Disco II TD5 Turbo flange nuts

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dev742

dev742

New Member
Posts
9
Good day folks. My first post here (and its about a rounded bolt:rolleyes:) Been fighting the flanged nuts securing the TD5 turbo assembly to the exaust manifold, the (presumably) 13mm ones. Rusted solid, but generally in good shape - not flaking or cracking, just a good layer of rust on them. One moved (on top), the other one is rather easy to access and terrorize with the extractor socket(also on top), but the bottom one (right beside the turbo oil feed) has rounded off almost instantly. The nut splitter tool kind of fits but the nut is at an awkward angle, so the tool tends to slip off. Any ideas on how to get to that nut? I am not concerned about the thread of the stud nor the state of the nut as I have a recon turbo waiting to be put in, so any ideas involving violence are also welcome.
 
and........Welcome to the forum!!!!

(you may wish to go to the "Introduce Yourself " part of it and do just that. )

You will probably get advice about using saws, Dremels, drills etc.
Plus loads of deseizing liquids.
But if you are throwing the turbo away why not cut throught that, remove it then you will have better access maybe?
In the end it is down to how vicious you are prepared to be.

I take it you have already tried a 6 sided socket, and one of a size just lower combine with a hammer to bash it on, or one of those crafty awkward nyt removing sockets with teeth in them?
Best of luck.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
and........Welcome to the forum!!!!

(you may wish to go to the "Introduce Yourself " part of it and do just that. )

You will probably get advice about using saws, Dremels, drills etc.
Plus loads of deseizing liquids.
But if you are throwing the turbo away why not cut throught that, remove it then you will have better access maybe?
In the end it is down to how vicious you are prepared to be.

I take it you have already tried a 6 sided socket, and one of a size just lower combine with a hammer to bash it on, or one of those crafty awkward nyt removing sockets with teeth in them?
Best of luck.
Click to expand...
ooh, that is a good point, I have to try a 6 sided spanner - for some reason I just can't seem to find these at my local hardware store. The 6 sided socket did not do much, the nut is flanged and is stuck on good. It's the stud/nut that is right above the regular oil filter housing (and right next to the turbo oil feed), below the exhaust manifold. The good old torch is not optimal in there because of the proximity to the oil filter, and most of the sockets just don't fit between the oil filter housing and the manifold.

The whole issue is that the place I got the recon turbo from can return me a part of the price if I return my old "bad" turbo to them, so I am trying to avoid just cutting the whole assembly into pieces for now.

The only idea that comes to my mind is to drill/saw through the side (or the top flange in case of a saw approach) of the nut and use a chisel to try to split it, although it is a flanged nut so I am unsure of how this will go. I would happily just cut the studs with the nuts still on, but this nut is located in a very tight space, so an angle grinder won't fit... maybe a hand saw or a sawzall to cut the nut in half though...🤔

I also have to get a 1/4" nut remover socket because the one I have is 3/8"" and I don't have a suitable ratchet for that.
 
sierrafery said:
dont you have an oscillating tool?

Click to expand...

Very good point! I don't have one but these are not expensive and are readily available. AND are multifunctional, so a good investment anyways. I will have to check what size saw will fit in there, with some slack for it to oscillate.
 
You can fit the blade 90 degrees left/right according to your needs... i have one of these and i love it, worth it's weight in gold for fiddly jobs
 
impact sockets are 6 sided and built to take a lot of abuse, or do you have an electric welding machine, you can put heat into the nut by simply getting a large dia rod and stabing it and holding it on the nut dont try to weld just let it get very hot
 
frostythor said:
impact sockets are 6 sided and built to take a lot of abuse, or do you have an electric welding machine, you can put heat into the nut by simply getting a large dia rod and stabing it and holding it on the nut dont try to weld just let it get very hot
Click to expand...
no welding machine sadly, but I have been pondering about drilling a through hole through the nut extractor socket and then putting a screwdriver or a punch through to use it as leverage to turn the socket. The space is so restricted I can't even put a regular spanner onto a nut extractor.

