Distributor problem

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jrose

Active Member
Posts
102
Location
Basildon, Essex
Afternoon, I have not been able to start my 2.25 petrol, was working away so it had sat idle for quite a while, I fitted a new carb which it needed anyway, was getting good readings from my coil which was a pile of rust, so replaced that as well along with a new set of leads. I am getting a decent bright spark at the end of the lead that goes into the distributor, but nothing at the spark plugs, I have attached some photos of the innards of the distributor, the rotor arm seems a bit loose as in it has quite a bit of give in it, almost springy. Not sure what make and model the dizzy is, it's been converted to electronic ignition at some point, cant see any cracks or dampness inside, does it look excessively worn. Should I replace it.
 

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Nothing in your pics would give me much concern, maybe a weaker spark but you should still get 1.
Any details of the elecky dizzy and its wiring as that would be where I would look next.
Or go back to points:D.

J
 
I cant seem to find any info on the dizzy itself as to what make or model it is, im sure there should be markings on it somewhere. I'm googling at the moment.
Is it easy to go back to points.
 
I've checked the wiring and had wired the dizzy to the coil wrong. I had both black and red wires going to +ve and the white wire from the ignition going to -ve, schoolboy error, they are now correctly orientated with ted and white to +ve and black to -ve, she's still not starting, i may have to take some readings ofvthe dizzy innards to see if I've blown anything.
 
I don’t know if that’s the way elecky runs.

But if I said power 12v to coil+ then coil - goes to distributor then the other end goes to trigger/points then to earth.

I could be wrong but the main coil will only produce a spark when voltage is dropped on the field, it’s been a while need to dust off the memory.

J
 
If you're getting a spark from the coil output, then you must have the coil wired such that it's producing a spark, and the dizzy 'points' (or electronic equivalent) are working correctly.

I'd suggest the rotor arm is well worth replacing (cheap and easy), with the cap next on the list. the problem has got to lie around the cap, somewhere, assuming the new leads are all good (and the plugs, of course).

Maybe try to start it in the dark, and look for any arcing around the cap (or elsewhere). It might be cracked.
 
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