Does anyone no what this problem is caused by , I have a disco 2 td5 ES an when I move from park to drive my MS lights come on an it goes into limp mode but if I turn it of an start it up in neutral then go to drive it’s stays fine can drive 100’s of miles no problem until I move the shifter to reverse then the MS will appear agen an it goes into limp mode
Disco 2 td5 es MS lights
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sierrafery
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It seems that the XYZ swtch is missbehaving,
That’s what I was thinking but I’m not 100% sure and didn’t want to replace the switch on an assumption as there expensive parts , another thing I noticed aswell it could be just coincidence but I removed the gear shifter cover and in the top left corner there’s like a small selector bar that had 2 £1 coins jammed under it and a couple of other coins I had to force them out an since Ive removed them the MS lights don’t come on while I’m driving they only come on when I move the shifter , is there any other possible solutions that could be causing the problem or would I be best gettin the switch of and giving it a clean or replacing it ??
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Mine did it once, may have been battery related but I did read a ‘fix’ where with the engine off but ignition on you cycle from P down to 1 fairly briskly and that can sort it out. It worked on mine but I did also flatten the battery at the time due to a dead alternator so it’s possible it was a coincidence that the above ‘fix’ appeared to work.
I will have a try of that now just don’t want to go spendin stupid money if it’s not going to fix the problem if I can be sure it’s defiantly the switch then I will buy a new 1 but i dont want to be wastin money on parts I don’t need , thanks for the reply
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Very bizarre, and annoying. I have read on another forum of how you can strip, clean and reassemble an XYZ switch, which if I ever thought was the item playing up, I would certainly try first as they are so eyewateringly expensive. If you search for "xyz switch fix" or "repair" you'll find all sorts of things others have done, but if it was me I'd search here for how to test the switch and ancillary circuits first.
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If you are going to take the xyz switch off, to replace it, why not have a bash at seeing to it? It's in your hand after all! The worst you can do is not succeed and then have to get a new one! But give other ideas a chance first, I am sure some of the experts on this forum will have an algorithm you can follow stage by stage to pin down the problem. IF the fault then turns out to be in the switch you will be a lot more confident. But it could just be dirt in the connector on top of the switch.
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Don't think it is easy. But I'd clean the plug first. Then, if that don't work, Clean around the area first, get a good (head?) torch, don't be scared to remove stuff that is in the way, like protection panels. Mirror on a stick? Read and reread all the threads on all the forums which cover it. They give step by step methods, which size spanners you need etc.
neilgibson
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If you
ROY SIMPSON
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Does this happen every time you engage reverse gear weather you move from park or neutral and do you actually go backwards when reverse is engaged.
I ask as if you do actually engage reverse gear and go backwards then the automatic transmission
Ecu is receiving the correct signal from the xyz switch.
I ask as if you do actually engage reverse gear and go backwards then the automatic transmission
Ecu is receiving the correct signal from the xyz switch.
Ye when I select reverse it does go backwards and it is every time if I move from park to drive it will go in limp mode but if I’m start it up in neutral an go to drive it is fine but if I go from drive to reverse it will go back into limp mode with MS lights flashing it’s asiff the ECU is gettin confused when the gear shifter is moved
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So every time you shift across neutral, or into reverse from P it misbehaves. If you start in neutral can you then go into reverse with no problems? Have you tried pausing in neutral before shifting into either Reverse from D or D from reverse? (You've probably tried everything!) Sounds as if something is loose, damp or mucky in the switch, or maybe there is damp in the plug, maybe causing a short across two terminals so it gets two signals at the same time from the shifter. I assume you switch off between moves, and start in Park if you want to reverse and start in neutral if you want to go forward? Annoying if you actually want to do one straight after the other. Other members on here with more electrical knowhow than me will comment if I am talking twaddle!
Last question, have you checked the ATF level? M&S lights can come on if it is low. And do you have really slow moving away from stop when the gearbox is cold? This can be a sign of a mucky filter in the box. Both of these are DIY fixes. Do read up before removing the level plug. If you do it with the engine not running ATF will pii all over you!
Last question, have you checked the ATF level? M&S lights can come on if it is low. And do you have really slow moving away from stop when the gearbox is cold? This can be a sign of a mucky filter in the box. Both of these are DIY fixes. Do read up before removing the level plug. If you do it with the engine not running ATF will pii all over you!
Yes I looked out for what u said about it being sluggish when pulling off cold so when I finnished work I checked it out an it does feel slow when pulling of from a cold start but after a couple of minutes it’s fine has all its power could this be a dirty gearbox filter causing this problem ??
Si Click
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There can be many reasons for it (18?) - essentially the lights flash and limp mode occurs if the EAT ECU detects a significant fault. Ideally you need a LR-specific diagnostic tool to interrogate the EAT, but if you don't have one you can help yourself by downloading the RAVE manual (free and a search will show how), working through the symptoms you have and logically eliminating those that cannot apply (it happens when stationary so cannot be a torque converter lock up issue for instance). Once you have narrowed it down, start checking the cheap stuff first - battery voltage on start, fluid level etc.
Little art
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Hello, what is/was de verdict on this problem? Has it been solved and how?
Why is it often people ask for solutions but never write the outcomes on fora...
Cheers
Why is it often people ask for solutions but never write the outcomes on fora...
Cheers
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It really is worth changing the gearbox filter and ATF anyway. @jamesmartin recommends doing it once a year!
But yes, sluggish running until warm is often caused by low ATF level and or dirty filter. It improves once warm as quite simply the ATF gets thinner and can find its way through what's left of the gaps in the filter more easily.But I think this is probably only part of the problem, or maybe not even that. which doesn't stop me from recommending you do the changes.
Little art
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As changing fluids is on the list I might be doing this next week, as the other search is indeed power or loss of it. My idea is also since taking of the xyz switch a straight pipe instead of exhaust filter, could be cluttered.
And it’s easier to get to the xyz thingy since exhaust is taken out. Might be two mice in on hit...
And it’s easier to get to the xyz thingy since exhaust is taken out. Might be two mice in on hit...
