Discovery 2 ACE removal kit

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discojock

New Member
Posts
15
Location
Nottingham
HI.

I have removed the rear suspension air bags and fitted a 2" lift kit front and rear i am wanting to remove the ACE system due to the pump being noisy does anyone know where i can get a front and rear anti roll bar kit including pulleys etc i have heard there could be a problem getting a rear anti roll bar that fits.Any info would be great.
 
Just my opinion, DLS screwed me around terribly. Parts didn't arrive, then bits lost. Better to order the parts separately.
 
Hello everyone, I'm new here and I've found the thread on ACE removal really helpful. My ACE system is leaking from one pipe at the block under the drivers seat. I have unless anyone can convince me otherwise to get the ACE removed. I'm not confident enough to do it myself so have got a quote £668 seems expensive to me? Or do I bite the bullet?
 
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Hello again, very urgent - - - please
I have now sealed the ace leak on the block the best I can.I began to refill the reservoir but as the oil reached the top it would go no further! Obviously there is air in the system.Besides having to take the fan belt off to get to the pump, is there an easier way to bleed the system? I would take it for a short drive but the RED light comes on immediately together with the warning tone! Any help much appreciated!
Is there an easier way to bleed the ace system other than having to take the drive belt off?
 
iamthewelshtaffy said:
Hello again, very urgent - - - please
I have now sealed the ace leak on the block the best I can.I began to refill the reservoir but as the oil reached the top it would go no further! Obviously there is air in the system.Besides having to take the fan belt off to get to the pump, is there an easier way to bleed the system? I would take it for a short drive but the RED light comes on immediately together with the warning tone! Any help much appreciated!
Is there an easier way to bleed the ace system other than having to take the drive belt off?
Click to expand...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/ace-bleeding-281803.html#post3468731
 
We have taken ACE off both of our D2 V8's.

Handling is no different in my view than with it fitted, but then I don't go cornering on the door handles anyway.

Some of the pipes at the front have to be cut to get them out, I did mine on my own over a quiet weekend.

You'll need an angle grinder with cutting discs to get the ARB links removed.

You'll probably need:

Front & Rear ARB's
ARB rubbers
ARB links (2 front 2 rear AND the nuts for them which I think is M12 Fine thread
New auxiliary belt and possibly an idler pulley.

Mine and my son's have been done for a year, he has Terrafirma 2" lift kit fitted, was air-sprung. Mine is on standard springs.

Worth doing once the system starts playing up, I was getting random warning light coming on when on long trips, filter was seized in the valve block, pipes were crusty but not leaking. Early build pipes appear to be heavier gauge steel than later, mine is November 1998 build date. Parts are expensive when they are available, no other vehicle has the system or common parts as far as I can tell.

Those who say it is vastly different without ACE must be seeing or sensing something I am not, and don't forget that LR sold Discoveries without ACE, it was an option.

Peter
 
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I took ACE off our D2 as it leaked pretty much from day 1. As I intended to put a 2" lift on it I did a sneaky anti-roll bar upgrade. The SLS and non SLS rear anti roll bars are different - the SLS one is 29mm and the non SLS one is 19mm IIRC, so even if you don't have SLS, fit the SLS antiroll bar and get the 'uprated' spec ;) Worked fine for us , even with a 2" lift and a roof tent.

I also fitted new drop links all round as I found mine were shot - they're cheap enough so its worth adding to your list, but beware that you may well need the afore mentioned angle grinder to get the rear ones off...

NB I got all my parts from Andrew at Maverick 4x4 - he was very helpful and checked all the part numbers etc for me. Note that the genuine LR anti roll bars come with bushes so you won't need to buy them seperately.
 
Hi, I have a 1999 td5. After four months of ACE leaking problems I have decided to replace it and as soon as possible! 2 problems! 1. I couldn't do the job myself. 2.I live in northern Germany between Hamburg and Lübeck and can find no mechanic who has any idea regarding ACE problems.My nearest landrover dealer in Lübeck would not replace the ACE.No Landrover dealer would!
Do any of you out there know where I can download a laymans diagram on how to go about this? A video would be wonderful!
It seems nobody here in Germany has heard of the 'ACE removal kit.'! I would order it from the UK but without simple instructions it would be a wast of time! Any suggestions (almost any!) very very welcome!
 
iamthewelshtaffy said:
Hi, I have a 1999 td5. After four months of ACE leaking problems I have decided to replace it and as soon as possible! 2 problems! 1. I couldn't do the job myself. 2.I live in northern Germany between Hamburg and Lübeck and can find no mechanic who has any idea regarding ACE problems.My nearest landrover dealer in Lübeck would not replace the ACE.No Landrover dealer would!
Do any of you out there know where I can download a laymans diagram on how to go about this? A video would be wonderful!
It seems nobody here in Germany has heard of the 'ACE removal kit.'! I would order it from the UK but without simple instructions it would be a wast of time! Any suggestions (almost any!) very very welcome!
Click to expand...

