P38A DSE Buyers guide please?

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cbv8

cbv8

Member
Posts
25
Location
Tamworth
Hi All,
I am going to see a remapped 2000 P38 DSE automatic with 140k but has no service history is there anything i should be aware of before purchasing other than the obvious engine overheating/smoking, transmission slipping clunks eas dropping hevac probs and o ring leaks? thanks in advance;)
 
If you own that P6 then I guess you know rovers;).
The P38 is slightly different but you seem to have most of the issues on your check list.
All I can say is make sure everything works on whatever button. Wet/damp carpets?;).

In general brakes are usually good, give the pedal a few dabs and listen for the pump kicking in.
Battery drain/condition, difficult to check when looking.
Thankfully rust in P38s is not an issue, usually:)

I don’t know the diesel so can’t comment on engine. But chipped/remapped how’s the gearbox?

J
 
A remapped M51 is likely to eat the ZF HP22 gearbox so check for over revving on shifts especially if regular oil changes have not been done.
The brake pump should run about every 3 or 4 brake pedal presses.
Check the carpet underlay in drivers footwell for damp/coolant.
Check if the spare wheel well is full of water.
Check the aircon works.
Check the windows go all the way up without juddering at the top indicating a worn regulator.
As said above check all buttons work.
 
marjon said:
If you own that P6 then I guess you know rovers;).
The P38 is slightly different but you seem to have most of the issues on your check list.
All I can say is make sure everything works on whatever button. Wet/damp carpets?;).

In general brakes are usually good, give the pedal a few dabs and listen for the pump kicking in.
Battery drain/condition, difficult to check when looking.
Thankfully rust in P38s is not an issue, usually:)

I don’t know the diesel so can’t comment on engine. But chipped/remapped how’s the gearbox?

J
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies i have had a few P38s in the past but never a diesel and touch wood never had any issues mind you i think i only owned them for about six months at most i sold a 4.0 lpg to my inlaw the only problems he had in the two years of ownership was a duff battery and key fob. The only thing that worries me about the M51 is head problems and now transmission ie due to remap but the seller said it runs great and no overheating or transmission issues.
 
cbv8 said:
Thanks for the replies i have had a few P38s in the past but never a diesel and touch wood never had any issues mind you i think i only owned them for about six months at most i sold a 4.0 lpg to my inlaw the only problems he had in the two years of ownership was a duff battery and key fob. The only thing that worries me about the M51 is head problems and now transmission ie due to remap but the seller said it runs great and no overheating or transmission issues.
Click to expand...
Head failure is not that common and I suspect almost always down to repeat overheats due to the unreliable viscous fan.
A new head could be found last time I looked for about €800.
 
Datatek said:
Head failure is not that common and I suspect almost always down to repeat overheats due to the unreliable viscous fan.
A new head could be found last time I looked for about €800.
Click to expand...
Timing chain stretch is another problem with the M51, this throws the modulation out making hot starts difficult. Taking a Nanocom with you and checking for faults would be a good idea.
 
Datatek said:
Timing chain stretch is another problem with the M51, this throws the modulation out making hot starts difficult. Taking a Nanocom with you and checking for faults would be a good idea.
Click to expand...
Thank you all good info there is there i must also say that i do many trips to Devon a year a 400 mile round trip and Telegraph Hill is a real test for most cars! Will this regular hill climb wreck the head i wonder:( any particular nanocom i should buy baring in mind electronics or gizmos are a bit beyond me so a plug and play would be good ;)
 
Last edited:
cbv8 said:
Thank you all good info there is there i must also say that i do many trips to Devon a year a 400 mile round trip and Telegraph is a real test for most cars! Will this regular hill climb wreck the head i wonder:( any particular nanocom i should buy baring in mind electronics or gizmos are a bit beyond me so a plug and play would be good ;)
Click to expand...
Mine cope well enough with the climbs in France even with a caravan or another P38 on a trailer on the hook. I have binned the viscous fan on both mine and use the aircon fans for cooling, more reliable and quieter with a quicker warm up in winter. I doubt climbs will cause head failure as long as the cooling system is in good order unless you are very unlucky. I have done a trip to the UK with the caravan venturing up as far as Holmfirth.
Nanocom is the best P38 diagnostic tool and IMO is fairly easy to use.
 
