Disco 200tdi fuel pump woes...

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Obi_110

Active Member
Posts
69
Afternoon all,

I'm in the process of working through the "snags" with my 110, which is running a 200tdi from a disco. I've been getting A LOT of thick black smoke on hard acceleration, so after having a good google, went to take a look at the pin the the fuel pump. After getting the cover off, the inside is very corroded, and the pin is ABSOLUTELY solid in the housing, it will not budge. I tried tapping it gently with a hammer, but there was only a small amount of movement, and I tried turning it, absolutely no dice...

I'm guessing my options are to rebuild it - can anyone recommend a company to do it?

Will I need to do anything else at the same time? I think the lift pump is knackered too :oops:
 

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Afternoon all,

I'm in the process of working through the "snags" with my 110, which is running a 200tdi from a disco. I've been getting A LOT of thick black smoke on hard acceleration, so after having a good google, went to take a look at the pin the the fuel pump. After getting the cover off, the inside is very corroded, and the pin is ABSOLUTELY solid in the housing, it will not budge. I tried tapping it gently with a hammer, but there was only a small amount of movement, and I tried turning it, absolutely no dice...

I'm guessing my options are to rebuild it - can anyone recommend a company to do it?

Will I need to do anything else at the same time? I think the lift pump is knackered too :oops:
I would try and free that up, could save yourself some money.
You may find it is the fuel pin at the bottom of the hole that has seized, and it this that is stopping the tapered pin coming out the top, there is an allen key plug that allows access to the other end of the fuel pin.

It is quite common, as when used off road, water gets in via the breather.
 
I would try and free that up, could save yourself some money.
You may find it is the fuel pin at the bottom of the hole that has seized, and it this that is stopping the tapered pin coming out the top, there is an allen key plug that allows access to the other end of the fuel pin.

It is quite common, as when used off road, water gets in via the breather.

Yeah, I think once I've got it off the engine, I will have a little bit of a fiddle before shipping it off - I watched a youtube on removing it, which stated you need to ensure timing is right and have a retaining bracket in place to avoid having the timing belt ping off, so waiting on that tool to arrive !

My 110 was stood up for a fair amount of time, so I'm not sure how much time has passed with the engine not turning - can that equally contribute to gunging up?
 
Yeah, I think once I've got it off the engine, I will have a little bit of a fiddle before shipping it off - I watched a youtube on removing it, which stated you need to ensure timing is right and have a retaining bracket in place to avoid having the timing belt ping off, so waiting on that tool to arrive !

My 110 was stood up for a fair amount of time, so I'm not sure how much time has passed with the engine not turning - can that equally contribute to gunging up?
If you buy the cheap timing pin kits off ebay they include the pulley holder plate so you can remove pump without doing the belt.
I have done a 300 in the middle of a field using flat steel bar and a range of sockets/bolts to hold the pulley.
 
Just got my injector pump and injectors back from Diesel Bob, while the price stung, everything looks like new, I'm really impressed that what I thought would be a total write off injection pump wise is as good as it is, ready to go back onto the engine.

I would thoroughly recommend Diesel Bob - great business to deal with
 
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