Hi guys,,,just a quicky,,im thinking of scrapping my 300tdi and moving up to a td5,,,currently have 31/10.5/15's fitted and thought maybe i would keep them for the new truck,,,i know the wheels wont fit due to hole pitch but can you get 15" rims to fit? and will the tyres fit ok without a lift?,,,if got a 2" lift on the 300tdi but not really sure i can be arsed doing all that again lol,,,,,,,,,,thanks for any tips
disco 2001 td5
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15" wheels fit you might have to trim the back plates though, not sure if you need a lift kit.
Where are you im always looking for 300tdi's (even scrapers)
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Not so sure moving to a TD5 is moving "up"! Sideways maybe!
Hope you like electronics!
Hope you like electronics!
EeEk
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Not to me, I can weld a chassis, I wouldn't know where to start welding an ECU!Electronics are easy compared to the swiss cheese chassis
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(But he is right, rusty chassis on a Land Rover, should never be allowed!)
discool
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I never had a rusty chassis on my two LRs I wouldn’t own one if it did but then I have always avoided mud even muddy puddles
The last I tried welding was with oxy-gas, so leave it to the professional, as for an ECU repair I can solder, but then I repair these items by a new replacement, as working in the electronic industry that’s just like our techies always do, out of the box and a result
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In an ideal world I too would never buy one with a rusty chassis, but the world don't work like that and I was forced a while back to buy an auto TD5 whose chassis seemed OK at the time but had been used to take guns to shoots and the owner swore he jetwashed it after each shoot. I don't think he realised he was not jetwashing in the right place, cos I found plenty of mud on it as soon as I got under it the first time. Since then the rust has appeared and this year I will have to do something about it, unlike my two D1s which are fine but not driveable for other reasons! I can weld with arc and mig, but hate doing it under a car, although I do usually do it. but getting to old for it and would have to do it on my gravel drive, so not ideal.I never had a rusty chassis on my two LRs I wouldn’t own one if it did but then I have always avoided mud even muddy puddles
The last I tried welding was with oxy-gas, so leave it to the professional, as for an ECU repair I can solder, but then I repair these items by a new replacement, as working in the electronic industry that’s just like our techies always do, out of the box and a result
As for circuitry and ECUs, I wouldn't know where to start so, like you, I'd be forced to dig deep into my pockets and buy new. I so hate throwing away a part that has bits on it that must be OK cos I can't fix the bust bit.
Reminds me, I still have to jetwash the TD5 as it got well muddy up in the Dales at Christmas. I cannot have a Landy without driving it through the sort of Land it was intended to Rove over!
Henry_b
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The "so called" wizardry of these OLD beasts isn't really complicated,
Even the P38 by todays standards is relatively spartan even when compared to a new Fiesta.
I'm in the "would rather screw around with lectrics" camp my P38 has electrical issues, but the chassis Sills and everywhere else is mint, and i'd much rather be messing around with an ECU on a bench than be freezing my gonads off under it!!
My d2 is got a ratty chassis,.
trying to patch a rotten chassis, one of the downfalls of the D2 is the chassis, odd too is the D2 chassis is 1/2 as think as the P38's chassis!!
odd really considering the P38 came out BEFORE the P38 and is an older design.
Even the P38 by todays standards is relatively spartan even when compared to a new Fiesta.
I'm in the "would rather screw around with lectrics" camp my P38 has electrical issues, but the chassis Sills and everywhere else is mint, and i'd much rather be messing around with an ECU on a bench than be freezing my gonads off under it!!
My d2 is got a ratty chassis,.
trying to patch a rotten chassis, one of the downfalls of the D2 is the chassis, odd too is the D2 chassis is 1/2 as think as the P38's chassis!!
odd really considering the P38 came out BEFORE the P38 and is an older design.
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