Drive Flange

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D

David Leech

Well-Known Member
Posts
302
Location
Galway, Ireland
Hello People, doing a bit of a tidy up on a back axle and found that the Drive Flange had a fair amount of play in it. When I went to take it off it put up a bit of a fight but eventually took Half Shaft off and then knocked off Flange with a hammer. As you can see there is a lot of 'scoring' on the inside surface. What would have caused that? This is a refurb 88" so I've no knowledge of previous history. There is also some wear at the Diff end but it doesn't look excessive. I've fitted a spare Flange and Half Shaft but do I need to check the Diff for wear? To be honest I won't know what I'm looking for so, as we say in Ireland, "I might as well be looking into a bush". The 'new' shaft feels good and can be turned by hand with no clunks or stiff points. Should I leave it alone and move on with the rest of the tidy up?
Many thanks for reading this far.....

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Help me with the picture. Its that the rear hub drive flange looking at the inside that would have the wheel bearing nut then tab washer? If so my bet is the nut has come undone at some stage. Is it the near side?
 
Hi Rob, yes it is the rear near/passenger side, the one with the longer half shaft. There was a nice bit of 'radial' play, as in forwards and backways but then it it was very tight to pull off the the end of the shaft. That's a good guess at what might have happened, if the outer nut came undone it would be trapped in in there and get an awful bashing. I was worried that the Diff might have been damaged but maybe just the "wheel end" of the half shaft and inside the flange. The stub axle was fine, nuts, tab washer etc. came off as normal. You've put my little mind at ease, thanks!.....

Cleaned up hub assembly with a 'new' flange ready to fit.....

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+1 on both your summary's of what likely happened. Mabey just change the diff oil and spin the prop by hand to feel the diff, with one wheel off the ground all diff gear wheels will be turning inside or being rotated around.
 
Thanks Tot, I have the axle stripped down as far as the diff at the moment, I have to replace the pinion oil seal 'cause the oil poured out there. The half shaft is turning smoothly in the diff, no 'hard' spots or strange noises. I'll obviously be changing oil when rebuilt and I'd imagine that will make the shaft run even smoother. It's a project so that could be a while away yet.
I was cleaning the backplate yesterday and funny thing is there was a larger brake cylinder fitted on that side, a front fitted to the rear I suspect. I'm replacing all those bits so hopefully will stop in a straight line!.....

T'other side, stub should be on the inside.....
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That looks like it has replaceable seal lands, if so its worth doing them as they are so cheap and the seal lasts longer. Really really make sure it IS replaceable, pole have wrecked stub axles assuming the land is separate when its not. If it is separate hit it hard with a cold chisel radially towards the centre so it gets a bit bigger, then it comes off.
 
Different size slave cylinder's, hmm never know what you find on old landy's. 109's have sided backplates on the twin cylinder front brake's.
My 109 had two left hand plates ! Took a while to work that out.
 
rob1miles said:
That looks like it has replaceable seal lands, if so its worth doing them as they are so cheap and the seal lasts longer. Really really make sure it IS replaceable, pole have wrecked stub axles assuming the land is separate when its not. If it is separate hit it hard with a cold chisel radially towards the centre so it gets a bit bigger, then it comes off.
Click to expand...

They are the replaceable type Rob, I have two different sized bearings in the hub so they're the earlier ones. I was going to chance leaving them on but prompted by your chisel method I looked on the 'net' and it seems relatively easy to replace them so I'll give it a go. I won't be ordering parts for another month or so but I'll update with good news I hope!
 
I'd love to claim it as "my chisel method" but my method was drilling and it took ages, that's when someone showed me how I should have done it. Still I had 2 more to do which is why I can say chisel is the best way. The hub nut spanner makes a good toll for getting the new ones on.
 
tottot said:
Different size slave cylinder's, hmm never know what you find on old landy's. 109's have sided backplates on the twin cylinder front brake's.
My 109 had two left hand plates ! Took a while to work that out.
Click to expand...

Hear hear! When I got my Landy (1977 88" S3 Truck cab), I had a garage fix the breaks to get it through its MoT. The garage phoned me and asked why the brakes were different between the two axles. They were not LR specialists, so I did some detective work and it turned out that the front axle was from a 109, and the rear from the original 88". :confused:
 
Not that unusual, fitting 109 brake's on the front a common upgrade when fitting larger tires on a swb. Even more so was fitting the drums and 3" wide shoes from a so called 1TON model.
 
tottot said:
Not that unusual, fitting 109 brake's on the front a common upgrade when fitting larger tires on a swb. Even more so was fitting the drums and 3" wide shoes from a so called 1TON model.
Click to expand...

It was rather unusual in Sweden, I believe!
 
The wide brakes are a great up grade but there are virtually unobtainable now. Drums and shoes are possible but I believe the brake plates are nowhere to be had.
 
Meant to update earlier but better late than never.....

Axle is held loosely in the vice to support the land from underneath. Hit with a chisel being careful to avoid the small lip at the base of the stub axle

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And voila, it's easy enough to prise off after that

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