I've tried getting the engine to op-temp and just "drowning" the nut in rust penetrant (not WD-40).
 
dev742 said:
ooh, that is a good point, I have to try a 6 sided spanner - for some reason I just can't seem to find these at my local hardware store. The 6 sided socket did not do much, the nut is flanged and is stuck on good. It's the stud/nut that is right above the regular oil filter housing (and right next to the turbo oil feed), below the exhaust manifold. The good old torch is not optimal in there because of the proximity to the oil filter, and most of the sockets just don't fit between the oil filter housing and the manifold.

The whole issue is that the place I got the recon turbo from can return me a part of the price if I return my old "bad" turbo to them, so I am trying to avoid just cutting the whole assembly into pieces for now.

The only idea that comes to my mind is to drill/saw through the side (or the top flange in case of a saw approach) of the nut and use a chisel to try to split it, although it is a flanged nut so I am unsure of how this will go. I would happily just cut the studs with the nuts still on, but this nut is located in a very tight space, so an angle grinder won't fit... maybe a hand saw or a sawzall to cut the nut in half though...🤔

I also have to get a 1/4" nut remover socket because the one I have is 3/8"" and I don't have a suitable ratchet for that.
Click to expand...
1/4 to 3/8 adaptors are cheap and plentiful, you could buy a set with males, females, in both directions as well as a couple of U/Js for about £15. Local motorparts shops or Halfords. check online.
Like this

Just check it has the acual one you need right now.
I'm a bit surprised you don't have a 3/8 socket set, they get into smaller places than 1/2 " and are generally a lot more usueful,* especially on ordinary cars. I seem to rmember that I used my 3/8 set to remove the turbo on mine when I had to take the manifold off.
*Wizened old mechanic told me that and I've never looked back since.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
1/4 to 3/8 adaptors are cheap and plentiful, you could buy a set with males, females, in both directions as well as a couple of U/Js for about £15. Local motorparts shops or Halfords. check online.
Like this

Just check it has the acual one you need right now.
I'm a bit surprised you don't have a 3/8 socket set, they get into smaller places than 1/2 " and are generally a lot more usueful,* especially on ordinary cars. I seem to rmember that I used my 3/8 set to remove the turbo on mine when I had to take the manifold off.
*Wizened old mechanic told me that and I've never looked back since.
Click to expand...
That is the golden advice I have probably been looking for
Certainly going to get a 3/8"" set

I have a 1/2"" and a 1/4"" and some adapters, but having a 3/8"" set would be way more useful.

Thanks for the wisdom!
 
dev742 said:
That is the golden advice I have probably been looking for
Certainly going to get a 3/8"" set

I have a 1/2"" and a 1/4"" and some adapters, but having a 3/8"" set would be way more useful.

Thanks for the wisdom!
Click to expand...
My pleasure! Mine is a Draper expert system, lifetime guarantee and it even has 1/4 inch and BA stuff in it too.
But you could just buy a cheap mid-priced set and replace the broken things that happen with more expensive versions, like 10mm, 13mm, sockets and maybe the ratchet. Yet more old man's wisdom!
You still want to get 6 sided sockets that work on the side or the flats of the nuts and bolts rather than the corners. again buying them individually for the sizes most used aint too expensive.
;)

EDIT:
Can't believe I originally said "cheap".
 
Last edited:
Buy the best tools you can rather than many cheap ones ;).

I dont know the TD5.
Would it be easier to take the exhaust manifold off at the engine so it can be dealt with? or is that just another can of worms to open:).

J
 
marjon said:
Buy the best tools you can rather than many cheap ones ;).

I dont know the TD5.
Would it be easier to take the exhaust manifold off at the engine so it can be dealt with? or is that just another can of worms to open:).

J
Click to expand...

I have no need for Snapon or Britool, (not that it means I don't have any Britool, cos I do).
And I am not saying buy the cheapest Chinesium ones either cos they don't last five minutes.

