Freelander 1 Does that Egr needs cleaning?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

mbrokof

Active Member
Posts
718
Hi,

was wondering if the egr should be cleaned, see pic?

Last time was in 2014 about 20k ago.

Matthias
 

Attachments

  • A53C706C-6F39-4129-9804-57A322724C3A.jpeg
    A53C706C-6F39-4129-9804-57A322724C3A.jpeg
    226 KB · Views: 363
While it’s off the vehicle, I’d probably give it a quick degunking, as it will only get worse.

Some on here clean the EGR and inlet manifold yearly.

I wonder too if the process of it getting severely gunked up over time is something that accelerates when a nice gunky surface has formed, giving the particles something even more attractive to stick to.
 
Hi,

was wondering if the egr should be cleaned, see pic?

Last time was in 2014 about 20k ago.

Matthias

HI Matthias
That looks ok if it as not been cleaned for 4 years, you could still give it a wipe out with a rag with some carb cleaner sprayed on it, it looks to me that your EGR maybe blocked off with a screw in the small hose as I would expect a lot more crud than that over 4 years, manifold could maybe need a clean as well as the MAP sensor attached to it.
 
While it’s off the vehicle, I’d probably give it a quick degunking, as it will only get worse.

Some on here clean the EGR and inlet manifold yearly.

I wonder too if the process of it getting severely gunked up over time is something that accelerates when a nice gunky surface has formed, giving the particles something even more attractive to stick to.

Didn't clean it up, I think that happened to clean it up itself but still testing it at the moment. Will post another pic after my trip. See also below.
 
HI Matthias
That looks ok if it as not been cleaned for 4 years, you could still give it a wipe out with a rag with some carb cleaner sprayed on it, it looks to me that your EGR maybe blocked off with a screw in the small hose as I would expect a lot more crud than that over 4 years, manifold could maybe need a clean as well as the MAP sensor attached to it.
Thanks Arctic2,
The Diesel consists from c-h and c-c molecules if the c-c ones are being split via energy O molecules can attach to the c ones and can burn much more efficiently causing less sod, smoke emissions and the egr should clean itself. That's what I am testing at the moment. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures before starting the testing as I was more concerned about the smoke emissions and fuel consumption, but will get a pic once back. At the moment having trouble about the pulling of the car which I think caused while supposedly 'fixing' it.
 
If you've got it off, then might as well give it a clean. That's what maintenance is all about for the 'home mechanic'. It doesn't cost anything, unless you've got to use some of the products mentioned about. Main thing is that it works okay. My EGR is shot and has been 'replaced', if the previous owners/servicing personnel had looked after it it would probably still be working. Now I protect my engine from all that rubbish that flows through that valve and into the inlet.

If you have an engine light that illuminates because of an EGR fault then you have to keep up on it's maintenance and functionality as that light needs to be 'out' for MOT testing etc.
 
Thanks Arctic2,
The Diesel consists from c-h and c-c molecules if the c-c ones are being split via energy O molecules can attach to the c ones and can burn much more efficiently causing less sod, smoke emissions and the egr should clean itself. That's what I am testing at the moment. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures before starting the testing as I was more concerned about the smoke emissions and fuel consumption, but will get a pic once back. At the moment having trouble about the pulling of the car which I think caused while supposedly 'fixing' it.

If you find a 'cure' for the 'coking' process you could fall foul of two 'camps' on this forum, those that have a need to bypass any system, therefore circumventing motor manufacturing engineering (therefore nullifying those members 'input') and those who need to replace the original part, with OEM without question at the first sign of possible failure....and there is another...those who MUST strip down every part of the vehicle and clean each component until it looks better than new........That's just about everyone on here.......Your testing needs to be done with Tesco's fuel and you would be best to 'rack up' a years worth of mixed driving, in all weather conditions, including the dreaded school run, be stuck on the M25 for probably 25% of your entire life whilst driving, eating a Greggs pasty (or two) for your 'trial' to have any scientific value......But we look forward to your results 'Anyhoo'.........And if you do succeed, Elon Musk may 'headhunt' you so you don't divulge your 'cure' to the rest of the motor industry.....or he could hire someone to do another type of 'headhunt'?? Joking aside, best of luck and let us know how you get on!!
 
