Disco 300tdi swap into a 90TD

That hole is beautiful. Nearly as nice as the one my mate did with a stilh saw for me lol and alot quicker..

I thought the exact same. The floorpans come out a 90 how the fek do they do it on a disco but the man above has explained lol

Ian46 said:

What you do is lift the engine off the mounts. Remove the rubber mounts and then lower the engine. From underneath useing some long extensions a universal joint, 17mm socket and a ratchet, you then undo the nuts.
And that's how it's done, but I like the hole through the tunnel.

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i was wondering as well,so remove the mounts drops it enough to get at the top bolts on the bell housing ?

I couldn't get at the top bolt and I'm getting fed up with my lack of progress, I'd removed the rubbers but still couldn't see how to get a the bolt without help.

Oh and mine are 15mm bolts but the bottom ones where 1/2"????

I thought they were 17, but it's been 10 years since I've done one.

Marmaduke said:

Oh and mine are 15mm bolts but the bottom ones where 1/2"????

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13mm

13mm? I thought the bellhousing bolt were bigger than that.

nuts and bolts for bell housing are m10 but been flange heads nuts are 15mm and not usual 17mm and bolts are 13mm headed

jamesmartin said:

13mm

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My 13mm wouldn't fit as well as the 1/2", also the three bolts on the exhaust manifold connection to the downpipe were 9/16"

Marmaduke said:

My 13mm wouldn't fit as well as the 1/2", also the three bolts on the exhaust manifold connection to the downpipe were 9/16"

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1/2 inch is slightly smaller which is why 1/2 bihex is often better for caliper bolts, flange nuts and bolts have slightly tapered heads so socket can be pushed of and slip if quite tight, some cheap flnge head m10s are 14 mm which is slightly smaller than 9/16, lr 300 tdi nuts would be 15mm spanner size

I put my brain in gear, the bolts were 15mm. It was a 200tdi Disco and I changed the clutch on it. I took the engine out instead of dropping the gearbox, It was a lot easier to lift the engine than to lift the gearbox.

I'm looking forward to taking a pick axe to the disco when I've done the git bag

But yippee it's out



So then I could turn my attention back to the tratter, I ended up having to remove the floors and transmission tunnel to get at the last few bolts and also hopefully make it easier to refit the engine. The front bumper was also in the way and in true rust bucket style one of the bolts sheared off so that had the angle grinder treatment. It was bent and rusted but I'd already picked up a replacement TD5 one off ebay for £25 complete with end caps. Mucho pleanty bargain




It took me two hours of grunting, pulling and hammering to separate it old engine from the gearbox, it would not come apart, but in the end I managed to hammer a sharpened screwdriver in and now they sit side by side



Took the flywheel bolts out with a impact gun



Fitted a new thrust bearing, HD clutch fork but the slave cylinder started dripping while I was doing it so off to Craddocks in the morning for a new one as it's a git of a job to do later on, I've also got a new rear oil seal will be fitted tomorrow.

Offered this up to see what need to be cut off and ground down and it now fits a treat



I'll clean it up tomorrow and then the refit can begin:clap2:

are you moving the clutch pipe that runs down the side of the passenger footwell?

I worried about this and people made a big deal about it but i just moved it slightly with my hand and its been fine since

I don't think it fouled owt when offered it up but I'll check it tomorrow with the starter motor in place

Got some bits from Craddocks this morning including a new slave cylinder to replace the leaking one from yesterday. Torqued the flywheel up and put the clutch on, I'm re using the existing one as it looks OK and I know it'll be coming out again in the next 18 months as I'm planning a chassis swap. A 15mm socket was ideal for using as an alignment tool and worked really well.



Blanked off the egr.



Then cut the engine mounts out of the discovery which was a git of a job , all the sparks kept falling on my head which properly hurts.

I cut through the flaming brake pipe on my tratter whilst cutting tratters engine mount off so really not a happy camper




Then it was time to offer the engine up which is a horrible job to do on your own and took me ages to get everything lined up but eventually after lots and lots of adjustments and tweaking it went in



I was also sure I'd read somewhere that you could re-use the near side mount but that certainly isn't the case as it sits right below the exhaust and doesn't line up either so that's up for the chop next.





There was no way I was getting the welder out in the dark so I called it a day, I thought I would have had it all done by now after reading other write ups but it's a bit longer doing it all on your own, unless I'm just a slow worker.
Back to work tomorrow for a rest, so I'll be up for breakfast as 3:30 can't wait.

More on Sunday.....

keep going buddy, mine took weeks on my own on the odd day here and there and i still look back and wonder how i managed it on my own.

You'll get there eventually...

ps have a nice 3:30 am start... ill still be in nod land!

Cheers bud I'm on my way

how did u work out how high the new mounts needed to be welded on?

IamRobbie said:

how did u work out how high the new mounts needed to be welded on?

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I'll let you know on Sunday, I'll start by putting them at the same height as the discovery and see what that looks like

Right, engine mounts tacked on, engine out, repair the poxy brake pipe I caught with the angle grinder, engine mounts welded up, painted and engine back in, I'm getting good at this



Now the flippin' brake equaliser jobber thing is in the way



Looks like my new brake pipe flaring kit is going to have to pay for itself.....

Used the 19j cooler pipes cut down a bit to re-attach the heater, I've got a plastic pipe cutter which is great for heating and fuel pipes



Nex the exhaust got the angle grinder treatment, cut the down pipes on them both, utilised the flex joint on the disco and cut some slits in it to help reduce the diameter. Measured and welded.



Fuel pipes next, re-using the disco fuel filter. A bit of heat on the plastic pipes helps to connect stuff, got away with only using 1 bit of new pipe, everything else is trimmed and re-used



Alternator back on along with the power steering pump, just got to get my head around this little problem now....



Jobs for tomorrow....

Relocate brake jobber and bleed the system
Bleed clutch
Sort power steering pipe work
Lower rad mounts
Put rad and intercooler in and sort pipe work
Bleed fuel system
Air box???
Sort wiring for alternator and electric fan
Put coolant in
Put floor and transmission tunnel back in
Double check everything
Start it..................