Disco II - TD5: Sunk Cost Phallusy

Deanod said:

Issue One: Overheating – Is it the head gasket?

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I had an overheating engine and I did not see a colour change in the sniffer test. However, it was actually a warped block that was leaking the gas.

I'm not saying thst your block is also warped but that sniffer test may not be completely reliable.

If I were you, I would replace the water pump anyway since it's cheap and easier that doing the head. Did you do the thermostat? You could feel some hoses and see where the heat is.
BTW, your temp guage is useless, it stays in the middle until the engine overheats, at which point, it shoots up. Too late to do anything at that stage.
If you do eventually have the head off, put a proper straight edge on the block and shine a torch behind it to see any low points.

Ok, I replied to an earlier post and didn't read all the way through to see that you fixed the water loss.

Alpinejim said:

Ok, I replied to an earlier post and didn't read all the way through to see that you fixed the water loss.

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No problems! Thanks for having a look.

I want to keep a track of all the problems and fixes I make along the way, good or bad to hopefully be another resource for others when they need it. I always appreciate the advice as it's all new to me.

Update 23/01/2021

The other car died... Poor old Citroen's Turbo started smoking today so the project just became the daily!


So to make it closer to roadworthy I've changed both front Cailpers and pads. These are on and bled okay but it's still pulling to the left under braking.



Also got a better look at the rusty holes in the body witht the wheels off. I also removed all the 'Locking' wheelnuts by beating a 15/16 socket over the top and replacing them with normals.



Does anyone know why a bled system would continue to pull to the left?

Cheers, Deano

Deanod said:

Update 23/01/2021

The other car died... Poor old Citroen's Turbo started smoking today so the project just became the daily!
View attachment 228922 View attachment 228923

So to make it closer to roadworthy I've changed both front Cailpers and pads. These are on and bled okay but it's still pulling to the left under braking.

View attachment 228924 View attachment 228925

Also got a better look at the rusty holes in the body witht the wheels off. I also removed all the 'Locking' wheelnuts by beating a 15/16 socket over the top and replacing them with normals.

View attachment 228926 View attachment 228927

Does anyone know why a bled system would continue to pull to the left?

Cheers, Deano

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There is a proper bleeding purging procedure you are supposed to follow. Did you?

Hmm apparently not? The Haynes manual didn’t mention anything special.

as I haven’t emptied the reservoir and pumped all the air out the new callipers I assumed that’s all there could be. What am I missing out on?

Deanod said:

Hmm apparently not? The Haynes manual didn’t mention anything special.

as I haven’t emptied the reservoir and pumped all the air out the new callipers I assumed that’s all there could be. What am I missing out on?

Click to expand...

Brake system bleeding
$% 70.25.02
Bleeding of the brake system can be carried out
using the procedures given on TestBook, or by
following the manual procedure given below.
WARNING: If any components upstream of brake
modulator, including the modulator itself are
replaced, the brake system must be bled using
the procedure on TestBook/T4, to ensure that all
air is expelled from the new component(s).
WARNING: Do not allow brake fluid to come into
contact with eyes or skin.
Bleed
NOTE: This procedure covers bleeding the
complete system, but where only the primary or
secondary circuit have been disturbed in
isolation, it should only be necessary to bleed
that circuit. Partial bleeding of the hydraulic
system is only permissible if a brake pipe or
hose has been disconnected with only minor
loss of fluid.
1. Do not allow fluid level in master cylinder to fall
below 'MIN' mark during bleeding.
2. Do not fill reservoir above 'MAX' level.
3. Raise front and rear of vehicle.
WARNING: Do not work on or under a
vehicle supported only by a jack. Always
support the vehicle on safety stands.
4. Check all pipe and hose connections are tight
and there are no signs of leakage.
5. Top-up fluid level in brake reservoir to 'MAX'
mark.
WARNING: Do not allow dirt or foreign
liquids to enter the reservoir. Use only new
DOT 4 brake fluid from airtight containers.
Do not mix brands of brake fluid as they
may not be compatible.
6. Attach bleed tube to the bleed screw on front
brake caliper on the passenger side, submerge
free end in a clear container containing brake
fluid.
7. Apply pressure to brake pedal several times,
then apply steady pressure.
8. Loosen bleed screw to release brake fluid and
air. Allow pedal to return unassisted.
9. Depress brake pedal steadily through its full
stroke and allow to return unassisted. Repeat
procedure until a flow of clean air-free fluid is
purged into container then, whilst holding
pedal at end of downward stroke, tighten brake
caliper bleed screw to 10 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
CAUTION: Ensure the fluid in the reservoir
is maintained between the minimum and
maximum levels throughout the bleed
procedure using new brake fluid.
10. Top-up brake fluid level to 'MAX' mark.
BRAKES
ADJUSTMENTS 70-31

Bleed sequence RHD NSF OSF NSR OSR
11. Working in the sequence illustrated, repeat
steps 5 to 9 on remaining calipers.
WARNING: Braking efficiency may be
seriously impaired if the incorrect bleed
sequence is used.
12. Apply brakes and check for leakage.
13. Remove stand(s) and lower vehicle.
14. Road test vehicle. Check brake pedal for short
firm travel when brakes are applied.
From the RAVE manual.
Sorry I couldn't include the pics I am not as good at doing this as others.
End of the day not much different to an ordinary vehicle with a split system.
So next thing to check might be that you haven't got a flexi delaminating, leading to an unwanted one-way valve.