discovery td5 M and S light flashing?

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Ciaran666 said:
Well well turns out it wasnt the battery , but the XYZ switch. Plugged in at local indie. Faults showed XYZ or loom problem so they said they would change out switch and only charge me if it was the problem. They did it there and then and I have had no faults since but we will see this morning when I go out, only fly in ointment was a £ 284 plus vat for switch.
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I would say that they made you a very fair offer there. No problem fix - no pay.

Just hope it's long-term fixed. These issues have a nasty habit of returning.

Cheers
Dave
 
You can usually tell if its loom or switch from live data.If you move the shifter rapidly back and forth the display will flash an "Invalid" reading between actual positions if the switch is dying.If it only shows PRND321 no matter what you do with it then its usually the loom rubbing on top of the transfer box.But then I've seen the EAT ecu give similar symptoms whilst failing.:eek:
 
im after some advise changed the binnacle on my td5 discovery due to a few leds packed up, and now have the m and s lights flashing guessing the binnacle was from an auto, is there an easy fix to turn the lights of? cheers
 
gcoo8154 said:
im after some advise changed the binnacle on my td5 discovery due to a few leds packed up, and now have the m and s lights flashing guessing the binnacle was from an auto, is there an easy fix to turn the lights of? cheers
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You don't say but I'm assuming yours is a manual gearbox car? In that case you need to connect a diagnostic kit to the car to tell the BCU that you have a manual gearbox.
 
Mpower! said:
just got my discovery back driven it home about ten miles no problems! got home turned it off and back on again and the M and S lights are flashing up on the dash on my auto td5 and not letting me pull away very well, the revs rise but it feels like your slipping a clutch really bad.

anyone experianced this or know what it is? im assuming its a sensor? as the gearbox is fine not clunking and as i said it just drove me home 15 miles no problems at all.

thanks Mpower!
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Hi I was wondering I got the same issue and did the same bought a new switch and still the same did they sort yours out and what was the problem
 
malcolm jones said:
Hi I was wondering I got the same issue and did the same bought a new switch and still the same did they sort yours out and what was the problem
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Hi Malcolm I'm assuming that you're talking about the M & S lights flashing ? This can be caused by a number of things :

1. Lack on volts on start-up. If there is any weakness in the battery and if the driver turns the key straight to engine start (rather than leaving the key at pos. II for a couple of seconds to allow the transmission ECU to do it's test) then this will have a tendency to rob volts to the electronics and they throw their toys out the pram.

The way to avoid this is to ENSURE the battery is good and fully charged, or if there's any doubt replace. Once the battery is out of the way try turning the keys in a step by step way to allow the the ECU's to do their thing before starting the engine.

2. There is an electrical connector between the switch and the car loom. The loom side of the connector is prone to corrosion so needs thorough cleaning with 'switch cleaner'. Access to the connector is - as I found recently on a 2004 car - not easy.

3. Installing the new switch requires careful setting up, otherwise the fault will not be resolved.
 
thebiglad said:
Hi Malcolm I'm assuming that you're talking about the M & S lights flashing ? This can be caused by a number of things :

1. Lack on volts on start-up. If there is any weakness in the battery and if the driver turns the key straight to engine start (rather than leaving the key at pos. II for a couple of seconds to allow the transmission ECU to do it's test) then this will have a tendency to rob volts to the electronics and they throw their toys out the pram.

The way to avoid this is to ENSURE the battery is good and fully charged, or if there's any doubt replace. Once the battery is out of the way try turning the keys in a step by step way to allow the the ECU's to do their thing before starting the engine.

2. There is an electrical connector between the switch and the car loom. The loom side of the connector is prone to corrosion so needs thorough cleaning with 'switch cleaner'. Access to the connector is - as I found recently on a 2004 car - not easy.

3. Installing the new switch requires careful setting up, otherwise the fault will not be resolved.
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Hi I've replaced the xyz switch but when I plug in the hawk eye total it says there is a Perminant fault on the selector switch I know that. You got to be care ful setting them up but if it started it can't be that far out.also I have no selector lights on dash or gear selector lever do you have to set them up in nuetral and have some one sit in car and move it until n lights up
 
Using your Hawkeye you should be able to set the switch up so that it operates correctly. With the hawkeye connected and selecting the transmission ECU (EATS), get an assistant to select each position in turn and see what Hawkeye shows. Re-position the switch until the results on Hawkeye show the correct positions.
 
Don't know if the new total does to be honest I rang the developer who told me that the new machine as a few things missing off the old unit so got to wait for an upgrade but even if was set up wrong on box I should have the lights each side of gear-lever and on the clocks
 
malcolm jones said:
Don't know if the new total does to be honest I rang the developer who told me that the new machine as a few things missing off the old unit so got to wait for an upgrade but even if was set up wrong on box I should have the lights each side of gear-lever and on the clocks
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I'm not sure if you're right tbh, if the switch to ECU relationship is not re-established, the EATS will not send the signals to the BCU to illuminate the gear lever lights and dashboard indicator.
 
Hi I checked again the switch and tried to alter back and for with someone in cab but nothing the other strange thing is it will start in any gear selector when you plug in the hawk eye it shows it's stuck in 4 th gear and the value on the selector is showing 0000 also showing the voltage when not running at 12.44 and running at 14.33
 
The voltages are OK that way, as @thebiglad said, the signals from the switch dont reach theyr destination so if you are 100% sure the switch is good you have to follow the wiring
 
Yep switch is brand new I've got an auto electricians number as I hate car electrics and don't no have much clue give me any mechanics lol so might give him a ring unless it's a gearbox issue with hats causing all this grief
 
I had a problem like you and eventually traced it to a fault in the bcu which intermittently was failing to supply power to the wxyz circuits in the switch.
To check this, With the ignition at position 2, test for 12 volts at pin 8 in CO675 , this is the connection of the xyz switch to the wiring harness a picture of which you will find in the electrical library.
If you don't have a copy of electrical library, on my xyz switch pin three bottom right is missing ( as it is unused) and the pins are numbered left to right so with pin 3 bottom right missing, pin 8 is top left.
The colour of the wire to socket 8 in the harness connector you need to check is NP (brown/purple).
Failure of this power input may explain why you cannot synchronise your switch and why you have no selector lights or digital gear position display.
If this is the case there is a wiring fix you can do to bypass the bcu.
 
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