Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

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Cheers mate,

I am not happy that I still have some welding to do but on the whole it went along easily. I have some patches to do around the front of the inner wing at the base. a
Also the inner arch to the rear is all gone so there is a big panel to do there and it is tricky as I bet you know.

What I plan on doing eventually is take tree sliders off the bottom face and brace back to the outside face. This should make them strong and quite neat.
 
You've just gotta take it a few hours at a time, and then before you know it it's done. Of you consider the job as a whole you'll blow your brains and feel like giving up!

It's gonna be superb when youre done, kind of resto-modded.

Sweet :)
 
Yeah I know what you mean. I have been resisting the urge to list all the jobs needed but daren't.

I am enjoying it and trying to do the best I can with the tools and environment I have available. All in all it's pretty good.

Just read the thread of the guy who has bob tailed his Disco. I really fancy the workshop - I could have some fun in that!!!!
 
You're doing a great job.
I find it really hard if I start thinking about everything I need doing.
It's much easier one small job at a time.

This is how I've done my sills (well one for now)
It's 100x100x4mm
I cut in on 2 sides then turned it over and welded it back in.
The bit under the door will get some smaller box welded to it for sliders.



 
My D1 (5 door) has just failed its mot. Needs new o/s inner rear wheel arch and new n/s rear body mount.

Welding is a dark art to me so I need to pay for it to be done just wanted to know if they are pigs of a job and roughly what is involved or rough ideas fo costs so I dont get ripped off.

Love the D1 and its daily drive and does everything cmaping with kids, green lanes etc but if its gonna be hundreds it may have to go :mad:

any help appreciated
 
Eskdale Green..... mmm I like that colour...... thank you very much for that Green Hornet, you may see another one some time...

Now to look for the RAL colour......
 
Stu2985, inner and outer sills are quite easy to do and are fairly straight forward to repair. Even my sills where I cut them all out only took a couple of hours to prep. If I were to repair the three areas only then two hours would have done it. However you never know what you may find once you start!

For the rear body mounts they are a little more awkward due to access. Easy for me as I dropped the tank.

All in all labour is the big expense. Agree a price before hand. Finally, it may be an expense to repair but what else would replace a discovery. Especially if you already know the vehicle and trust it.

James.WB
Nice work on your sills. Neat idea and one I would probably do myself if I have to replace these sills ever again.

Big Stu 12,

Sorry I can't help you out with the RAL number but I agree it is a nice colour.


Thank you all for your encouragement.
 
Well the suspension is starting to come together and tonight I have been spending my dosh at all sorts of places - umm sounds naughty:D

Anyhow the rundown so far is this

  • 3" springs all round by mm4x4
  • New rear shock mounts to go with +5 terrafirma shocks
  • Front +2 skeleton turrets for use with +5 shocks
  • Terrafirma dislocation cones complete with hooking mechanism to catch springs at full articulation

All I need know are the extended hoses and spring retainers along with HD turret rings. Then I will get the trailing arms and once fitted I will see if I need the castor correction arms or bushes.

Oh bugger - better order the shocks too:doh:
 
Ian I will got that steel from you mate i've just been flat out with my garage build.

Wow and I thought I had been spending this week, popped in to challenger4x4 in tongham and got a + 2" procomp lift kit and a 2" body lift to thats my weekend sorted, oh better get some brake hoses thinking about spend spend spend!!!
 
Mr Noisy,

The set up should be good and articulation is the main thing I am going for. On that subject I am wondering if I can invert dislocation cones on the front axle?

For the rear I have chosen the terrafirma items with a hook as once the spring dislocates it is caught by the hook which transfers the axles weight to the chassis increasing unstrung weight which should help the rear of the car behave itself if the momentum means that the wheels will be leaving the ground. Another benefit of the hook system is that when jacking the car up, prior to doing so you can insert a tyre lever in the spring and it stop the axle articulating when jacking up. Unfortunately you can't take the sodding wheel off as your tyre lever is jammed in the suspension but you get my drift.:blabla:

However at the front I am not sure about the normal top mounted dislocation tubes. Looking at the vehicle I am sure that I could drill a set of rear dislocation cones to fit at the bottoml of the front springs.

Finally I am really stoked -wow an eighties saying that makes me out to be an old tosser:doh: - about the skeleton turrets. They look awesome -**** another eighties memory rekindled by teenagers of today:doh: - plus the extra height will aid in the axle articulation according to Gwynn Lewis who I spoke to today. His kit is good but very expensive. I realise you get what you pay for but I will progress to his equiipment rather that start at £1200. I didn't pay that for the car.:D

Matt,

I will be working on the car on Saturday and Sunday if the weather is fine. Failing that I will help you finish your workshop and tow it down to you :D:D

Don't forget
 
I was gonna say, look to Glyn Lewis for the tasty bits, in particular dislocation cone designs etc.

Having not really dabbled in dislocation, I'm no expert, but Glyn sure is!

Can you pick me up a hydro steer kit whilst you're on to him and I'll pay you later cheers :)
 
Can you pick me up a hydro steer kit whilst you're on to him and I'll pay you later cheers :)

Ha:hysterically_laughi ha you're a funny man

I spoke to him at length this afternoon and he has a nice attitude.

On another subject - following on from the wheels actually. I may have to settle for -32mm offset rims in the 15x10 configuration. Do you know if these will foul the chassis and steering? I realise that your -50mm offset is fine.

Cheers
 
Just uploaded my avatar :) - see getting into this already - No jokes about only having a little prick:hysterically_laughi

Matt - I know youre in the market for a tank guard. If you want one similar to Marks then lets measure his and I will model it up and get a couple laser cut and powder coated. I have a few ideas about building in a HD bumper with winch mount too if that sounds funky.

PM me or get my phone number off Mark

Cheers
 
Tbh Ian I really don't know. They will be 18mm further in than mine. This will bring 12.5" tyres approx in line with the outer edge of 50mm arches, as mine stick out a bit.

They probably won't rub, can always adjust steering stops.

Best is to speak to craig at garageand4x4 and ask his opinion. I can always take a look at mine and see what the chances of rub are.

Cheers
 
Tbh Ian I really don't know. They will be 18mm further in than mine. This will bring 12.5" tyres approx in line with the outer edge of 50mm arches, as mine stick out a bit.
Cheers

Thank Matey,

Just ordered 4 15x10's with -32mm offset at £32.00 each. if they don't work for me they can always be played with or sold on. I just have to decide and get things moving as I am procrastinating a little :(

But hey nearly all the suspension and wheels have been purchased tonight and at a reasonable price - :eek: once i have the guts to break it down later :)

Cheers for your help.
 
Matt,

I will be working on the car on Saturday and Sunday if the weather is fine. Failing that I will help you finish your workshop and tow it down to you :D:D

Don't forget


lol no probs although if the roof isnt done you would get just as wet :doh:

Will pop down on either saturday after work(5ish?) or sunday daytime 2pm ish?

Tank guard sounds like a plan as I am thinking along the same lines but have had a price of £165 delivered need to work out costs of the steel and not sure if my welder (150amp) is up to it either :eek:
 
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