Diesel Do
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Notice no fluid running anywhere! I haven't removed any or cleaned it at all! It's like toffee
DIY VCU service
- Thread starter jedi
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Notice no fluid running anywhere! I haven't removed any or cleaned it at all! It's like toffee
Alibro
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I believe it thins a bit with heat but seeing this makes me wonder if other peeps are telling the whole truth about draining the fluid. Either that or theirs weren't as stuck as yours (and I suspect mine)
Diesel Do
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My issue is I've no idea what the new fluid is like? Is it liquid or thick grease? I can't see a way of getting the gloop off to measure the volume cos it's so dammed gloopy!
Alibro
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Can you weigh everything, clean it up and weigh it again to get an idea how much fluid to put in?
Looking at this I think I will have to open mine the same way and have a go at welding it up when finished.
Brilliant pics and info here by the way. Thanks for doing it.
Looking at this I think I will have to open mine the same way and have a go at welding it up when finished.
Brilliant pics and info here by the way. Thanks for doing it.
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Diesel Do
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It seemed to thicken with heat? The bit that did come out on the lathe wouldn't throw off it. It was the consistency of sticky toffee
Diesel Do
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That's possible
The plates are literally glued together
The plates are literally glued together
Diesel Do
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There's two obvious fill points with ball bearings beaten in. Guess they're fully built then the fluid injected in. Can see welding the end back on with it full of grease not being fun.
Diesel Do
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You can see the fluid just won't run
Alibro
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I have grease nipples on the way so in theory could try do inject the stuff through them, I suspect it needs to be done under pressure. I would also be concerned about damaging the fluid by welding with it in.
Diesel Do
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I've got no idea what the fluids like new? Is this like toffee cos its knackered and that's why it's virtually seized. Or is it meant to be like toffee and it's just gone off with age?
Hippo
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May I request we post pic's one below the other - ta.
I think the heat from welding would damage the fluid inside.
At ambient temp the fluid is gooey when rubbing in yer fingers.
When it's rubbed between plates it gets hot and starts to solidify rapidly, then turns back suddenly as it looses temp when the plates rotate together (rubbing reduces/stops). It's this on/off action of rubbing between plates that creates an equilibrium effect of the consistency of the fluid.
When I drilled mine the fluid did flow out, but mine wasn't totally seized up. It was working, but seizing up sooner than normal. When I say seize I mean activating to become stiffer across the vcu. A vcu had a certain amount of stuffness across itself, when on it's own. This stiffness is increased when the props rotate at diferring speeds.
I think the heat from welding would damage the fluid inside.
At ambient temp the fluid is gooey when rubbing in yer fingers.
When it's rubbed between plates it gets hot and starts to solidify rapidly, then turns back suddenly as it looses temp when the plates rotate together (rubbing reduces/stops). It's this on/off action of rubbing between plates that creates an equilibrium effect of the consistency of the fluid.
When I drilled mine the fluid did flow out, but mine wasn't totally seized up. It was working, but seizing up sooner than normal. When I say seize I mean activating to become stiffer across the vcu. A vcu had a certain amount of stuffness across itself, when on it's own. This stiffness is increased when the props rotate at diferring speeds.
jedi
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Lol! The fluid is like that....buy some new stuff, its sticky like hell...the harder you agitate it the worse it sticks..
99% of the job is getting the old fluid out...took me 2 weeks on and off and about 1.5 litres of white spirit to disolve the fluid to a point it would slowly flow out.
No idea how your going to weld that back up....but I'm no welder? Maybe it can be done.
Love the pics and great work lads, at least your giving it a go...don't give up[emoji106]
99% of the job is getting the old fluid out...took me 2 weeks on and off and about 1.5 litres of white spirit to disolve the fluid to a point it would slowly flow out.
No idea how your going to weld that back up....but I'm no welder? Maybe it can be done.
Love the pics and great work lads, at least your giving it a go...don't give up[emoji106]
GrumpyGel
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I don't know the part numbers. I got a bearing/seal/cooler kit from Home page (One Stop Gearbox Shop)
The kit contained bearings from different suppliers, some Timken and others other makes. Its been in for 2 years and fine so far. They were very helpful. They wrote my address down wrong and the courier couldn't deliver it, but they went out of their way so sort it out.
They are on eBay, that's how I found them.
Alibro
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I guess if I'm going to drill it anyway to get the stuff back in it is worth trying it this way. As i see it the biggest unknown right now is how much needs to go back in. If we're pumping white spirit into it we'll never know how much came out.
Thanks grumpy, ill look them up.
Thanks grumpy, ill look them up.
Diesel Do
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I reckon I can weld the end back on. I've wondered if you can align all the cutouts in the plates with one of the holes to inject the toffee!
Diesel Do
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May I request we post pic's one below the other - ta.
No!!!!
I think the heat from welding would damage the fluid inside.
Me too
At ambient temp the fluid is gooey when rubbing in yer fingers.
We still talking about Vcu?????
