Dodgy drain plug

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westone

Active Member
Posts
415
Location
West country
I bought a couple of spare drain plugs many months ago from e bay as the one on Disco was chewed .
Kept these in stock.

So during a recent oil change put a new plug in.During tightening with a 3/8inch ratchet,6 point nice new Elora socket the the nut end snapped off...this was with minimal pressure with just my hand over the end of the ratchet where the socket attaches ,this was to tighten 1/4 turn.
Luckily i got the remains out with mole grips.... I should have known better, the seller has disappeared now, price was £3.95 post paid each...I see lots are advertised still on the site.

So ordered 2 new ones from JLR this one went in fine, same technique, bought a spare to dilute the carriage charges.

They do not come with sealing washers ,JLR will only sell 5 and they want nearly £8 for this, so I made some.Not pretty but work.
The ebay ones come with a washer JLR do not.

Dimensions are 22mm OD,14mmID and 2mm thickness for sealing was in Aluminium

This might save someone the stress I went through!
 
My D2 TD5 sump plug won't come out.
I drain the oil via the dipstick hole, bit of a pain but it works.
What bothers me is that if I did take it out, the hole might be so damaged I'd have to take the sump off to rectify it.
I've been there with another car. Right pain. Why can't they make something as necessary for maintenance more suitable for the job?
 
I agree SS..I had to use a 18inch bar to get out the manky one and then the stress of a new bust plug...had visions of sump removal!

The filter was the same.I could not move it..I tried 2 chain devices, my BOA rubbed thing and the type with legs which fit on the end....This one did it.
I had to get a very strong friend to do it in the end for me, he put a long bar on the 3 leg device..I put my shoulder out trying to undo it.

Whatever happened to hand tight?

What device do you use on the dipstick hole?...this would be so much easier.
 
westone said:
I agree SS..I had to use a 18inch bar to get out the manky one and then the stress of a new bust plug...had visions of sump removal!

The filter was the same.I could not move it..I tried 2 chain devices, my BOA rubbed thing and the type with legs which fit on the end....This one did it.
I had to get a very strong friend to do it in the end for me, he put a long bar on the 3 leg device..I put my shoulder out trying to undo it.

Whatever happened to hand tight?

What device do you use on the dipstick hole?...this would be so much easier.
Click to expand...
I started with some clear plastic tube, the sort you can get to mend your w/washers with. I set up a syphon and it worked, but it took literally a couple of days! Then I bought a suction kit from my local Motabitz, cost about a tenner, very messy and takes a bit of getting used to but it works and is a lot quicker. Works with a hand pump. Very very basic.Thi sort of thing
Amazon product
But there are much better pumps out there. I was just in a hurry to get on with it. and I can carry it in the pannier in the back of the Disco.
 
PS.
My top tip for unscrewing tight oil filters.
Don't warm the engine up first.:)
Loosen the oil filter on a cold engine, THEN warm the oil up before changing the oil and filter.
You should only ever have trouble on a vehicle once, first time you ever do it.
Hand tight with a pair of rubber gloves is all you need and all it should ever take to get one loose.;););)
 
westone said:
They do not come with sealing washers ,JLR will only sell 5 and they want nearly £8 for this, so I made some.Not pretty but work.
The ebay ones come with a washer JLR do not.

Dimensions are 22mm OD,14mmID and 2mm thickness for sealing was in Aluminium
Click to expand...
For my V8 I bought the aluminum washers for a Honda (part number 94109-14000) pack of 5 for 3 quid on eBay.
 
westone said:
I agree SS..I had to use a 18inch bar to get out the manky one and then the stress of a new bust plug...had visions of sump removal!

The filter was the same.I could not move it..I tried 2 chain devices, my BOA rubbed thing and the type with legs which fit on the end....This one did it.
I had to get a very strong friend to do it in the end for me, he put a long bar on the 3 leg device..I put my shoulder out trying to undo it.

Whatever happened to hand tight?

