DSE project information

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the first thing i said is decat then egr delete which reduces back pressure.
gates valve stops waste gate creep so no loss of boost as the actuator starts to open at lower boost pressures, untill the valve opens at set pressure.
all help spool quicker and engine more reponsive.
so if you
remove cat
remove egr or blank
performance air filter
set boost back to standard or just above
then have remapped so more fuel and would compliment the previous mods
equals more power!
any further bigger intercooler more boost remap
pretty standard diesel tuning steps.
at no point did i say more boost would give low down power they were just the first steps make it a hell of a lot more responsive and also in a cost effective way also in steps leading to a remap or chip to compliment the first mods
 
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6704nathan said:
the first thing i said is decat then egr delete which reduces back pressure.
gates valve stops waste gate creep so no loss of boost as the actuator starts to open at lower boost pressures, untill the valve opens at set pressure.
all help spool quicker and engine more reponsive.
so if you
remove cat
remove egr or blank
performance air filter
set boost back to standard or just above
then have remapped so more fuel and would compliment the previous mods
equals more power!
any further bigger intercooler more boost remap
pretty standard diesel tuning steps.
at no point did i say more boost would give low down power they were just the first steps make it a hell of a lot more responsive and also in a cost effective way also in steps leading to a remap or chip to compliment the first mods
Click to expand...

Think you have been reading to many books. :):)
 
not at all my old sleeper of a rover 25 diesel rolling roaded at 158 bhp with custom remap!
different injectors all of the above mods i listed for the p38!
no books trial and error to see what works and what didnt.
plus i like a good discussion once in a while!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
6704nathan said:
not at all my old sleeper of a rover 25 diesel rolling roaded at 158 bhp with custom remap!
different injectors all of the above mods i listed for the p38!
no books trial and error to see what works and what didnt.
plus i like a good discussion once in a while!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

If that's what makes you happy no problem. Maybe in a few years time you will be saying the same as me that it's too much hassle. Owt for a quiet life these days. Built an RS turbo engine for my lad a few months ago, he wanted all sorts of **** on it. But i refused and he got a standard one. It won't blow up quite as soon that way.:):)
 
wammers said:
If that's what makes you happy no problem. Maybe in a few years time you will be saying the same as me that it's too much hassle. Owt for a quiet life these days. Built an RS turbo engine for my lad a few months ago, he wanted all sorts of **** on it. But i refused and he got a standard one. It won't blow up quite as soon that way.:):)
Click to expand...

i did say my old sleeper! 2 kids etc she is long gone and it was very reliable still run rovers ( diesel that is ) as they are cheap and very reliable and the 45 or 400 is a honda civic in disguise!
 
HAHAHAHA! Performance air filters. People who think they help make me laugh. Oh free tip. If your vehicle has a MAF, NEVER EVER fit an air filter that uses oils as the oils can coat the hot wire which insulates it causing it to run lean and is not unknown to lead to engine detonation. But your choice at the end of the day, if you want it to sound louder then go for it.

I have seen many back to back tests on a dyno using multiple vehicles with standard air filters and performance air filters. Most of the times the only difference is noise. However there are situations where you'll lose power over standard equipment.
 
Bix said:
HAHAHAHA! Performance air filters. People who think they help make me laugh. Oh free tip. If your vehicle has a MAF, NEVER EVER fit an air filter that uses oils as the oils can coat the hot wire which insulates it causing it to run lean and is not unknown to lead to engine detonation. But your choice at the end of the day, if you want it to sound louder then go for it.

I have seen many back to back tests on a dyno using multiple vehicles with standard air filters and performance air filters. Most of the times the only difference is noise. However there are situations where you'll lose power over standard equipment.
Click to expand...


It's the noise that makes the numpty's think it goes faster, twas the same when I was a lad, take the baffles out of the silencer on the moped and immediately think it was faster. Dream on.
 
Datatek said:
It's the noise that makes the numpty's think it goes faster, twas the same when I was a lad, take the baffles out of the silencer on the moped and immediately think it was faster. Dream on.
Click to expand...

Keith i recall the effort put in to get 15 to 25 BHP on a rally engine in the old days. One common denominator was the more power you got the more fuel they used. These days muppets think they can plug a chip in get 50 BHP, better torque and better fuel consumption all in one go. It beggars belief anyone could be that stupid. Performance air filters, well i'm not saying anything about them they are not worth mentioning.
 
