Discovery 300tdi MOT Due

Hey guys well after eBay has let me down with the offers being less then the engines value I am gonna keep the beast and well let it fail its mot and start on the list. I dont mind having it off the road for a month or 2.

I know of some faults that need repairing the main is Inner and Outer Sills now I'm no welder I can get hold of a welder but high voltage scares the S*** out of me. But should I learn how to weld or just invest in a prof welder for this MOT? And if I should learn what type arc or mig?

2nd swivel pin needs replacing I am pretty happy to do this

3rd issue a cracked windscreen but the top lip has a rust bubble and ill need to cut it out and patch it up. But the issue is with no mot I won't be fully comp and will have to payout a load for a windscreen? Or can I be fully comp with no mot?

Then there is the brake fluid loss and I believe its the cylinder as the brake pressure goes soft after the engine starts.

I'm sure there will be more but the way I see it this investment should make it last longer or another year lol

mig welder - do it yoself - about £200 a side in parts from YRM. you will, undoubtably need rear wheelarch panels, footwell panels and floormounts while you are at it.

And yes, you can be fully comp with no mot

Get the screen done before the test is done. Buy a mig and diy, much more satisfying

Buy a MIG I just have and tried it at the weekend and I was amazed how easy it was. Once I turned the gas on

Thanks for the input guys I shall invest in a MIG, also I heard you can use box sections as replacements for.the Sills if so would 100x60x 3mm thick be ok?

o0oBenjio0o said:

Thanks for the input guys I shall invest in a MIG, also I heard you can use box sections as replacements for.the Sills if so would 100x60x 3mm thick be ok?

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Yes box is fine, that size is commonly used,I did it with slightly bigger and heavier stuff but I batter mine off road every week. 200 a side is pricey if you ask me, buy the box and a Sheet of 1.5mm loads of cutting discs and crack on, as a guide my box came in at about 30 quid and the sheet @20 for 1 mtr x 2 mtr. Remember loads of pics for us guys.

Thanks discopol, ever little helps ill stock up on discs and I shall take many pics if I remember and if the weather is nice to me only problem living in the coast.

by the time yu have added inner and outer sills, body mounts, floor mounts, rear arch closure plates, lower wheel arch repairs, A, B & possibly Cpost repairs. Repairs to the floor and bulkhead, you wont get any change out of 200 notes per side. Particularly if yu get YRM panels - well worth it IMHO.

The Mad Hat Man said:

by the time yu have added inner and outer sills, body mounts, floor mounts, rear arch closure plates, lower wheel arch repairs, A, B & possibly Cpost repairs. Repairs to the floor and bulkhead, you wont get any change out of 200 notes per side. Particularly if yu get YRM panels - well worth it IMHO.

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all that to make it look pretty on a 300tdi???? sorry Daft but you are being, its an old disco, box and sheet and some time spent working out what needs doing and how to do it seems much more sensible to me.

DiscoPol said:

all that to make it look pretty on a 300tdi???? sorry Daft but you are being, its an old disco, box and sheet and some time spent working out what needs doing and how to do it seems much more sensible to me.

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What's wrong with "prettifying" a Discovery with OEM panels? Give it 20 years and you'll struggle to find a D1 in original condition.
One of Nicola's pupils parents was chatting to us last night about her first landy - a series 1 with an extra engine for 40 quid. Look what original spec S1's go for now? There was a time when they were "just an old land rover", eh?

Not being into box section/welding etc - but doesn't anyone supply 100x60x3mm as suggested in ally??

Would it be up to the job?

If I'm being particularly thick and steel is the only option then please ignore me!

I'm pretty sure ally can't be welded to steel, so that might not work

o0oBenjio0o said:

I'm no welder I can get hold of a welder but high voltage scares the S*** out of me. But should I learn how to weld or just invest in a prof welder for this MOT? And if I should learn what type arc or mig?

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That is a loaded question, it really depends how practical you are, and if can get your mind round the process and technique required to weld quickly enough to make it a feasible DIY project.

There are NO high voltages involved, it's like a jet wash lots of speed and ability do something, in this case clean off dirt, but not much water, that's like your voltage. A big hose running a full flow will not go very far like the jet wash but boy does it deliver a heap over water, that's current, and without the power of the jet, it cannot penetrate your skin and get you - very simply put.

You really want a MIG for this sort of work, ALL electric welding is arc welding, the arc is simply the electrical energy being used to create intense heat.

Now the reason you want a MIG: I have 3 welders all set up for different jobs, my stick welder is great for welding things like fence posts and girders, I can easily weld with it on stock down to about 2mm using a 1.2mm rod, more difficult to strike up than a 3.2 which is ideal for bigger stock but once it get's thinner than 2, or if your welding metal that has thinned due to rust and you have to start doing small welds moving along, welding another bit, move back to the cooled but or you just blow holes in the metal. However, benefits include being able to use this outside as the weld is protected by the flux coating on the rod. This however leaves a coating on it, which on a good weld will chip off in a chunk, but anything less than a good clean weld and it will just look terrible and needs poked and ground down and refilled to make it look even.

MIG uses a roll of wire, which is commonly 0.6mm or 0.8mm or 1mm, with 0.6mm wire fitted you can turn the current right down, and weld thin stuff easily, you can also turn the current up a bit and weld thicker stuff but you use heaps of wire as it melts into the weld and if you put the current up too much the wire will melt before it gets anywhere near the weld pool and the welds are weak and look terrible, so you would up your wire size to suit. I usually have 0.8mm in the machine and find I can weld anything from thinned chassis's to bits of 5mm steel if need be.

MIG is protected by a shielding gas, usually a CO2/Argon blend for mild steel, this makes for nice clean looking welds, however the wind will blow the gas away, so you need to be able to weld in a shielded area or inside.

My 3rd welder is an older MIG that I have set up with flux cored wire, which means I can if need be weld outside, however the weld quality is not as good and I generally don't like the stuff, but it gives you the option to have the MIG welder which will probably be more useful for vehicle work and just keep standard wire, flux cored wire and a bottle of gas to suit the job or weather!

beerdude said:

I'm pretty sure ally can't be welded to steel, so that might not work

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As he says you can't weld the two together - why would you want to use aluminium?