DIY: Applying insulation to my Landy

Hi All,

I am looking at applying a good insulating material for Wheely (1995 Land Rover Defender 6x4) so that in my trips around Ghana and Africa I won't suffer too much from the engine heat nor the very loud engine noise


I bought 20mm Kaiflex https://uro-camper.com/tiendaonline...miento-termico-kaiflex-autoadhesivo-20mm.html (in spanish but you can ask google to translate the page)


I plan to cover it all top to bottom (all floors and the ceiling) - I removed the headlining and the original carpet as it was in horrible conditions.


I have a series of questions, but let’s start with the easy ones.


1) How do you recommend to treat the surface on which the material will go? Currently it’s bare metal ( a bit rusty). By this I mean, besides cleaning properly, do I need to paint with a special material (e.g. rust converter, waxoyl, …)

2) Since it will be applied where there were seats that are now removed and there are holes exposing it to the bottom of the vehicle/road, what should be done to cover the holes before applying the kaiflex on top

3) I've heard the moisture we produce while sleeping condenses on the steel panels, gets trapped in the insulation and causes rust. Between the steel panels and the insulating material do I need to put anything to prevent moist to get trapped and cause rust? Do I need to give a special treatment to the steel panels like they do here https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/camper-van-conversions

4) Do you recommend this material to be put also inside the battery box/tool box on the passenger side so to limit at most the heat coming from underneath

5) Whilst I am at it shall I also cover the front-vents to prevent any more dust from getting into the dashboard?

Thanks so ever much,

Simone

I don't know the answer to your questions but I'm sure some of the more qualified members will be along to help you out. What I would mention is on mine I did try insulating the floor foot wells which was a bad mistake. When it rains the water on mine drips in from around the front doors. I have managed to seal them up properly but it doesn't last long. The water collected under the insulation and rotted the foot wells. I ended up having to replace them. Also if your traversing rivers again water collects under the insulation. I now don't have any insulation or floor covering in the foot wells and they are fine. I would suggest a good insulation under the roof would be a good idea, stop the sun heating the inside up. I also had a full length roof rack which had boards across which also gave the roof a bit of shade. Did make quiet a difference. From a sound proofing point of view I fitted insulation under the bonnet. I bought it on eBay for about £75 which has reduced engine noise, I now find I enjoy listening to the sound of my engine and I can have a conversation. I wouldn't bother with insulating the battery or tool box, again will only cause a build up of rusting. A good insulation over the top of the battery box, under the seat works just as well I found. No matter what you do to the front vent , dust and sand will still get in. I did a Morocco trip almost three years ago and I still have sand appearing.
When I removed my rear bench seats I just used rubber bungs to seal up the bolt holes.
Good luck with your venture, don't forget to post pic's of your trip or even think about doing a blog.

bringing this up:
I have been doing some research and I think the following plan is the best one:

I would prep the panels by sand blasting them, then apply UPOL #8 Acid primer, then UPOL gravitex and then applying the Kaiflex on it (the Kaiflex would then be covered with metal sheets).

-Gravitex should help to deaden sound and vibrations (as per UPOL TDS)
-Kaiflex can be exposed to water as it is a closed cell PVC/NBR foam.
-I would apply rubber plugs to the holes (http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-plugs-m10/p405074)

...What are your thoughts on this?

i wouldn't sand blast ally

ok, sand-paper it with GRIT 80 ?

Thanks! very useful videos indeed from the Australian chap ! He just used dynamat and put the closed-cell only on ceiling and doors though...

He used a 3M sound deadening paint - can't find it in Europe - is there any you would recommend? Gravitex says to be sounddeadening in the TDS (attached)

There is this stuff. Rubberised sound reducing, rust stuff.

http://www.frost.co.uk/por-15-rubberized-under-coating-spray.html

I've not used it nor have any idea what it's like.