Drivers side heating only seems to work on HI

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Sidecar fan

New Member
Posts
10
Location
North East Hampshire
Whilst the front passenger side heating seems to work fine the drivers side (RHD) is another matter. Have tried with the Aircon on and off and you get the same thing - with the temperature at 28 and any lower you get cool air through the right hand windscreen vents (the left hand side is fine) and the other Drivers side vents. However put it up to HI and you get blasted with hot air.

Presumably there are two separate controls so is it just a failure of the right hand side one, and if so how easy are they to replace.
 
The self tapper will only help for sticking distribution flaps - not the left and rh temp servo's.Someone did a full write up on RR.net for me,several years ago before I had a digital camera.
Guess who has a p38 in the yard with a sticking dist flap with a self tapper already in it......
 
The self tapper will only help for sticking distribution flaps - not the left and rh temp servo's.Someone did a full write up on RR.net for me,several years ago before I had a digital camera.
Guess who has a p38 in the yard with a sticking dist flap with a self tapper already in it......

Bet it's you. Full cycle it seems. :):):):D:D
 
Hi If you go to rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.hmtl you can down load a full discription of how to repair and how it all works i found the best way to replace the drivers side motor was to remove the instrument panel but on no account turn the ing. key while you have the panel unpluged Best Regards sillyboy
 
Hi if you go to rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html you will find a full details of how it all works and how to repair, i found the best way was to remove the instrument panel but on no account switch on the ing, while you have the panel unpluged
 
As an addendum to the above....Disconnect the battery before unplugging the binnacle, else the possibility of and Air Bag fault!!
As an addendum to the above....Disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes for the back up to discharge before touching anything to do with the SRS unless you like the idea of a face full of airbag:eek:
 
Bet it's you. Full cycle it seems. :):):):D:D
Yep..... Nice ! That and a DII with more water inside it than out - starts itself,or tries to even with the key out.
And on the ramp a 3.9 Classic with two exhaust manifold studs snapped off on the LH head,time for thread inserts.
Not an easy job in sight.
BTW as long as the key is out of the ignition,there is no need to worry about the SRS or EAS, I only remove a battery lead on P38's if I really have to,it often causes more problems than it solves,even just getting the radio code or correct EKA can be a problem.The bit about waiting 10 mins too is not worth worrying about,the SRS DCU has a shorting bar in its plug.So if you need to work on the SRS system just pull the DCU connector about a minute after turning the key off.Blend motor or instrument pack work does not need a battery disconnect - just dont put the key in till the work is finished.
 
Yep..... Nice ! That and a DII with more water inside it than out - starts itself,or tries to even with the key out.
And on the ramp a 3.9 Classic with two exhaust manifold studs snapped off on the LH head,time for thread inserts.
Not an easy job in sight.
BTW as long as the key is out of the ignition,there is no need to worry about the SRS or EAS, I only remove a battery lead on P38's if I really have to,it often causes more problems than it solves,even just getting the radio code or correct EKA can be a problem.The bit about waiting 10 mins too is not worth worrying about,the SRS DCU has a shorting bar in its plug.So if you need to work on the SRS system just pull the DCU connector about a minute after turning the key off.Blend motor or instrument pack work does not need a battery disconnect - just dont put the key in till the work is finished.

Would pulling F23 not do the same job?
 
Not really Wammers,early cars also had a feed from F7.(Pre 99) Also its better really to let the shorting bar in the connector do its job.
 
Back
Top