diy tracking

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gfromleeds

gfromleeds

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,234
Location
leeds. westyorkshire, uk
After my mot fail it would appear that the n/s drag link and the n/s track rod joint need replacing
However the guy said the o/s will be close to failing too so just gona buy this
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=230973039038
firstly theres another guy selling the same for over £200 so whats the diferance?obviously I will need to have the tracking reset but anyone got a tip on how to get it close enough to drive to the test center about 4 miles and ill have them do it properly
 
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gfromleeds said:
After my mot fail it would appear that the n/s drag link and the n/s track rod joint need replacing
However the guy said the o/s will be close to failing too so just gona buy this
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=230973039038
firstly theres another guy selling the same for over £200 so whats the diferance?obviously I will need to have the tracking reset but anyone got a tip on how to get it close enough to drive to the test center about 4 miles and ill have them do it properly
Click to expand...

Put a nut (not nyloc) on each end of the old track rod and drag link. Put the old an new together and screw the nut down the thread onto the fixed end to lock them together, then adjust the other end until that nut screws onto to lock them together then nip up the new unit and fit it.
 
Do the tie rod first loosen both ends knock out one end put it back do the other end now they are freed put wheels on floor. Remove when you put the new one on leave the adjuster end loose get it as close as you can to the original , becuse the wheels are on the floor they will be hard to move . Put the fixed end in first tighten enough with the other end tight loosen until it fits , hey presto done tighten every thing up ;)

Same with the other one put steering lock on and it won't move you can put it on blocks if you must :)
 
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quote (becuse the wheels are on the floor they will be hard to move . Put the fixed end in first tighten enough with the other end tight loosen until it fits , hey presto done tighten every thing up )

but if its not set even you will loose the lock to lock

if you havnt got the gear ie turnplates just use a couple of biscuit tin lids to drive on;) set it by eye then get it to tyrebay to set it up properly,it wont kill your tyres in 4 miles
 
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wil2813 said:
quote (becuse the wheels are on the floor they will be hard to move . Put the fixed end in first tighten enough with the other end tight loosen until it fits , hey presto done tighten every thing up )

but if its not set even you will loose the lock to lock

if you havnt got the gear ie turnplates just use a couple of biscuit tin lids to drive on;) set it by eye then get it to tyrebay to set it up properly,it wont kill your tyres in 4 miles
Click to expand...
If the wheels are on the floor or blocks *after* you have broken the ball joint seal's both ends one at a time put the first ball joint back in and not turned the adjuster ball joint thread ,when the wheels are on the floor you won't be able to turn them.
The ends will fall out easy pop the new fixed end in the other end of the ball joint is ajustible it
won't go in until the ball joint is inline !
its simple enough :rolleyes:
What's the lock to lock got to do with it.
The point of the wheels not moving .... Is
If they move whilst the bar is off you have lost your original position .
If you clever like me you can change them an not need ajustment to what they originally were ;)
 
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Grit Valve said:
If the wheels are on the floor or blocks *after* you have broken the ball joint seal's both ends one at a time put the first ball joint back in and not turned the adjuster ball joint thread ,when the wheels are on the floor you won't be able to turn them.
The ends will fall out easy pop the new fixed end in the other end of the ball joint is ajustible it
won't go in until the ball joint is inline !
its simple enough :rolleyes:
What's the lock to lock got to do with it.
The point of the wheels not moving .... Is
If they move whilst the bar is off you have lost your original position .
If you clever like me you can change them an not need ajustment to what they originally were ;)
Click to expand...
yes grit see your point,after any steering component has been changed it will 100% need a alignment check without doubt
 
I got lemforder ones ones from island 4x4 ,they came almost bang on the right length from the factory ( tracking was only 1 mm out when I checked it with my gauges)and steering wheel centralise was only a few degrees out as well when drag link bar was fitted.cost around £145 delivered though are there not lengths for them to be set at in rave?
 
ive looked through rave and couldn't find the lengths on there but I found the toe in and toe out and camber specs. ive just done mine got both from island 4x4 and the same as dove almost the same length. ive driven on them for a week and tomorrow im taking it to get the tracking done(only hold up on getting tracking done is im a truck driver so time is limited) but the tracking doesn't seem to be too far out at all.
 
Tracking for the P38 is parallel to 1/16" toe out. So you would be pretty lucky to slap new on and get that without tracking gauges. It's important to set the track first, before fitting and adjusting the drag link.
 
oh I very much doubt its bang on wammers but it doesn't feel to bad mind you the track rod and drag link were totally shot so anything would feel better :D
 
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