrow. Hopefully my new eas dryer pipes arrive soon so I can replaced the bodged ones!
Click to expand...

Rear always goes up first then front then will settle to standard. That is quite normal. That is so headlamps don't dazzle. You may have a dry solder joint on thermal switch or the circuit board. Sorted a few problems with mine by soldering a couple of dry joints on the delay relay circuit board.
 
Last edited:
Delay relay circuit board being under the passenger seat yeah?

Will strip the compressor and have a looksee.
 
Another question... how does one reassemble a compressor and get the brushes aligned correctly? Can't get at them from the other end..and I'm not sure chop sticks poking in would do it lol
 
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