Datatek said:
Mine cope well enough with the climbs in France even with a caravan or another P38 on a trailer on the hook. I have binned the viscous fan on both mine and use the aircon fans for cooling, more reliable and quieter with a quicker warm up in winter. I doubt climbs will cause head failure as long as the cooling system is in good order unless you are very unlucky. I have done a trip to the UK with the caravan venturing up as far as Holmfirth.
Nanocom is the best P38 diagnostic tool and IMO is fairly easy to use.
Click to expand...
Thanks again can you recommend any particular nanocom please?
 
if your looking at a diesel check to make sure if the EGR valve is still fitted as this is now a mot failure if been removed
have a good look at the fuel injection pump make sure you can't see no obvious leaks
 
From personal experience..
Steering ball joints,
Axle pivot ball joints,
Front diff,
Viscous coupling in the transfer box,
Propshaft,
Cracks in the top of the radiator,
Radiator hoses,
Fuse box burning smells,
Suspension airbag cracks,
Shock oil leaks,
Engine or gearbox leaks,
Play in the steering box,
Uneven wear on the front and rear tyres,
Fuel cap opens on the button,
All windows and sinn roof,
Fan wooshes on cold start up and then backs off,
Any leaks around the water pump behind the fan,
Coolant around the bottom of the rad or coolant tank,
Front diff for noises on a test drive over 30mph,
Wheel bearings front or rear.
Oil leaks around the gearbox rad under the front bumper passenger side,
Oil leaks around the intercooler,
All doors lock and unlock, fob or key!
No warning signs on the hevac heater control panel,
Abs warnings,
3-4 presses of the brake pedal before pump runs again,
Unscrew the little filter on the suspension block and listen if the pump is on and off to much,
Height of the car constantly dancing up and down,
Headlight wash wipers working
Heated seats,
Coolant colour for contamination,
Alternator belt and pulley condition.
Most you know being a car enthusiast;)
 
Mark Piercy said:
From personal experience..
Steering ball joints,
Axle pivot ball joints,
Front diff,
Viscous coupling in the transfer box,
Propshaft,
Cracks in the top of the radiator,
Radiator hoses,
Fuse box burning smells,
Suspension airbag cracks,
Shock oil leaks,
Engine or gearbox leaks,
Play in the steering box,
Uneven wear on the front and rear tyres,
Fuel cap opens on the button,
All windows and sinn roof,
Fan wooshes on cold start up and then backs off,
Any leaks around the water pump behind the fan,
Coolant around the bottom of the rad or coolant tank,
Front diff for noises on a test drive over 30mph,
Wheel bearings front or rear.
Oil leaks around the gearbox rad under the front bumper passenger side,
Oil leaks around the intercooler,
All doors lock and unlock, fob or key!
No warning signs on the hevac heater control panel,
Abs warnings,
3-4 presses of the brake pedal before pump runs again,
Unscrew the little filter on the suspension block and listen if the pump is on and off to much,
Height of the car constantly dancing up and down,
Headlight wash wipers working
Heated seats,
Coolant colour for contamination,
Alternator belt and pulley condition.
Most you know being a car enthusiast;)
Click to expand...

But apart from thato_O.

You missed to ask if it has been driven in a deep puddle lately:p:D:D.

J
 
Mark Piercy said:
From personal experience..
Steering ball joints,
Axle pivot ball joints,
Front diff,
Viscous coupling in the transfer box,
Propshaft,
Cracks in the top of the radiator,
Radiator hoses,
Fuse box burning smells,
Suspension airbag cracks,
Shock oil leaks,
Engine or gearbox leaks,
Play in the steering box,
Uneven wear on the front and rear tyres,
Fuel cap opens on the button,
All windows and sinn roof,
Fan wooshes on cold start up and then backs off,
Any leaks around the water pump behind the fan,
Coolant around the bottom of the rad or coolant tank,
Front diff for noises on a test drive over 30mph,
Wheel bearings front or rear.
Oil leaks around the gearbox rad under the front bumper passenger side,
Oil leaks around the intercooler,
All doors lock and unlock, fob or key!
No warning signs on the hevac heater control panel,
Abs warnings,
3-4 presses of the brake pedal before pump runs again,
Unscrew the little filter on the suspension block and listen if the pump is on and off to much,
Height of the car constantly dancing up and down,
Headlight wash wipers working
Heated seats,
Coolant colour for contamination,
Alternator belt and pulley condition.
Most you know being a car enthusiast;)
Click to expand...
:eek::eek::eek:
 
And look at the rear brake pipes if they have not been replaced they Should be as the rust out over the rear chassis cross member, even the newest of p38`s is 20 years old
 
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