dodgy prop??

my front prop is spinning freely after a large clunking noise pulling someone out of a ditch and will only drive in lo range diff lock, is this my diff, prop or transfer box and is there any way of finding out for sure ?????

I would just scrap the whole thing!!

Its obviously fooked!!

if it will only drive in low range diff lock, It must be transfer box.
But, have you actually tried high range diff lock? a half shaft or diff is much more likely to fail than the transfer box, but in that case it would drive in high diff lock.

everreadyeddy said:

my front prop is spinning freely after a large clunking noise pulling someone out of a ditch and will only drive in lo range diff lock, is this my diff, prop or transfer box and is there any way of finding out for sure ?????

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hun73r can kiss my ass at least mine can still move slowly ha ha

everreadyeddy said:

hun73r can kiss my ass at least mine can still move slowly ha ha

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CNUT!!

why would a CocoNUT cause his prop to fail, Hun?

ah yer see a coconut could cause no end of problems with yer prop, peraps that were the clunkin noise he heard.

diff lock works on t/fer box not axl, so most likly halfshaft
doubtfull yer busted yer t/fer box, try high diff lock even if it needs crackin in gear

chippy22 said:

ah yer see a coconut could cause no end of problems with yer prop, peraps that were the clunkin noise he heard.

diff lock works on t/fer box not axl, so most likly halfshaft
doubtfull yer busted yer t/fer box, try high diff lock even if it needs crackin in gear

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We had a look last night. She drives in DiffLock Hi and Lo. The front prop just spins if the Diff isnt locked. This makes me think it can only be the front diff that is fooked in some way.

Anyone got a spare front Diff/Axle??

am I being dumb here?
if it drives in difflock high and low - then it is driving the FRONT wheels. if you have no drive except with difflock - it is the REAR that gazoobered. most likely a half shaft or possibly the diff. remove each rear halfshaft and check them first - 6 bolts in the middle of each wheel - its a 15 minute job to check.

The Mad Hat Man said:

am I being dumb here?
if it drives in difflock high and low - then it is driving the FRONT wheels. if you have no drive except with difflock - it is the REAR that gazoobered. most likely a half shaft or possibly the diff. remove each rear halfshaft and check them first - 6 bolts in the middle of each wheel - its a 15 minute job to check.

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Err is it me deing dumb?

when you try and drive it without difflock all that happens is the front prop spins and you get no drive to the front wheels (or back). My understanding is that this is happening because the diff in the transfer box is sending the drive to the easiest route. The Easiest route is the front prop because the front diff (maybe halfshaft) is fooked and isnt driving any wheels.

Thats right isnt it? Or am I still hung over from the weekend!!!

The Mad Hat Man said:

am I being dumb here?
if it drives in difflock high and low - then it is driving the FRONT wheels. if you have no drive except with difflock - it is the REAR that gazoobered. most likely a half shaft or possibly the diff. remove each rear halfshaft and check them first - 6 bolts in the middle of each wheel - its a 15 minute job to check.

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Yes you are being numb!

It won't drive normally because the diff in the transfer box is working, so because there is no drive connection to the wheels from the front propshaft, the prop is just spinning.
Now if diff lock is engaged, then the transfer box is locked up and is not allowed to work, so instead of just spinning the front prop, half of the drive goes to the rear prop and drives the back axle.

It's the front end that's knackered, but before you start pulling diffs out, remove the axle caps and see if the drive shaft is spinning in the ends, (they do go knackered) then pull the drive shafts out and check the other end (diff end)

MY money is on the drive shaft/end cap/s on the front axle.

Gafferjim said:

Yes you are being numb!

It won't drive normally because the diff in the transfer box is working, so because there is no drive connection to the wheels from the front propshaft, the prop is just spinning.
Now if diff lock is engaged, then the transfer box is locked up and is not allowed to work, so instead of just spinning the front prop, half of the drive goes to the rear prop and drives the back axle.

It's the front end that's knackered, but before you start pulling diffs out, remove the axle caps and see if the drive shaft is spinning in the ends, (they do go knackered) then pull the drive shafts out and check the other end (diff end)

MY money is on the drive shaft/end cap/s on the front axle.

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This is what I think!

Will get him to check the drive shafts after work. Will keep you posted!

Thanks for the help guys!!

erm.. yup yu is rite - thinkin about it a bit more - i was getting confusled with a series which is 2/4wd - not constant 4wd.

still say remove the halfshafts and look tho - or crawl underneath without difflock engaged and see if yu can hear the grinding of teeth.

The Mad Hat Man said:

erm.. yup yu is rite - thinkin about it a bit more - i was getting confusled with a series which is 2/4wd - not constant 4wd.

still say remove the halfshafts and look tho - or crawl underneath without difflock engaged and see if yu can hear the grinding of teeth.

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I thought you might be thinking of a series.

I was under it last night without the difflock engaged (good job it didnt move!) and the front prop just spins. No grinding noises. When you grab the front prop (not when the engine is on!) it turns very freely. Feels almost as though it isnt connected to anything inside the front axle. Anyway, thanks for the input. I will get him to check the halfshafts tonight, before touching the front diff.

right ive romoved the six bolts to get halfshaft out but carnt pull em out? i took the slit spring washer off and removed the casing but still carnt pull the shaft out??? is there summat im missing???

Gafferjim said:

Yes you are being numb!

It won't drive normally because the diff in the transfer box is working, so because there is no drive connection to the wheels from the front propshaft, the prop is just spinning.
Now if diff lock is engaged, then the transfer box is locked up and is not allowed to work, so instead of just spinning the front prop, half of the drive goes to the rear prop and drives the back axle.

It's the front end that's knackered, but before you start pulling diffs out, remove the axle caps and see if the drive shaft is spinning in the ends, (they do go knackered) then pull the drive shafts out and check the other end (diff end)

MY money is on the drive shaft/end cap/s on the front axle.

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how do i pull the shafts out?? ive removed screws and the cap??

everreadyeddy said:

how do i pull the shafts out?? ive removed screws and the cap??

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Try and take yer drive flange off, it should be easier

If ye have a look at the first few piccies in this link...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/rear-wheel-bearings-renewed-58851.html

ye'll see what ah mean

yup
pull out the drive flange with the half-shaft attached.

ive done as u say and ive pulled the ****er with all me might, and it aint budgin?? hun73r's ere with me and he said his back axle was easy to remove, this was also a drum brake set up, would it be diffrent on a front disk brake axle???

oh and thanks for the help so far!!!!