Discovery - things to look for / avoid

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markomate2 said:
I dont know why there is so much "fear" of the electronics!
In my experience, most issues that come up are more "mechanical" related, yes the injector loom will need replacing every year or so but most electronic issues are actually caused by trapped wires, damaged connectors, dirt/lack of maintenance etc.

If things like the ECU pack up, which is very rare, they can be sourced for under £100.
The only thing that will kill the engine dead is the crank sensor and thats easy to replace, so just keep a spare.

If any other sensors fail the ECU will work around the problem.
Injectors can fail, eventually! But again they are not difficult to swap.

Agree that air suspension is great!
Mark
Click to expand...

Many of the electrical problems on the Td5 Disco 2 are the result of moisture ingress, either because of condensation, bodywork leaks such as the sunroofs or driver error; thinking that the Discovery is amphibious and not just a 4x4 "go almost anywhere" vehicle.
Condensation and leaks can be sorted out with care and regular maintenance, I'm not sure about the third problem.
 
I got very "anoraky" about electrics and moisture a while ago.
Mainly because of a work project involving us installing battery powered systems that had to be water tight at 2m depth for two years!
Did a lot of research, the US military has loads of good info all free to download.
Ive also found that some protective sprays are better than others, WD40 is not always the best, it can attack some plastics/seals and actually cause connectors to leak!
The trick is to first clean the connector and contacts, IPA spray is best, but I also use "Kontakt 60". from RS #823-5329
You can buy IPA from Amazon, get a big bottle of it, much cheaper than the little tin of "MAF Cleaner"
Amazon product
Then you need to protect and lubricate the connector.
Ive found "CRC 2-26" works well, I get it from RS #780-5329 costs around £12
Ive sprayed all my underbonnet connects with these and so far not had any issues.
 
Earl said:
Hi all,

I have now accepted that i just can't afford to replace the defender after it was stolen, and having looked at some lovey toyotas i think i am ready to make the terrible and costly decision to stick with land rover - despite having had the 'experience' of D3 and a defender.

I have looked a few buying guides etc online, but wanted some first had advice on a couple of points that were not really mentioned.

I also thought i would clarify that this wont be a 'daily driver' but rather an adventure car, so some green laning, leading to longer expeditions, camping and the such. Budget no more than £3000. Max! Also I am not looking for a mud plugger or anything like that.

It seems to be the consensus that the TD5 is more refined - so i was looking for one of those - unless someone is doing to sing the praises of the 300TDi. My defender was a 300TDi, so i am familiar with it....

Secondly, are there mileage points to avoid, when things start to go wrong. For example i know that on a particular type of car, you dont want it much before 80K because the clutch and gearbox start to go, but after 100K you are grand as it would have been replaced. Are there any points like that i should be aware of?

Also interested in Auto/manual. When i was looking before I was only looking at manual due to fuel economy and reliability. Am i right in that?

Any other general observations & advice would be greatfully recieved.
Click to expand...
Hi when looking at D2 TD5s obviously the first thing to check is the rear chassis... Don't be shy have a good poke about... Also under the bonnet peal back the sound deadening at the bulkhead and check there... Also check it starts well from cold, make sure you ask the seller not to start it that day... Don't wait for heat, ignition on wait 2 seconds then swing it...if it starts easy and spring into life This gives a good indication of engine condition
 
markomate2 said:
I got very "anoraky" about electrics and moisture a while ago.
Mainly because of a work project involving us installing battery powered systems that had to be water tight at 2m depth for two years!
Did a lot of research, the US military has loads of good info all free to download.
Ive also found that some protective sprays are better than others, WD40 is not always the best, it can attack some plastics/seals and actually cause connectors to leak!
The trick is to first clean the connector and contacts, IPA spray is best, but I also use "Kontakt 60". from RS #823-5329
You can buy IPA from Amazon, get a big bottle of it, much cheaper than the little tin of "MAF Cleaner"
Amazon product
Then you need to protect and lubricate the connector.
Ive found "CRC 2-26" works well, I get it from RS #780-5329 costs around £12
Ive sprayed all my underbonnet connects with these and so far not had any issues.
Click to expand...


By IPA I assume your talking about Isopropyl alcohol. Would paint pre wipe be as good? 5L tin is as cheap as chips.
 
Some really great advice here thanks all. Any comments on the 'milage points' issue, or is it just a case of look hard and hope for the best!?
 
Any Disco 2 is now going to be at least 13 years old, so using the usual "standard" mileage for a second hand vehicle, I'd say that if you find one with fewer than 130,000 miles on the clock you're doing OK, just as long as everything works as expected.
TBH at these sorts of ages, actual condition is of more value in deciding than service histories or mileage.
 
Finding one that hasn't been welded will be hard to come by nowadays... But look hard enough there about!
 
Hi..no, it was about a pint of what looked to be Everards Old Original...although I can't say it tasted the same when I got a face full...there was a lot of Waxoil that I had to dig through (once I got the plastic grommet out) with a length of wire.
 
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