If you find a 'cure' for the 'coking' process you could fall foul of two 'camps' on this forum, those that have a need to bypass any system, therefore circumventing motor manufacturing engineering (therefore nullifying those members 'input') and those who need to replace the original part, with OEM without question at the first sign of possible failure...

The coking problem is caused by oil in the inlet tract being partially burned at the EGR valve. The oil gets into the inlet tract as it's centrifuged from the turbo oil seals as a very fine mist. This oil will always be present, but does increase as the turbo seals slacken with miles.

This oil mist partially combusts when it comes into contact with the hot exhaust gasses that the EGR valve passed to the inlet manifold. So unless you can eliminate all the oil, there's always going to be carbon gunk in the inlet, downstream of the EGR valve.
 
If you find a 'cure' for the 'coking' process you could fall foul of two 'camps' on this forum, those that have a need to bypass any system, therefore circumventing motor manufacturing engineering (therefore nullifying those members 'input') and those who need to replace the original part, with OEM without question at the first sign of possible failure....and there is another...those who MUST strip down every part of the vehicle and clean each component until it looks better than new........That's just about everyone on here.......Your testing needs to be done with Tesco's fuel and you would be best to 'rack up' a years worth of mixed driving, in all weather conditions, including the dreaded school run, be stuck on the M25 for probably 25% of your entire life whilst driving, eating a Greggs pasty (or two) for your 'trial' to have any scientific value......But we look forward to your results 'Anyhoo'.........And if you do succeed, Elon Musk may 'headhunt' you so you don't divulge your 'cure' to the rest of the motor industry.....or he could hire someone to do another type of 'headhunt'?? Joking aside, best of luck and let us know how you get on!!
Yes, will let you know. Unfortunately didn't take pictures before and to clean it might need a while. In the beginning there was a time when there was a lot of smoke from the exhaust which is part of the cleaning process. Testing has been done from others for furl and smoke quite a lot but no one has done the egr to check.
 
And it's important.
For a pasty to be called a Cornish Pasty it should be 'D' shaped and crimped on one side, not on the top. Its ingredients include beef, swede (called turnip down here), potato and onion, with a light seasoning of salt and pepper, with a chunky texture of the ingredients throughout.

What do you call turnips then down there?
 
What do you call turnips then down there?

The small white turnips you mean? I know them as white turnips.

The larger yellow turnips which are often sold as swedes in supermarkets are known as just turnips.
So if a Cornish person speaks of using turnips in a Pasty, then they are using swede.
Simples
 
And it's important.
For a pasty to be called a Cornish Pasty it should be 'D' shaped and crimped on one side, not on the top. Its ingredients include beef, swede (called turnip down here), potato and onion, with a light seasoning of salt and pepper, with a chunky texture of the ingredients throughout.
Blimey! I have been told. Good job I don't believe in pasty identity fluidity I might have had a melt down :)
 
Thanks Arctic2,
The Diesel consists from c-h and c-c molecules if the c-c ones are being split via energy O molecules can attach to the c ones and can burn much more efficiently causing less sod, smoke emissions and the egr should clean itself. That's what I am testing at the moment. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures before starting the testing as I was more concerned about the smoke emissions and fuel consumption, but will get a pic once back. At the moment having trouble about the pulling of the car which I think caused while supposedly 'fixing' it.
What form of witch craft is this you speak of? :eek:
As Nodge says, it ain't only exhaust fumes causing the gunk to build up. If you try to clean the build up you'll notice a sizeable percentage of it is oil.
As a lazy sod who has no interest in ever cleaning an EGR or inlet manifold ever again I'm watching with interest. ;)
 
Back
Top