Door Repair Walkthrough.

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DanBerry

New Member
Posts
136
Location
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire.
Hi Folks,

Yesterday I decided that it was time that I repaired my door bottoms. As it turned out I managed the nearside just before it started to rain, so I guess you're just going to have to use your imagination for the offside...



Picture #1,
After removing the door, and before you start cutting, make sure that you have CAREFULLY un-peeled the ally skin from the frame, so that it doesn't get damaged.

doorbottom#1.jpg

Picture #2
My corner at the post end was badly corroded, so that would need to be replaced as well.

Doorbottom#2.jpg

Picture #3
Having cut out the bottom rail, I needed to remove the damaged corner back to a good thickness of metal to weld to. I kept the peices that were removed to use them as a rough template to cut the new pieces.

doorbottom#3.jpg

Picture #4
Remember guys, 'Check your corners' !!

doorbottom#4.jpg

Picture #5
After much cutting and welding, this was the end result. Needless to say that having cut the original pieces out, it takes a bit of tacking and hammering to get them so the they are straight. Once your happy with the fit, its just a case of welding it up, then grinding down the excess.
Remember that if you have butt welded your edges, and haven't left enough of a gap, when your grind your welds down you are cutting down on the thickness, and strength of your weld. You should always leave a small gap to ensure good penetration.

doorbottom#5.jpg

Picture #6
Once you've ground your welds down to a nice finish, its time to give your work some protection. ( For you eagle eyes out there, its dark green Hammerite, and not the proper colour. As its going to be on the inside I didn't think it mattered if it was colour coded or not! )

doorbottom#6.jpg

Picture #7
The corner that wasn't, now is!!

doorbottom#9.jpg

If you don't try, you never know what you are capable of, and bearing in mind that to replace door bottoms on a Defender will cost around £100-ish its well worth having a go. If you aren't sure about using a welder a couple of days tuition doesn't cost too much, and we all know that it will pay dividends in the long run.
 
Excellent guide, should be made as a sticky somewhere:)

I had mine repaired by Landrovers Uk at £100 a door, they did an excellent job but your way is much cheaper. Well done:)

Have you thought of offering a repair service for forum members? Could earn yourself a few £££?
 
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Um, I can't remember. Im pretty sure that Sypher recommended them. I got them a couple of months ago, and the old memory has never been that good! I'll check through my email and see if I can find it!!
 
I'm going to start looking for some one within a hundred miles of me in swindon who might be able to do this for me. I don't have a welder and have no idea what I'm doing, I guess I'm just too chicken to risk it. I also want to hand paint my 110 by the end of July so have got to get these done first.

I can't afford to buy new doors and then sell mine on eBay, it might be quicker but paying someone to weld mine must still be cheaper.

Any one out their fancy doing it, let me know.
 
Last edited:
Hi Folks,

Yesterday I decided that it was time that I repaired my door bottoms. As it turned out I managed the nearside just before it started to rain, so I guess you're just going to have to use your imagination for the offside...



Picture #1,
After removing the door, and before you start cutting, make sure that you have CAREFULLY un-peeled the ally skin from the frame, so that it doesn't get damaged.

View attachment 19562

Picture #2
My corner at the post end was badly corroded, so that would need to be replaced as well.

View attachment 19563

Picture #3
Having cut out the bottom rail, I needed to remove the damaged corner back to a good thickness of metal to weld to. I kept the peices that were removed to use them as a rough template to cut the new pieces.

View attachment 19564

Picture #4
Remember guys, 'Check your corners' !!

View attachment 19565

Picture #5
After much cutting and welding, this was the end result. Needless to say that having cut the original pieces out, it takes a bit of tacking and hammering to get them so the they are straight. Once your happy with the fit, its just a case of welding it up, then grinding down the excess.
Remember that if you have butt welded your edges, and haven't left enough of a gap, when your grind your welds down you are cutting down on the thickness, and strength of your weld. You should always leave a small gap to ensure good penetration.

View attachment 19566

Picture #6
Once you've ground your welds down to a nice finish, its time to give your work some protection. ( For you eagle eyes out there, its dark green Hammerite, and not the proper colour. As its going to be on the inside I didn't think it mattered if it was colour coded or not! )

View attachment 19567

Picture #7
The corner that wasn't, now is!!

View attachment 19568

If you don't try, you never know what you are capable of, and bearing in mind that to replace door bottoms on a Defender will cost around £100-ish its well worth having a go. If you aren't sure about using a welder a couple of days tuition doesn't cost too much, and we all know that it will pay dividends in the long run.

nice pics given me nough idea to do mine thanks well done
 
I got my parts from YRM great service and got parts for my seat box to as both sides had rotted . I have done one door but need the other one done . It is a case of money,money money not enough of it !
 
Just picking up on this thread rather than start a new one.

The bottom of my doors have gone in the same areas, however, the rot on mine also includes the section incorporating the lower hinge bolt holes. Now, can I use the same section repair channel that I used for the bottom of the door to replace that section? I'm concerned about getting the bolt holes in the exact same position as well. :(
 
Just picking up on this thread rather than start a new one.

The bottom of my doors have gone in the same areas, however, the rot on mine also includes the section incorporating the lower hinge bolt holes. Now, can I use the same section repair channel that I used for the bottom of the door to replace that section? I'm concerned about getting the bolt holes in the exact same position as well. :(

Take a measurement from one of the top hing holes then when it's welded up you'll know eher to drill the new holes.
 
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