Disco 3 (LR3) Disco 3 was fault diagnosis

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Ha yeah the lines were full of failed dessicated coconut. A big hug of it shot out of one of the lines as I released them (I couldn't be bothered to release the pressure first)

Blown out, valve replaced and it shot up a hell of a lot faster.

I'll change the compressor tomorrow.

Happy days , indeed surprising how much better the system runs getting all that junk out
 
Checked on the iid with the current compressor. Once it got to about 1100kpa it started to really struggle. Think it's a bit knackered so will deffo be sorting hat I we the next few days.

Took the opportunity to properly calibrate the suspension and now it drives better than it ever has since we have had it. Before it was always a bit vague, and slow in the bends. Now I can Chuck it into a bend with a bit more confidence :) it was always sat low on the front , so levelled all that off, and took the liberty of raising it 15mm higher than stock. That iid tool is very handy.
 
Sheesh this thing is cursed

Ok went to change the compressor, of course could get the sodding bracket off so yanked it off anyway

What mong made the bracket from aluminium. Galvanic corrosion FFS.

Anyway, I've got the new compressor in, then it wouldn't pump up. Just went straight to fault. Hhmmmm

Undid the fitting that feeds the rear exhaust valve, and now the compressor kicks in.

Then I managed to cross thread the fitting :oops:

One of those days!!

I'll remake a bracket from steel.
 
Right the journey continues.


Compressor now in, but newer problem!

Replaced the centre valve block, now it's the rear that playing up.

Pumps up just fine, but will not release air out of the rear bags.

At least after this I'll have the triggers broom of air suspension!!
 
Right the journey continues.


Compressor now in, but newer problem!

Replaced the centre valve block, now it's the rear that playing up.

Pumps up just fine, but will not release air out of the rear bags.

At least after this I'll have the triggers broom of air suspension!!

Hiya

Hope this doesn’t sound rude, have u double checked the pipes

If ok, have a look at the rear connector , sits by the passengers side rear wheel, also check the rear valve block wiring

After that if it’s still the same pull the pipes off the back of the dryer , see if it drops then

Done a drawing , hope it helps u

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Hi Stuart, yeah the pipes are ok, I haven't touched the rears and it used to work, now it's not. However for a while the rear has been struggling to release air. I wonder if in disturbing everything, a plug of failed dessicant has CA see it to block. I can feel the rear solenoid try and release (and hear it obviously click as it trys to release) but no air is coming out of it.

Looks a bit awkward to get into as well.

The iid was saying something about air release failing so does tie in to the idea that it's blocked.

New valve should be here Thurs anyway.

It's done 200 odd k so can't blame the system for working till now I guess.

I did the test valve sequence and the front works perfectly now (whereas before it wasn't) and the compressor is kicking in it was like for like)

The rears go up fine but fail to release air out.
 
Hi Stuart, yeah the pipes are ok, I haven't touched the rears and it used to work, now it's not. However for a while the rear has been struggling to release air. I wonder if in disturbing everything, a plug of failed dessicant has CA see it to block. I can feel the rear solenoid try and release (and hear it obviously click as it trys to release) but no air is coming out of it.

Looks a bit awkward to get into as well.

The iid was saying something about air release failing so does tie in to the idea that it's blocked.

New valve should be here Thurs anyway.

It's done 200 odd k so can't blame the system for working till now I guess.

I did the test valve sequence and the front works perfectly now (whereas before it wasn't) and the compressor is kicking in it was like for like)

The rears go up fine but fail to release air out.

Hiya

Out if curiosity have u redone the calibration plse, reason I ask is if the suspension thinks it bottomed out it won’t lower

At normal ride height from the centre is the wheels to bottom of the wheel arch

Fronts 465 mm
Rears 485mm

It’s perfectly normal for the valve blocks to click , as the solenoids are opening and closing very quickly , if they just opened the air would be gone in seconds

The pressure sensor is read from the suspension ecu in when to open the exhaust valve which is located on the compressor , so indeed as u press the lower lever inside the cabin , ecu opens the valve blocks

Also another thing to check is, with ur iid, select ur valve blocks , raise it to normal or off road height , then as u press lower the % should change on ur valve blocks telling u there opening , well the signal is getting to them as indeed may be full of white dust

Needed to virtually rebuild my entire suspension system because it was in such a mess and been neglected

Hope that helps a little and indeed Plse let us know how u get on

Try it with the iid first

Ps , for the rear valve block replacement use a stubby spanner , you will see why when u try and undo the voss connectors
 
I'll give it a go.

I can't select different heights, if I touch the switch it immediately goes to fault and locks out.
 
I'll give it a go.

I can't select different heights, if I touch the switch it immediately goes to fault and locks out.

Ah i see, so sounds like the suspension needs calibrating, have u rescanned it plse to see what fault codes come up

Maybe there’s also a height sensor that’s out of range or problem with the wiring to it

Are all the fuses ok please ,

Will be interesting to see what error codes come up

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I'll scan it to it bud.
I think fundamental ly though there's an issue with a solenoid that releases sir on the back, as in test mode, I can't get air to release. The calibration should impact it when testing individual valves?

I can hear the valve on the back activate and it's got an electronic whine too. But zip all air comes out.