Moving on from the slight hijacking lol.

Boost gauge acquired, have a 0 - 30psi gauge, which will be cut into the MAP sensor hose.
Ordered a EGR remover and a digital thermometer to use for inlet temp. This will be used for exploring a few future things. An will be joined by an exhaust temp when I can find one that can cope.
Found I need to get my r/h step welded as the rear bracket has pretty much gone to rust.
Next job is to investigate the induction system to see if any little refinements can be added with a standard filter in place.
As stated before, this is all purely experimentation for me out of personal interest. I don't wanna do anything daft etc...
Can update further if people are interested
 
langley said:
Moving on from the slight hijacking lol.

Boost gauge acquired, have a 0 - 30psi gauge, which will be cut into the MAP sensor hose.
Ordered a EGR remover and a digital thermometer to use for inlet temp. This will be used for exploring a few future things. An will be joined by an exhaust temp when I can find one that can cope.
Found I need to get my r/h step welded as the rear bracket has pretty much gone to rust.
Next job is to investigate the induction system to see if any little refinements can be added with a standard filter in place.
As stated before, this is all purely experimentation for me out of personal interest. I don't wanna do anything daft etc...
Can update further if people are interested
Click to expand...

EGR remover is a waste of cash, just blank it with a coin or make sure it's shut and remove the VAC hose. As the induction is pressurised by the turbo and has no throttle there is bugger all you can do that will make any difference.
 
It would appear i should clarify, i meant before turbo. Which usually can be optimised slightly if your willing to play with it. Its all experimentation after all.

I dont want to blank the EGR off, as i would like to keep the part in working order just incase its ever needed again.

I would also imagine with the age of the parts on the vehicle, there would also be some optimisation on the current vehicle performance that can be made after the turbo. As no doubt there will be some leaks etc, plus, a fresh set of hoses and some better quality clips here an there will smarten the old girl up a bit.
 
Why don't you get some go faster stripes for the bonnet and a Chrome GT badge for the boot. That will have much the same effect as your tuning. If you want a bit more power fit a chip. Make sure the intercooler is clean internally, fit a new standard air filter and get the pump timing checked to take up chain stretch. Have the injectors serviced. Make sure the MAP sensor is internally clean and the hose to it is sound, also that the manifold and EGR valve are internally clean and the feed to the MAP sensor is not restricted. You should then have a very drivable vehicle. No need for silly boost gauges they are not required.
 
Saint.V8 said:
:p - but I need to have something to munch on while this is batted about again!!
Click to expand...

Typical exchange between the average hypochondriac car tweaker and his doctor.

"Well Mr ______________ (add name as required) i am pleased to say you have nothing wrong with you at all that a course of vitamins won't sort out.".

Mr ___________ (Add name as required). "Sorry doctor you are wrong i have a serious heart problem and want you to fit a pacemaker and heart monitor gauge immediately", I also want you to amputate my legs at the knees and fit some of them springs like what that bloke in limpricks had, so i can run faster.

Doctor. "But there is nothing wrong with you".

Mr ___________ Add name as required. "It's my body and i can experiment if i want to"

Doctor. "Fook off idiot".

For a different insight, please substitute expert mechanic in place of Doctor. And 'Your car' in place of 'You'. Also 'my car' in place of 'my body'. Other substitutions may be made at the readers discretion.
 
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May i request why the belittling/ rudeness etc?

Ive made no outrageous claims, or professed to any huge knowledge, the like of which has been seen before on here..

Im just detailing what im up too, in case anyone is interested and seeing where it goes..

Dont see the big issue really.:mad:
 
langley said:
May i request why the belittling/ rudeness etc?

Ive made no outrageous claims, or professed to any huge knowledge, the like of which has been seen before on here..

Im just detailing what im up too, in case anyone is interested and seeing where it goes..

Dont see the big issue really.:mad:
Click to expand...

It's joke mate, you have to be able to roll with the punches on here. I find your efforts silly but that's just me. I have given you my views and advice you don't have to take it. That is up to you.
 
Take it and run. He charges out of the arse normally. I still can't sit down. :(
 
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