When it's rubbed between plates it gets hot and starts to solidify rapidly, then turns back suddenly as it looses temp when the plates rotate together (rubbing reduces/stops). It's this on/off action of rubbing between plates that creates an equilibrium effect of the consistency of the fluid.
When I drilled mine the fluid did flow out, but mine wasn't totally seized up. It was working, but seizing up sooner than normal. When I say seize I mean activating to become stiffer across the vcu. A vcu had a certain amount of stuffness across itself, when on it's own. This stiffness is increased when the props rotate at diferring speeds.
Answers above
htr
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In those web sites discussing reconditioning a VW VCU they talk about the air portion being a percentage of the total capacity, 8 - 9% I think. The silicone was 100,000cst and had the consistency of honey. The quantity was calculated by measuring the capacity when it was all reassembled, less the air percentage, then recalculated to give a mass in grams.
Re reclosing the LR VCU, do they have to be rewelded? Could a method of adding a welded collar around the opening which is groved to take a large circlip to hold it all together and a good 'O' ring to seal it all be utilised. The cut off end 'cap' would slip inside that collar.A very similar principle as seen on the youtube clip of the VW VCU closure method.
Food for thought?
Re reclosing the LR VCU, do they have to be rewelded? Could a method of adding a welded collar around the opening which is groved to take a large circlip to hold it all together and a good 'O' ring to seal it all be utilised. The cut off end 'cap' would slip inside that collar.A very similar principle as seen on the youtube clip of the VW VCU closure method.
Food for thought?
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Diesel Do
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htr
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from the web discussion:
And now the moment we've all been waiting for; filling the coupler! I used mineral spirits to determine the full volume of the VC was 330cc, so that would mean that we need 306.9ml of Silicone fluid for a fill with 7% air present. Since volumetrically measuring something with such a high viscosity is really impractical and inaccurate, we calculated the mass of silicone needed given the density (listed on the MSDS) was 300g. Remember that density is just mass per unit volume.
And:
I then tared a scale with an empty pint glass and two spoons. I filled the pint glass with around 400g of silicone. Note the full weight and carefully add silicone to the unit, reweighing the glass, spoons, and silicone until only the difference in weight remains. 300g on the nose.
And now the moment we've all been waiting for; filling the coupler! I used mineral spirits to determine the full volume of the VC was 330cc, so that would mean that we need 306.9ml of Silicone fluid for a fill with 7% air present. Since volumetrically measuring something with such a high viscosity is really impractical and inaccurate, we calculated the mass of silicone needed given the density (listed on the MSDS) was 300g. Remember that density is just mass per unit volume.
And:
I then tared a scale with an empty pint glass and two spoons. I filled the pint glass with around 400g of silicone. Note the full weight and carefully add silicone to the unit, reweighing the glass, spoons, and silicone until only the difference in weight remains. 300g on the nose.
Alibro
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OK, I figured my VCU was lying there dud anyway so what do I have to lose?
Two 8mm holes drilled in the rear end at 12 and 6 o'clock and gloop flowing from the bottom hole albeit slowly.
These were taken about ten minutes after drilling the holes and there is quite a bit more has come out since. I'm in no hurry here. If it takes a month to drain that's fine by me.
I drilled the holes 8mm cause I wasn't sure how big the hole needed to be for a 10mm tap and 10mm screw thread. I've since checked and the correct size for my 10 x 1 tap is 9.1mm (for a 10 x 1.5 tap it should be 8.5mm) so I will need to re-drill the holes.
For anyone asking how did I avoid hitting the disk inside the answer is I didn't, it is so close to the back plate you have no choice but to hit it but I don't foresee this being a major issue (hopefully).
I'm hoping if I leave it long enough it will drain sufficient that I can free it up as I think I will need it to turn freely to get the new stuff in. If this does work I can measure what came out and replace it with the same weight of new fluid.
As I will be filling with 60,000 I'm not too bothered if a little of the old stuff is still in it.
Two 8mm holes drilled in the rear end at 12 and 6 o'clock and gloop flowing from the bottom hole albeit slowly.
These were taken about ten minutes after drilling the holes and there is quite a bit more has come out since. I'm in no hurry here. If it takes a month to drain that's fine by me.
I drilled the holes 8mm cause I wasn't sure how big the hole needed to be for a 10mm tap and 10mm screw thread. I've since checked and the correct size for my 10 x 1 tap is 9.1mm (for a 10 x 1.5 tap it should be 8.5mm) so I will need to re-drill the holes.
For anyone asking how did I avoid hitting the disk inside the answer is I didn't, it is so close to the back plate you have no choice but to hit it but I don't foresee this being a major issue (hopefully).
I'm hoping if I leave it long enough it will drain sufficient that I can free it up as I think I will need it to turn freely to get the new stuff in. If this does work I can measure what came out and replace it with the same weight of new fluid.
As I will be filling with 60,000 I'm not too bothered if a little of the old stuff is still in it.
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