One good point is now the car doesnt go down at all, despite being jacked up for the past few days.

No more air leaks :cool:
 
Anyone got some petrol?

I see what you mean about that rear valve!

Chuff me! What an absolute ballache

Then.... Popped a rear airbag
I thought that the exhaust valve was working very well indeed for a few seconds :mad:
 
Ok... It wants burning!!!!

Rear air bag nuts were so corroded I couldn't get them off. Tried some Irwin extractors and nope.

Temporarily bodged the bag back on with cable ties just to see if it will inflate.

Can I Eck

The reservoir pressure wouldn't go up. I clamped the rear air line and it started to go up.

I swear I can hear an air leak somewhere underneath. Doesnt help I'm half deaf.
 
Ok... It wants burning!!!!

Rear air bag nuts were so corroded I couldn't get them off. Tried some Irwin extractors and nope.

Temporarily bodged the bag back on with cable ties just to see if it will inflate.

Can I Eck

The reservoir pressure wouldn't go up. I clamped the rear air line and it started to go up.

I swear I can hear an air leak somewhere underneath. Doesnt help I'm half deaf.

Hi mate

Sounds like you’ve been having fun, indeed thought u would see about the rear valve block, that’s why I said about having a small spanner , lol

Have u tried using some soapy water all round the pipes, compressor , reservoir valve block and also soapy water around the rear valve block as those Voss connectors can be a pain

But does Sound like the rear valve block is leaking
 
I'm going to have another go tomorrow mate. Reached the point where you just need to stop.

I'll get the soap out tomorrow.

The leak sounds like it's on the pipework between the middle valve and the rear one.. but hard to tell. The soapy water should work, as you say.

Need to get something to get those nuts off the rear air strut. Hacksaw I think? The rear ones going to be fun.
 
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I'm going to have another go tomorrow mate. Reached the point where you just need to stop.

I'll get the soap out tomorrow.

The leak sounds like it's on the pipework between the middle valve and the rear one.. but hard to tell. The soapy water should work, as you say.

Need to get something to get those nuts off the rear air strut. Hacksaw I think? The rear ones going to be fun.

Hi mate

Indeed , I’ve had to walk away a few times, ie when I replaced the upper rear wishbones , what a £@£@&@#& job that was

Because some of the pipes are hard to reach I bought a garden sprayer with the long nozzle so after filling it with washing up liquid and water was able to reach in the hard to reach parts

Raise the suspension to off road height , then turn the engine off, then spray around the rear valve block

Indeed as mentioned , please never ever get underneath these without axle stands, , scary when they drop without warning

Ref the sound , there also the large plastic silencer at the back , of u look at ur compressor box, right hand side and look up ur see an open plastic pipe, around 3/4 inch in size, that’s called a silencer , so when the exhaust valve opens u hear a hiss

Had the agro with the front struts , got some long 6 x sided spanner’s , was a right sod to get out as someone had used mole grips , or are they completely rounded off , know it’s also hard due to lack of room

Please let’s us know how u get on

Shame ur not closer as I would have helped u
 
Hi mate

Indeed , I’ve had to walk away a few times, ie when I replaced the upper rear wishbones , what a £@£@&@#& job that was

Because some of the pipes are hard to reach I bought a garden sprayer with the long nozzle so after filling it with washing up liquid and water was able to reach in the hard to reach parts

Raise the suspension to off road height , then turn the engine off, then spray around the rear valve block

Indeed as mentioned , please never ever get underneath these without axle stands, , scary when they drop without warning

Ref the sound , there also the large plastic silencer at the back , of u look at ur compressor box, right hand side and look up ur see an open plastic pipe, around 3/4 inch in size, that’s called a silencer , so when the exhaust valve opens u hear a hiss

Had the agro with the front struts , got some long 6 x sided spanner’s , was a right sod to get out as someone had used mole grips , or are they completely rounded off , know it’s also hard due to lack of room

Please let’s us know how u get on

Shame ur not closer as I would have helped u

Yeah I checked the silencer, could find any air coming out at from all the silencer. I can't get the rear to raise, it's on axle stands.

I'm suspecting the airline between the middle valve block and the rear has got a leak.
 
Yeah I checked the silencer, could find any air coming out at from all the silencer. I can't get the rear to raise, it's on axle stands.

I'm suspecting the airline between the middle valve block and the rear has got a leak.

Ok, apologises trying to make sure I keep up and try not to ask repeated questions

Indeed like I said I rebuilt virtually my entire suspension and will help all I can

If I may say , suspension must never be jacked up without disabling it first, as u can damage height sensors and air bags

Also must never operate suspension whilst supported , but that telling u how to suck eggs, lol

Trying to get a general consensus now of where were at if I may please

So am I right that u have a failed rear air bag and the suspension won’t raise at the rear,

Currently have it on axle stands so u can replace the air bag , are u doing them as a pair plse

Like I said apologises for asking daft questions

Plse let us know how u get on finding the leak

As indeed can be proven as u know if pulling the F26 fuse and allowing to standing overnight , will become evident

More than happy to help go through it with u step by step, regardless how long it takes so u don’t have to tear ur hair out , plus others here having D3/4s can also help u resolve this

As indeed real shame ur not closer as I would have helped,
 
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