Discovery 2 2004 TD5 Landmark rear hub nut torque

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307e

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Discovery 2 2004 TD5 Landmark owned from new. I need to find the correct rear hub nut torque setting. Lots of conflicting answers on this question and many quoting the setting for the front hubs (youtube vids). Getting confusing.............

I have fitted a new hub unit today to solve an oil leak from around the nut. Armed to the teeth with the longest breaker bar known to man I braced myself for a fight to get the nut off. Firstly I noticed the nut had not been peened over to lock it to the spindle slot. Next, the nut unscrewed with a normal 1/2" ratchet with very little effort needed. Odd....? This has not been touched since it was new, so did the factory lock the nuts to the spindle, or was this one just not done from new and over time has gradually unscrewed? I cleaned up the hub and refitted the new hub with no real issues apart from the nut torque question. The leaflet inside the box says 490Nm but the LR later spec. says 360Nm with threadlock on the spindle and splines. The original never had thread lock on the splines or the nut and it wasn't peened over either. So either the original was shoddily done at the factory as the whistle went Friday night, or is that correct? But that doesn't explain how loose the original nut was to remove.

Help! Is it 490Nm; threadlocked or not - or 360Nm with threadlock everywhere? I have threadlocked it and put 360Nm on it at the moment. I'm also wondering if the original fault could be to do with the hub nut loosening off and the seal leaking; has anyone heard of that before?

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Steve.
 
Also,


Are you sure you are not getting your Nm mixed up with your Lbf.ft?

upload_2019-7-29_20-15-59.png


Cheers
 
following technical bulletin..
(Bulletin N o : 0001
CDS. ref: L8431bu)
On Land Rover UK forums.
td5 rear hub nut torque thread.

Following the poster's suggestions.

Thought it was strange but I kept finding the front hub torque and assumed they were possibly different. Looks like I'll have to strip it all down and start again. Damn. Also have to get hold of a massive torque wrench ........... Damn.
 
Last edited:
You could just use your own body weight and a little math, on a breaker bar. If you weigh 160 lbs and you stand on a breaker bar at the 12 " mark from the centre of the hub, you are exerting 160 lbs/foot, if you stand at 24" you are exerting 320 lbs/foot. I too did not have a torque wrench that went up to the torque needed for my rear hubs, but knowing my own weight, doing the math and carefully measuring the distance on a long bar, and marking it, I was able to torque up my rear hub nuts. Bit rough and ready but seems to be OK. And yes, staking the nuts after doing it removes a lot of the chances of them coming undone!
 
Thanks for the reply, Stanley and the pointer to use simple logic over panic. I found the bulletin that shows the torque setting and method for hub reassembly. Why would Land Rover change this and issue a bulletin if it was wrong?

upload_2019-7-30_9-10-23.png


Apart from the change of Loctite used the reassembly method is the same ...... except the new torque setting for the hub nut of 340Nm.....!
 
following technical bulletin..
(Bulletin N o : 0001
CDS. ref: L8431bu)
On Land Rover UK forums.
td5 rear hub nut torque thread.

Following the poster's suggestions.

Thought it was strange but I kept finding the front hub torque and assumed they were possibly different. Looks like I'll have to strip it all down and start again. Damn. Also have to get hold of a massive torque wrench ........... Damn.
how exactly tight the nut is doesnt really matter as long as it is breaker bar tight and peened over after,it has to be tight as theres little stretch in shaft threads, using loctite is debateable as well and for me would depend on how snug the splines fitted, id guess they have wear in the splines on some back in the day at the dealers and a fix was sort but i cant say ive ever heard or seen that issue
 
Thanks for the reply, Stanley and the pointer to use simple logic over panic. I found the bulletin that shows the torque setting and method for hub reassembly. Why would Land Rover change this and issue a bulletin if it was wrong?

View attachment 185594

Apart from the change of Loctite used the reassembly method is the same ...... except the new torque setting for the hub nut of 340Nm.....!
You're missing the front page of the bulletin which states that the rear hub procedure is only for the Range Rover. That's why it states it's an increase over the WSM (the P38 WSM says 260Nm).

http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/u...-00-nas_-_click_noise_from_rear_axle_area.pdf
 
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