Discovery 2 TD5 Donor Conversion

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GTRekky

Member
Posts
20
Hi there,

I am currently in the process of trying to restore my 2002 Discovery 2 TD5. The engine was knackered, and the car’s interior had been stripped but I found a salvage vehicle with a low mileage, 15p engine and landmark interior (2004 MY)

My intentions were to completely strip both vehicles of engine/ gearbox, interior and wiring and transplant all the bits from the 04 donor vehicle, into the preface lift 02.

I have completed most of the mechanical / wiring swap but having trouble now getting the vehicle to start. I have the engine loom, main interior loom and dash loom installed, along with the speedometer. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump priming but then which I flick the key to the third position, there is no crank.

I have tried resetting the inertia switch & EKA code, however the alarm constantly chimes when I open the door and I’m also not getting any signs of power to the dash cluster / speedo. Any suggestions on where to start investigating on this?

Many thanks,

Ben
 
Hi, the main issue is actually there:
GTRekky said:
I’m also not getting any signs of power to the dash cluster / speedo
Click to expand...
so you'll have to double check what you missed at the interior fusebox which must power up the dash while it's a part of the immobiliser too in relation with the BCU, they must be sync'd to remobilise the vehicle and as long as no power to the IP something is missing there so that's where you should insist, once you have power to the dash with everything working and still immobilised we'll speak then, untill then i can't help much remotely without seing myself what's going on with a kind'a bastardised vehicle while i'm not sure that everything is according to the diagrams

did you swap the whole dash wiring from the facelift into the early modell, IDM(interior fusebox) and BCU included?... there are differencies between the two modells wiring and fusebox wise...if you didnt swap the entire harness just parts of it that's a problem
 
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Legend! Thanks for confirming that Sierra 👍 I had a feeling that the IP was a key component in the loop so to speak. I'll double check all the wiring and report back.

Yes I did swap all the wiring and modules etc from the facelift into the original vehicle, IDM and BCU included.

All the earthing points from all the looms are bolted down, although I do have a few missing bits from the dash section of the harness such as the radio, heater buttons, IP surround buttons, airbag etc as the dash is currently out. I'm working under the assumption that the IP will still work even with these unplugged?
Could this be a foolish assumption?
 
GTRekky said:
I had a feeling that the IP was a key component in the loop so to speak
Click to expand...
Not the IP(instrument pack) itself but the fact that it doesnt work makes me think that something is missing at the IDM cos that's part of the immobiliser.... the instrument pack should work without radio or other dash switches as long as it has earth and gets everything from the interior fusebox
 
You were spot on mate 🤟 feel like a right donut, left one grey plug off the top right of the IDM. Good news is I now have power to the IP and all looks to be working correctly but still not able to start it? Shall I swap the drivers doors so the lock matches the key and then try the eka code again?
 
GTRekky said:
Shall I swap the drivers doors so the lock matches the key and then try the eka code again?
Click to expand...
Yes, you should try that if the fob doesnt work though a nanocom or similar would be compulsory for such work cos other BCU programmings are also necessary if the old D2 was not exactly with the same systems like the donor... are you 100% certain that the EKA code is the one saved in the BCU? i mean did you insert it at a time in the past and worked?
 
I never got any paperwork with the donor vehicle (04 facelift) but I went to land rover this afternoon with ownership documents and they gave me the 4 digit EKA code.
Lent my Nanocom to a mate to borrow over the weekend but getting it back on Wednesday so can check the code then. Don't suppose there is a way to bypass it in the meantime if not? 🤞
 
No, and nanocom is useles as well untill it's immobilised so you'll have o remobilise it with EKA before you go to programming... i didnt try myself but i've seen some comments that you can read the EKA even if it's immobilised , i'm a bit unsure of that
 
sierrafery said:
No, and nanocom is useles as well untill it's immobilised so you'll have o remobilise it with EKA before you go to programming... i didnt try myself but i've seen some comments that you can read the EKA even if it's immobilised , i'm a bit unsure of that
Click to expand...
When I'm inputting the EKA code into the door, do all the doors and tailgate have to be closed. Just a thought but the tailgate electrics aren't currently wired up and wondering if that's stopping it from working?
 
GTRekky said:
When I'm inputting the EKA code into the door, do all the doors and tailgate have to be closed. Just a thought but the tailgate electrics aren't currently wired up and wondering if that's stopping it from working?
Click to expand...
I dont think they all have to be closed as it's not mentioned anywhere but if the circuit for a door is not there it's considered closed by the BCU as the door switches are N/O for closed door and they close to earth when the door is opened so open circuit on that path means closed door
 
So I got my Nanocom back today and tried to access the BCU to check the EKA I'm trying to enter is correct but it's coming up with an error saying "Unable to start communications with the ECU"

Do you think this is due to the ECU being immobilized?

IMG_20241113_170145.jpg
 
Thanks Sierrafery. I'll try and figure that out as the next step 😂. Is it true that after inputting EKA code, I have to wait for 5 mins then there is a 30 second window to get the keys in the ignition?
 
GTRekky said:
Thanks Sierrafery. I'll try and figure that out as the next step 😂. Is it true that after inputting EKA code, I have to wait for 5 mins then there is a 30 second window to get the keys in the ignition?
Click to expand...
I've never had to use EKA myself as i have two working fobs and a spare receiver within reach all the time + this THIS but i think you must follow the procedure EXACTLY as stated albeit i dont know if it's true or not :p :
 

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sierrafery said:
I've never had to use EKA myself as i have two working fobs and a spare receiver within reach all the time + this THIS but i think you must follow the procedure EXACTLY as stated albeit i dont know if it's true or not :p :
Click to expand...
Progress! 😂 After speaking to my main dealer a few times today and being given multiple codes, I finally got the correct EKA code and it worked! :)
I now have full access on Nanocom and can start digging deeper into why its not starting.

When I turn the key to position 3 (start) I can hear a click from the fuse box in the engine bay but still no attempts to crank.

The transfer box is not currently attached and I thought that the engine may possibly be earthed from this. To eliminate this as a possibility I have used a jump lead from the engine to the chassis to ensure its grounded adequately.

Still confused as to why no crank 😂😭.
Thanks for all your help so far Sierrafery.

Ben
 
Check the spade connector to the starter solenoid to be tight, remove the starter relay and bridge the perpendicular cavities in the fusebox(where the relay's contact goes) if still nothing from the starter see if you get voltage to the solenoid with bridged relay and if you do the starter is dead, if no voltage we'll speak then
 
sierrafery said:
Check the spade connector to the starter solenoid to be tight, remove the starter relay and bridge the perpendicular cavities in the fusebox(where the relay's contact goes) if still nothing from the starter see if you get voltage to the solenoid with bridged relay and if you do the starter is dead, if no voltage we'll speak then
Click to expand...
She started! Thanks so much for the advice, really appreciate it 😁 the connector in the plug for the exciter wire had come loose in the fuse box (small brown plug). Fired up a treat and sounds good. Time to get the rest of the truck built up 😊.
 
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