What device do you use on the dipstick hole?...this would be so much easier.
Click to expand...
I got one of these from Lidl, as ronsealdeath above said, £9.99. Works well if you straighten out the suction tube first (I used boiling water) and the oil is slightly warm. I've also used it "in reverse" after a good clean to fill the auto box.

I've got the same issue as Mr Stan, the sump plug has probably been tightened up with a windy gun at max torque and will probably snap or wreck the sump if I try to remove it.
 

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PopPops said:
I got one of these from Lidl, as ronsealdeath above said, £9.99. Works well if you straighten out the suction tube first (I used boiling water) and the oil is slightly warm. I've also used it "in reverse" after a good clean to fill the auto box.

I've got the same issue as Mr Stan, the sump plug has probably been tightened up with a windy gun at max torque and will probably snap or wreck the sump if I try to remove it.
Click to expand...
Well as I discovered and posted just above, they are no longer available from Lidl, but others are available, and I put a link up for them.
Think I'll get one!

On the sump plug, nope it was me who used it to change the oil several times before it finally got to the point where my ornery twelve sided ring spanner or even 6 sided socket, was beginning to round off the corners on the hex. I never over-tighten anything, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten to the proper torque. I think it is simply that the plug is very flat and the flats on the ring spanner or socket cannot get right on it, as the beginning part of all normal sockets and ring spanners is kinda smoothed off, to enable easy fitting I suppose, or summat. but this prevents the tools exerting full force from the off. Maybe I should grind this off either a spanner or a socket so it goes straight to flat.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Well as I discovered and posted just above, they are no longer available from Lidl, but others are available, and I put a link up for them.
Think I'll get one!

On the sump plug, nope it was me who used it to change the oil several times before it finally got to the point where my ornery twelve sided ring spanner or even 6 sided socket, was beginning to round off the corners on the hex. I never over-tighten anything, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten to the proper torque. I think it is simply that the plug is very flat and the flats on the ring spanner or socket cannot get right on it, as the beginning part of all normal sockets and ring spanners is kinda smoothed off, to enable easy fitting I suppose, or summat. but this prevents the tools exerting full force from the off. Maybe I should grind this off either a spanner or a socket so it goes straight to flat.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I missed that post! I got mine a month ago from Lidl up the road, they seem to come and go, I was lucky I suppose. I've also got one in France, I think I got that one from Lidl France.

I started to try to remove mine with a 6 point 3/8 socket, but I got worried the 3/8 ratchet was going to snap, I didn't have a 17mm (?) 6 point 1/2 inch and the plug started to round with a 12 point, so at that point it seemed better to leave it there and sort it if I ever need to remove the sump.
 
PopPops said:
Sorry, I missed that post! I got mine a month ago from Lidl up the road, they seem to come and go, I was lucky I suppose. I've also got one in France, I think I got that one from Lidl France.

I started to try to remove mine with a 6 point 3/8 socket, but I got worried the 3/8 ratchet was going to snap, I didn't have a 17mm (?) 6 point 1/2 inch and the plug started to round with a 12 point, so at that point it seemed better to leave it there and sort it if I ever need to remove the sump.
Click to expand...
Funnily I also have another pump in France, one of the cheapo hand ones like I showed earlier on!.
I'm beginning to think I might take my sump off and kill two birds with one stone:
Changing the sump plug for a better one and.....
Checking the oil pump bolt which people have had such nightmares with.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-oil-pump-bolt.313022/
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I started with some clear plastic tube, the sort you can get to mend your w/washers with. I set up a syphon and it worked, but it took literally a couple of days! Then I bought a suction kit from my local Motabitz, cost about a tenner, very messy and takes a bit of getting used to but it works and is a lot quicker. Works with a hand pump. Very very basic.Thi sort of thing
Amazon product
But there are much better pumps out there. I was just in a hurry to get on with it. and I can carry it in the pannier in the back of the Disco.
Click to expand...


