Discovery 2 LSD or lockers

So at the weekend while attending a pay and play day my rear diff decided to blow up and send bits through my axle casing. I think too much right foot was the issue
I'm stuck between wether to get a locker or limited slip diff. What does everyone recommend?

I've literally only just bought an Ashcroft locker. Stronger but more expensive than an LSD. Also need to consider Halfshafts with lockers. and compressors.

Do you have central diff lock?

sierrafery said:

Do you have central diff lock?

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Good question, because without it a locker is not going to be a lot of use to you.

sierrafery said:

Do you have central diff lock?

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Yes I do have centre diff lock
Would it still be a good idea changing the shafts with an lsd?

Dan simpson said:

Yes I do have centre diff lock
Would it still be a good idea changing the shafts with an lsd?

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IMO not cos it can come into conflict with the electronic traction control(i'm up to discuss about this statement of mine with anybody who knows exactly how the TC works)... if you have huge tyres better work on the ratios to addapt it to the higher load rather than spend on lockers

Ive an LSD in my 110 with a rear LSD and works brilliantly. Basically as soon asthe TC kicks in the rear axle is locked.

No sodding around with compressors and airlines either.

sierrafery said:

IMO not cos it can come into conflict with the electronic traction control(i'm up to discuss about this statement of mine with anybody who knows exactly how the TC works)... if you have huge tyres better work on the ratios to addapt it to the higher load rather than spend on lockers

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In my mind with diff lock on, front and rear axles are driven at same speed so no issue with traction control there. The traction control works on the brakes on each individual wheel so theoretically 1 wheel that slipping will be braked to increase traction on the opposite wheel. With a fully locking air locker not LSD both wheels on the axle will turn at same speed so still no issues with traction control, at least that’s how mine worked when I had a D2.

johnlad said:

In my mind with diff lock on, front and rear axles are driven at same speed so no issue with traction control there. The traction control works on the brakes on each individual wheel so theoretically 1 wheel that slipping will be braked to increase traction on the opposite wheel. With a fully locking air locker not LSD both wheels on the axle will turn at same speed so still no issues with traction control, at least that’s how mine worked when I had a D2.

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That's if you have standard dimension tyres and lockers on both axles, but if you have LSD or locker only on one axle and one wheel on the other axle starts slipping the problem begins(provided it's facelift or the diff-lock input wire is cut on older modells which is quite common)... the TC on the D2 is more complex than it's explained in RAVE, it takes 3 pages in a wabco document with various graphs, even the engine speed and VSS are part of the algorythm not only the individual wheel speeds... but i dont want to go deep into this, i've done it frew times without much success.

sierrafery said:

That's if you have standard dimension tyres and lockers on both axles, but if you have LSD or locker only on one axle and one wheel on the other axle starts slipping the problem begins(provided it's facelift or the diff-lock input wire is cut on older modells which is quite common)... the TC on the D2 is more complex than it's explained in RAVE, it takes 3 pages in a wabco document with various graphs, even the engine speed and VSS are part of the algorythm not only the individual wheel speeds... but i dont want to go deep into this, i've done it frew times without much success.

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So basically to make it work without any problems I best put LSD in front as well when I replace the rear? If I start it up with difflock engaged the abs light and traction control light come on. Is that the same as just having the wire cut ?

Elaborate on the wire cut?

As I said ive had an LSD (Ashcroft ATB) in the rear of my 110 XS (So ABS/TC) since late last year, I drive hard both on and off road and never had any issues apart from blowing a CV but I was being a hooligan in the snow.

Recently did a heavy off roading session in France and zero issues, probably worth mentioning my 110 is also highly tuned.

Problems can happen with lockers and TC.

If you have questions i would suggest calling Nige at Xcess 4x4. He knows diffs inside and out as well as how they react with TC.

bankz5152 said:

Elaborate on the wire cut?

As I said ive had an LSD (Ashcroft ATB) in the rear of my 110 XS (So ABS/TC) since late last year, I drive hard both on and off road and never had any issues apart from blowing a CV but I was being a hooligan in the snow.

Recently did a heavy off roading session in France and zero issues, probably worth mentioning my 110 is also highly tuned.

Problems can happen with lockers and TC.

If you have questions i would suggest calling Nige at Xcess 4x4. He knows diffs inside and out as well as how they react with TC.

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I seen somewhere about cutting a wire on the slabs ecu when installing difflock.
Thanks bankz5152. Who isn't a hooligan when the snow arrives ? Haha
So you would definitely recommend the Ashcroft ATB? It's the one I have been looking at.
Thanks everyone for the advice and information

Dan simpson said:

I seen somewhere about cutting a wire on the slabs ecu when installing difflock.
Thanks bankz5152. Who isn't a hooligan when the snow arrives ? Haha
So you would definitely recommend the Ashcroft ATB? It's the one I have been looking at.
Thanks everyone for the advice and information

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I was doing donuts in a carpark and it went pop I believe the TC was partly to blame as the side that went bang was CAKED in brake dust where as the other 3 corners where not.

Hmmm never read anything myself! Got a linky? Im interested.

Personally was guna have a TC Off switch made up

I would reccomend the Ashcroft ATB its taken a fair bit of abuse over the past 8/9 months. I reccomend Xcess4x4 even more for the supply and case fitting.

I honestly just could not be assed to fit a compressor and lines. LSD kicks in when it wants to which is usually when I want it to lol

bankz5152 said:

I was doing donuts in a carpark and it went pop I believe the TC was partly to blame as the side that went bang was CAKED in brake dust where as the other 3 corners where not.

Hmmm never read anything myself! Got a linky? Im interested.

Personally was guna have a TC Off switch made up

I would reccomend the Ashcroft ATB its taken a fair bit of abuse over the past 8/9 months. I reccomend Xcess4x4 even more for the supply and case fitting.

I honestly just could not be assed to fit a compressor and lines. LSD kicks in when it wants to which is usually when I want it to lol

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LSD is ok until you lift a wheel then you loose motion as lsd multiplies torque from slipping wheel to none slipping one, but multiple’s of nothing equals no motion.
Whereas a fully locking axle will drive both wheels even if one is of the floor.
Which is the main reason there used by serious off roaders

johnlad said:

LSD is ok until you lift a wheel then you loose motion as lsd multiplies torque from slipping wheel to none slipping one, but multiple’s of nothing equals no motion.
Whereas a fully locking axle will drive both wheels even if one is of the floor.
Which is the main reason there used by serious off roaders

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Cured by a touch of brakes or TC which means the LSD locks up and you have drive.

Better not mix the fender's TC with the D2's cos they are different, the defender's is more rudimentary and works exclusively based on wheel speed inputs while the D2 has a complex management which uses engine speed and VSS too.... with the pre-facelift D2's no probs witlh TC and lockers conflict as long as the two warning lights are on cos it means that the TC is inhibited... that wire-cut mod is about cutting the CDL input to the SLABS so the ECU doesnt know the diff is locked and TC works at full capacity which can lead to brake overheating and extra load on the engine which can make it stall if it's not in low when it's more important to have power unless it's in low ratio which will force the wheels against the brakes when the TC kicks in... facelift D2s have an uprated SLABS which is set to work together with the CDL but not with locked diff on one axle.... if boths axle are with lockers the TC is useless... so it is to own a D2 which has active traction control systems if you put lockers on it like it was a D1 without TC, IMO the TC as long as it's used well it's more efficient than rudimentary axle lockers which can lead to broken shafts or cv joints

IMO a well running D2 with CDL doesnt need any locker cos it's capable enough with it's factory enhancements as long as the driver knows what he's doing cos there are well studied driving techniques to gain the max of it