Just buy mid to more expensive stuff when you are starting, (I did go back in and edit it to reflect what I really meant. )

But from my Kamasa, (bought when an impecunious student), Draper Expert and Sealey stuff (the Sealey came free with some of their cabinets,) in all the years I have been working on cars, I have only had to replace two sockets (a 13mm and a 15 mm), one 3/8th U/J which I seriously abused and was not at all surprised it bruck when I asked it to do the impossible, and one ratchet, (3/8th). All replaced with good quality.

So I have not paid for a big range of very expensive sockets that I rarely or even, in some cases, never use.
Of course for certain jobs I have had to buy special sized sockets, usually huge ones and each time I buy good quality.

Maybe I have been lucky and maybe I don't use mine as much as some of us on here, but it is a judgement we all have to make based on our income and ways of justifying the expense. I got my family to buy me my more expensive tools like my welder etc.

As for taking off the manifold, he could well get into a whole mess of trouble doing that. Those of us who have had the manifold warp, which is a lot, me included know about this. He could end up having to drill out broken studs as I had to. I've just had a look and couldn't see clearly under the shield over the turbo, so it might be possible not easy, but I'd see that as a very last resort.
I think he needs to get the other two nuts off then bash it back and forth a bit with a rubber hammer, or an ammer an a bit o wood, as it'll move a bit, plus spraying with deseize stuff, until the the flange of the nut comes a tiny bit loose.

All good fun!;)
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
I have no need for Snapon or Britool, (not that it means I don't have any Britool, cos I do).
And I am not saying buy the cheapest Chinesium ones either cos they don't last five minutes.

Just buy mid to more expensive stuff when you are starting, (I did go back in and edit it to reflect what I really meant. )

But from my Kamasa, (bought when an impecunious student), Draper Expert and Sealey stuff (the Sealey came free with some of their cabinets,) in all the years I have been working on cars, I have only had to replace two sockets (a 13mm and a 15 mm), one 3/8th U/J which I seriously abused and was not at all surprised it bruck when I asked it to do the impossible, and one ratchet, (3/8th). All replaced with good quality.

So I have not paid for a big range of very expensive sockets that I rarely or even, in some cases, never use.
Of course for certain jobs I have had to buy special sized sockets, usually huge ones and each time I buy good quality.

Maybe I have been lucky and maybe I don't use mine as much as some of us on here, but it is a judgement we all have to make based on our income and ways of justifying the expense. I got my family to buy me my more expensive tools like my welder etc.

As for taking off the manifold, he could well get into a whole mess of trouble doing that. Those of us who have had the manifold warp, which is a lot, me included know about this. He could end up having to drill out broken studs as I had to. I've just had a look and couldn't see clearly under the shield over the turbo, so it might be possible not easy, but I'd see that as a very last resort.
I think he needs to get the other two nuts off then bash it back and forth a bit with a rubber hammer, or an ammer an a bit o wood, as it'll move a bit, plus spraying with deseize stuff, until the the flange of the nut comes a tiny bit loose.

All good fun!;)
Click to expand...
Yes the manifold could turn sour real fast. Especially with the fact the Landy IS my garage, so all of the repairs are done on the driveway :D

Will get me some 3/8 equipment for sure, but the first thing I am going to attempt is to just bash it like this, certainly under the weight of the assembly either the stud or the nut will break through the rust. Wonderful idea, thanks:banana:
 
dev742 said:
Landy IS my garage, so all of the repairs are done on the driveway :D
Click to expand...
... and guess where I removed my manifold, took it away to get reground flat, then drilled out and rethreaded the holes for the missing bolts/studs!
Yep, and it is made of big pieces of gravel so any dropped nuts or bolts are a pain to retrieve. to the point that I bought a metal detector!
My garage is full and none of my Discos will go into it as it is too low.
It even has most of my tools in it as I use them in both countries!
 
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