Thanks SS, seen some on Amazon for £20,I think i will go the pump way next time.
As I read elsewhere on the forum thats its a better method as it clears all the oil out.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Funnily I also have another pump in France, one of the cheapo hand ones like I showed earlier on!.
I'm beginning to think I might take my sump off and kill two birds with one stone:
Changing the sump plug for a better one and.....
Checking the oil pump bolt which people have had such nightmares with.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-oil-pump-bolt.313022/
Click to expand...
The dreaded oil pump bolt! Just one more thing to worry about. Mine is a 16P which shouldo_Ohave had the loctited bolt, but I know there have been problems with them too.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Well as I discovered and posted just above, they are no longer available from Lidl, but others are available, and I put a link up for them.
Think I'll get one!

On the sump plug, nope it was me who used it to change the oil several times before it finally got to the point where my ornery twelve sided ring spanner or even 6 sided socket, was beginning to round off the corners on the hex. I never over-tighten anything, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten to the proper torque. I think it is simply that the plug is very flat and the flats on the ring spanner or socket cannot get right on it, as the beginning part of all normal sockets and ring spanners is kinda smoothed off, to enable easy fitting I suppose, or summat. but this prevents the tools exerting full force from the off. Maybe I should grind this off either a spanner or a socket so it goes straight to flat.
Click to expand...

An interesting twist with my breaking plug friend of a friend who is a metallurgist was asked to have a look at it.he took the plug to work and found it was full of air holes like an Aero bar and he was not surprised it broke.

He said he had seen it before, likely area of supply India.

On the JLR ones in the packet it says made in the UK..
 
PopPops said:
The dreaded oil pump bolt! Just one more thing to worry about. Mine is a 16P which shouldo_Ohave had the loctited bolt, but I know there have been problems with them too.
Click to expand...
It is a total sh!t not knowing, isn't it?
When I bought my first D1, knowing I would be doing tons of towing, I decided to get the clutch changed.
The bloke did it but showed me the clutch plate he took out, Very little wear.
But you just can't take the chance, can you? Who wants their clutch going on an autoroute halfway down France? ;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
PS.
My top tip for unscrewing tight oil filters.
Don't warm the engine up first.:)
Loosen the oil filter on a cold engine, THEN warm the oil up before changing the oil and filter.
You should only ever have trouble on a vehicle once, first time you ever do it.
Hand tight with a pair of rubber gloves is all you need and all it should ever take to get one loose.;););)
Click to expand...

Hi SS,
took Disco for a run today...no where in particular jus nice to be out and escape from wife putting up decorations.
.
On my return i checked the oil filter ..it had a small blob of oil on it dripping and i could tighten it probably 1/4 turn by hand.
It was tight as could be by hand when i finished the oil change.
I used a Land rove filter ER 3340 FILTER.

thinking of using a tool to nip it up..any thoughts please?

.
 
westone said:
Hi SS,
took Disco for a run today...no where in particular jus nice to be out and escape from wife putting up decorations.
.
On my return i checked the oil filter ..it had a small blob of oil on it dripping and i could tighten it probably 1/4 turn by hand.
It was tight as could be by hand when i finished the oil change.
I used a Land rove filter ER 3340 FILTER.

thinking of using a tool to nip it up..any thoughts please?

.
Click to expand...
The filter you mention is for a Disco 1, your profile says you have a Disco 2. You need an LPX 100590 for that.
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-defender-td5-engine-oil-filter-genuine-lr/#:~:text=Discovery 2 & Defender TD5 Engine Oil Filter MAHLE OEM&text=Equivalent to Land Rover part number: LPX100590.
The rest of this may then be immaterial.
But if you DO have a D1.....
Did you smear a bit of oil on the rubber seal when you fitted it? Did you make sure the seal came out with the old filter when you took it off? They do usually come out with it, but you never know.
I'd put a pair of rubber gloves on, tighten it up as tight as you can by hand then wipe it off and do what you have just done. If it is still leaking I'd let it cool down and the oil drain back into the sump, then take the filter off again, which will be a bit messy and investigate the seal situation. It is just possible there will be two in there. The one attached to your new filter and another one left behind in the past. If it was fecking hard to get off, it could be because the previous owner had the same problem but cured it by tightening it up to feck.
Failing that we are into the realms of distortion or scratched sealing surfaces.
Does any of this help?
 
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