Drove through 2 feet of water, next day, clunking/sputtering when turning left/right slowly?

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mantrid

Member
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61
Hello all, hope you can help.

DISCOVERY 4 TDV6 3.0 AUTO (2010)

We live out in the sticks, last week or so it ****ed down and there was a flood at the bottom of both sides of a hill, I drove through it.

I'd estimate it was about 1.5ft to 2ft deep, was fine afterwards drove to the shops then home, but the next day when I was reversing out and turning to the left/right I heard a horrible cluncking or sputtering sound which is worse the slower you drive, only happens when you turn and it gets worse the more you turn the wheel toward full lock, you can really feel it on the inside of the car.

I changed the oil (from the top with a vacuum pump), there are no splits or oil leaks that I can see on the boots/suspension arms, I recently changed the fuel filter and I didn't put the shield back on as I was testing for leaks because I couldn't be sure it was locked in place, don't think it was leaking because a guy at the garage said if it was the car wouldn't even start?

I checked the engine intake air filter it was dry as a bone.

I was thinking maybe water got into the fuel filter, ordered a new one, going to fit it today, but surely if it was that, it wouldn't just happen when turning?

Do you guys have any ideas, I am really stumped by it?

Thanks in advance guys, Mantrid!
 
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sierrafery said:
Hi, you should say what modell/year Disco and if it's manual or auto

which filter you mean?
Click to expand...

Edited OP message to make it clearer, thanks buddy, it's a discovery 4 TDV6 3.0 (2010).

The filter I changed was the fuel filter underneath, had no sheild on it when I went through the flood.
 
I had the cars tyres replaced a few weeks back, new set, all 4, I just went outside and checked and one of the nuts on the back passenger side is sticking out further than the others, so going to put it up on the trolley jack and replace the nuts which I luckily have a full set of because a few of them were sheared and I though it best to replace them.
 
Where is the steering UJ dude?

Also, what kind of grease do I need, think I got some brake grease, really high temp stuff IIRC?

Got a pic?
 
I don't think it's the wheel bearings because it only happens at very low speeds, going to take the wheels off to do the nuts anyway so maybe give them a good spray of WD40 to attempt to flush any water out?

That's probably a terrible idea, correct me if I am right/wrong? 🤣

I will grease up the lock stops while there.
 
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Well I did all that (barring wheel bearings) and it's a bit quieter but still very there, got it booked in at Bourton LR for thursday to have it looked at, hope they can diagnose it accurately!
 
freelance said:
Does it need a new serpentine belt, as the old one is cracked and slipping ?
Click to expand...

It's a repeated clunk that can be felt in the cabin, only happens when turning and moving, worse the more you turn.

Not sure if the belt would cause that kind of effect only during these factors being true?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Seized CV joint?
Click to expand...

I think it may be, something like that.

Okay, so I took it to Bourton LR today, wasn't impressed with their diagnosis skills to be honest, drove it around the block, plugged a code reader in (no errors), they said it seems like the "transmission box" said it would cost a couple of thousand to repair, I told them I need an accurate diagnosis and they booked it in next friday to "put it on the ramp", why the **** they couldn't do that today is beyond me.

I don't think its transmission because I sprayed all the suspension arms/bushes with GT85 and then grease and the sound got better, not as clunky and now a dull thumping, less pronounced but same intervals.

Anyone know of any good Land Rover guys in the Cotswolds/Midlands area?

Thanks so far guys, appreciate it!
 
mantrid said:
I think it may be, something like that.

Okay, so I took it to Bourton LR today, wasn't impressed with their diagnosis skills to be honest, drove it around the block, plugged a code reader in (no errors), they said it seems like the "transmission box" said it would cost a couple of thousand to repair, I told them I need an accurate diagnosis and they booked it in next friday to "put it on the ramp", why the **** they couldn't do that today is beyond me.

I don't think its transmission because I sprayed all the suspension arms/bushes with GT85 and then grease and the sound got better, not as clunky and now a dull thumping, less pronounced but same intervals.

Anyone know of any good Land Rover guys in the Cotswolds/Midlands area?

Thanks so far guys, appreciate it!
Click to expand...
Why not have a go at looking for it yourself?
Loads of advice on the net
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Why not have a go at looking for it yourself?
Loads of advice on the net
Click to expand...

Well, I kind of am, but I am just a lowly programmer :(

So if it happens both turning both left and right, worse the more you go to full lock, same reverse or forward also, then what out of control arms, drop links or drive axles could cause this problem in both directions? Is there a centre piece/rod or something that could be the culprit, the sound is the same either direction?

Any ideas to give me a starting point?
 
mantrid said:
Well, I kind of am, but I am just a lowly programmer :(

So if it happens both turning both left and right, worse the more you go to full lock, same reverse or forward also, then what out of control arms, drop links or drive axles could cause this problem in both directions? Is there a centre piece/rod or something that could be the culprit, the sound is the same either direction?

Any ideas to give me a starting point?
Click to expand...
Well I've already said what I think, others may say no, try this, try that.....
I'd start by jacking up each end of the axle, putting it on an axle stand, looking for play in any suspension and steering components and then putting a wedge against the back wheels to ensure the car cannot move, putting it in neutral, then turning the wheel by hand. It should turn smoothly and evenly, if there is no obvious problem then do the same with the other wheel. If one of the CV joints is seized you should be able to feel a tightness as the wheel fights the joint which would try to not bend/flex where it should. Keep your eyes and ears open for any binding of any sort.
if it doesn't then get back to us.

It has just struck me, you haven't put the diff lock on by any chance?

EDIT: SORRY, just realised this is a Disco 4. You won't have axles I don't think. I have nothing later than a D2. Nor may you have diff lock.
@gstuart might be able to help.
 
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Stanleysteamer said:
Well I've already said what I think, others may say no, try this, try that.....
I'd start by jacking up each end of the axle, putting it on an axle stand, looking for play in any suspension and steering components and then putting a wedge against the back wheels to ensure the car cannot move, putting it in neutral, then turning the wheel by hand. It should turn smoothly and evenly, if there is no obvious problem then do the same with the other wheel. If one of the CV joints is seized you should be able to feel a tightness as the wheel fights the joint which would try to not bend/flex where it should. Keep your eyes and ears open for any binding of any sort.
if it doesn't then get back to us.

It has just struck me, you haven't put the diff lock on by any chance?

EDIT: SORRY, just realised this is a Disco 4. You won't have axles I don't think. I have nothing later than a D2. Nor may you have diff lock.
@gstuart might be able to help.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice mate, will do exactly this, need to drive down to the local indistral estate and find a quiet place to do it, only got a gravel driveway here and can't get the car up here. Silly question but are the CV joints only on the front, not the rear?
 
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