Drum brake setup….

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
flat

flat

Well-Known Member
Posts
9,075
Location
Far away from you!!
Not a series Land Rover, but a Sankey trailer of the same age.

rod operated drum brakes.

many one got any tips on setting them up? What’s the best way to ensure the shoes are parallel to the drums?

I know how to adjust them, but for the love of me I can’t get one side to bite as hard as the other… all’s goes are the right way round abs all the parts are working (I.e not seized) drums are round and shoes have life in them, and aren’t contaminated. So my ‘guess’ is that one set of shoes aren’t parallel to the drum so isnt giving full friction contact.

anyone got any tips for general drum brake setup?

thanks all

ed
 
All I have ever done with any drum brake is wind the adjuster until wheel locks up, then pump pedal a couple of times, then slacken of the adjuster until the wheel rotates freely, I have found with the series if you leave the shoes rubbing slightly tthe brakes seem bettter, ie not so much free play.
 
ON trailers it is normal for there to be a " balance bar " whether operated by cables or rods. The cables or rods from the brakes attach each end of the bar and the main pull rod to the hitch unit attaches at the centre, Do you have one on the Sankey ?
 
Have you tried bonding some thin Emery to inside of drum and lapping/ bedding in each shoes to fit so they are contacting over full area , although drums are perfectly round the shoes may not be
 
tottot said:
ON trailers it is normal for there to be a " balance bar " whether operated by cables or rods. The cables or rods from the brakes attach each end of the bar and the main pull rod to the hitch unit attaches at the centre, Do you have one on the Sankey ?
Click to expand...
Yes that’s exactly the Sankey setup, one rod from the hitch, to a central fulcrum thay splits off 2 both wheels
 
Take all (ALL) the pins out the rods and the pivot on the axle too and that lever under the front of the tub, that can put a side force on the rod too. Clean them all up. Take the wedges out the brake actuators and clean them up. Its a right faff (did it recently) but the system is very sensitive to friction so you have to do every part. Once its all clean and lubed it pulls evenly but I now "exercise" the brake lever every week to keep it free, I don't want to spend another day on it when it siezes!
 
rob1miles said:
Take all (ALL) the pins out the rods and the pivot on the axle too and that lever under the front of the tub, that can put a side force on the rod too. Clean them all up. Take the wedges out the brake actuators and clean them up. Its a right faff (did it recently) but the system is very sensitive to friction so you have to do every part. Once its all clean and lubed it pulls evenly but I now "exercise" the brake lever every week to keep it free, I don't want to spend another day on it when it siezes!
Click to expand...

i did all that a few months ago, it’s had a full strip, and I mean full, strip and rebuild. Check my thread on the rebuild :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Front drum issue
Replies
2
Views
556
steve2286w
steve2286w
S
brake drums not fitting
Replies
4
Views
469
steve2286w
steve2286w
S
brake spring
Replies
2
Views
556
Bobsticle
Bobsticle
Paxmanmerv
These brakes have got me scratchiung my head..
2
Replies
25
Views
3K
Tall Ratbag
T
G
Brake servo on a 2A Diesel ?
Replies
11
Views
690
grewth
G
Back
Top