Do I need a new driver pack

Rubberknees said:

Past 2 weeks back end sagging overnight. Leaks found in bags so they were replaced. Back end still going down. Diaphragm valve was leaking in valve block so decided on full rebuild. Was given a valve block to rebuild with full kit from XR8. This was fitted Sat afternoon. Now since then whilst driving Sunday, Monday and 2 times yesterday had Rangie rise to high setting whilst driving. Pressing button levels it back down to normal. Googling seems to point to driver pack. Any pointers please or shall we just change driver pack.

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Datatek said:

Could also be a height sensor. Driver packs can be fixed so if you replace it do not bin the old one.

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Rubberknees said:

Thanks Keith. Height sensors seem ok with RSW software plugged in. Just been looking at when you repaired a driver pack, daja vu or what

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pwood999 said:

Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly.

But do the capacitor mod first - it's easier.

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pwood999 said:

Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply.

On mine after I sorted the bad joints in the fusebox & +ve battery terminal, it did seem to have less EAS random jump to high mode, but it still does it occaisionally. I still need to do the capacitor mod & re-check the connectors under the valve block which haven't been checked for a few years.

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Rubberknees said:

Could short runs and this cold weather causing low battery affect is cause but in any way

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Datatek said:

Low battery could certainly cause problems if for example the apparent low voltage is due to bad earths, battery terminal connections or the live feed to the EAS ECU.

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Datatek said:

If you want to play, fit a 200uf 63 volt 105C electrolytic across the power wires as close as possible to the driver pack and see if that fixes it. cheaper than a replacement pack.

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Rubberknees said:

Hi Keith is this the capacitor I need Suntan CE Electrolytic Capacitors 200uf 63V 105'C Axial 22x13mm 2 Pieces OL0110 found it on the bay priced at £7

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Datatek said:

Right part but sounds expensive, try Conrad, Farnell or CPC. It's not something I would buy on Ebay and I do not know that brand so may be Chinese rubbish.

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Datatek said:

Right part but sounds expensive, try Conrad, Farnell or CPC. It's not something I would buy on Ebay and I do not know that brand so may be Chinese rubbish.

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Rubberknees said:

CPC have the best delivery charges and prices but can only find a Panasonic 220uf. Is this OK

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Datatek said:

Yes, that's fine.

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Rubberknees said:

Merci mon ami

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Rubberknees said:

Well had to drop he wife off earlier and she was only going to be 30mins so instead of waiting I decided to put one of those voltage readers that go into cig lighter socket and go for a run. Ignition on but engine not running 12.6v cranking engine 10.1 v and with engine running 12.7 to 12.8 v. I'm sure last time I used it it ran at 13.2v with engine running. Is the 12.7 v a little on the low side and maybe sign of alternator not charging properly. Again no EAS problems.

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Datatek said:

Very low, should be between 14.4 & 14.8 volts just after starting folding back eventually to 13.8 volts. Needs a new regulator & brush assembly a the very least, assuming your plug in DVM actually works, I have one that always shows 12.8 volts!
Mobiletron VR-VW010i regulator needed.

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