It is all mostly nuts and bolts, see my last post.

You take the old ACE parts off and fit the non-ACE parts, simple as that.

The pipes are threaded through the chassis parts at the front and need cutting to take out. The drop link nuts are always rusted solid so you need the angle grinder/cutter.

The retaining clips that hold the ARB's in place are the same.

Depending on your engine you'll need another auxiliary belt and possibly another idler pulley.

Peter
 
Last edited:
listerdiesel said:
It is all mostly nuts and bolts, see my last post.

You take the old ACE parts off and fit the non-ACE parts, simple as that.

The pipes are threaded through the chassis parts at the front and need cutting to take out. The drop link nuts are always rusted solid so you need the angle grinder/cutter.

The retaining clips that hold the ARB's in place are the same.

Depending on your engine you'll need another auxiliary belt and possibly another idler pulley.

Peter
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, I've been trying to find info on removing ACE (I only seem to find opinions and no facts) and fitting the new ARB but as a previous post stated, there doesn't seem to much info on this so thanks for this post.

I have a Td5, is their anything I might need to know before undertaking this removal?
I have already converted to springs last weekend and I will be fitting the new shocks to suit this weekend along with new brake pads all round and removing the EGR so I'm not completely new to all this but I would like any useful advice.

Thanks
 
Ours are all V8's, but there's no difference on the chassis.

Getting the old pipes out needs a cutting disc as they won't come out complete.

I chopped mine off at the valve block and along the chassis where it would make removal easier.

The front end is the worst, the pipes thread their way through the shocker supports etc and needed cutting into smaller pieces to get them out.

There are a couple of metal clips with screws holding pairs of pipes under the back, I cut either side of them and there is still a short section of piping in there :)

I did mine on my own over a weekend, front one day and back the next.

Fairly easy to do but the fluid isn't easy to drain so expect a few oil puddles.

Peter
 
listerdiesel said:
Ours are all V8's, but there's no difference on the chassis.

Getting the old pipes out needs a cutting disc as they won't come out complete.

I chopped mine off at the valve block and along the chassis where it would make removal easier.

The front end is the worst, the pipes thread their way through the shocker supports etc and needed cutting into smaller pieces to get them out.

There are a couple of metal clips with screws holding pairs of pipes under the back, I cut either side of them and there is still a short section of piping in there :)

I did mine on my own over a weekend, front one day and back the next.

Fairly easy to do but the fluid isn't easy to drain so expect a few oil puddles.

Peter
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for your help. I will be getting on with this later in the week and I will let you know how I get on.

Again, thank you
 
aafter removing
listerdiesel said:
We have taken ACE off both of our D2 V8's.

Handling is no different in my view than with it fitted, but then I don't go cornering on the door handles anyway.

Some of the pipes at the front have to be cut to get them out, I did mine on my own over a quiet weekend.

You'll need an angle grinder with cutting discs to get the ARB links removed.

You'll probably need:

Front & Rear ARB's
ARB rubbers
ARB links (2 front 2 rear AND the nuts for them which I think is M12 Fine thread
New auxiliary belt and possibly an idler pulley.

Mine and my son's have been done for a year, he has Terrafirma 2" lift kit fitted, was air-sprung. Mine is on standard springs.

Worth doing once the system starts playing up, I was getting random warning light coming on when on long trips, filter was seized in the valve block, pipes were crusty but not leaking. Early build pipes appear to be heavier gauge steel than later, mine is November 1998 build date. Parts are expensive when they are available, no other vehicle has the system or common parts as far as I can tell.

Those who say it is vastly different without ACE must be seeing or sensing something I am not, and don't forget that LR sold Discoveries without ACE, it was an option.

Peter
Click to expand...
pump under bonnet what belt did you put on please
 
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