Discovery 2 V8 Measure Battery Voltage using Nanocom
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sierrafery
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sierrafery
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there are all kind of small voltmeters which can be fitted to the dash or binnaclle, i addapted one to a blank switch wired to the interior fusebox's ignition live
sierrafery
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1) 12.7V means fully charged battery
2) depends what auxiliary systems are on, it's irrelevant
3) around 14V (+/- 0.5)
as long as you get constantly around 14V with engine running the alternator is working albeit the ONLY 100% certain way to diagnose it is with oscilloscope cos it has 8 diodes in the rectifier pack and if only one is shot it will still charge the battery showing 14V DC but there will be a higher than normal quiescent draw and not healthy for the battery on a long run, explained here https://autoedu.info/en/auto-electric/alternator/oscilloscope-alternator-test/
sierrafery
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The alternator seems ok, charge the battery with a smart charger to full(disconnected from the vehicle) let it unplugged over night and measure voltage then, if it drops below 12.6V you need a new one
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discool
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My D1 turns over and fires with my Fluke multimeter showing a battery voltage which of 10.5V which is after of three weeks unused.
My meter is handed over for certification every year along with the Fluke meters the firms five engineers use, they all come back with a spec stating over reading of 2% on DC so just the same when brand new.
The only true voltage reading is via our workshops scope. which ours is hardly portable and is 22 years old and unused, but kept just in case.
As for my battery interest with cars, the engine either starts or it doesn’t
My meter is handed over for certification every year along with the Fluke meters the firms five engineers use, they all come back with a spec stating over reading of 2% on DC so just the same when brand new.
The only true voltage reading is via our workshops scope. which ours is hardly portable and is 22 years old and unused, but kept just in case.
As for my battery interest with cars, the engine either starts or it doesn’t
My D1 turns over and fires with my Fluke multimeter showing a battery voltage which of 10.5V which is after of three weeks unused.
My meter is handed over for certification every year along with the Fluke meters the firms five engineers use, they all come back with a spec stating over reading of 2% on DC so just the same when brand new.
The only true voltage reading is via our workshops scope. which ours is hardly portable and is 22 years old and unused, but kept just in case.
As for my battery interest with cars, the engine either starts or it doesn’t
hahahah true - I am just trying to avoid being stranded - and detect when a preventive maintenance is needed.
discool
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Ok I expect it’s where you are in the world if it happens.
I have always carried jump leads but never used them and will not to be of used on modern cars maybe, as “jump packs” are now promoted for modern cars, but I will still carry on paying for road side rescue, just in case, a brand new battery can’t help me if a ECU fails as can do sometimes .
Yes, these are also widely available here. But other than being smaller, carrying an extra battery and jump leads seems to be just betterOk I expect it’s where you are in the world if it happens.
I have always carried jump leads but never used them and will not to be of used on modern cars maybe, as “jump packs” are now promoted for modern cars, but I will still carry on paying for road side rescue, just in case, a brand new battery can’t help me if a ECU fails as can do sometimes .
discool
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Two batteries with dual charging is a common modification discussed in the forums for Land Rovers with batteries positioned in the the engine bay I believe.
And as its something thats not applicable to me, I turned over to another page
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10.5v is that a typo?My D1 turns over and fires with my Fluke multimeter showing a battery voltage which of 10.5V which is after of three weeks unused.
My meter is handed over for certification every year along with the Fluke meters the firms five engineers use, they all come back with a spec stating over reading of 2% on DC so just the same when brand new.
The only true voltage reading is via our workshops scope. which ours is hardly portable and is 22 years old and unused, but kept just in case.
As for my battery interest with cars, the engine either starts or it doesn’t
discool
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No, its surprising isn’t it, the drain from the D1 battery causing that amount of voltage lost, but its better than my brothers jag as he found out when he arrived back to the uk and collected his car at the airport car park after just two weeks. V8 same battery.
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