Disco 2 grease nipples/bellhousing

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1988smithy

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West midlands
Hi All, just ordered a grease gun and some cartridges of grease as I want to grease everything with a nipple on it (hurrhurr)
Couple of questions-
Is it prudent to get some new nipples in case the originals are blocked? If yes do I need M6 size or different?

Are there any other grease points other than the (correct me if I'm wrong I've only had a quick look) UJs and front prop? I.e greasable hubs?
I looked at the hubs but coudnt see any?

I understand the front prop has an allen blanking plug in it which needs to be removed and a nipple inserted. Can the nipple be left in afterwards or will it foul on something?

Finally there's no grease point on the rear prop is there?
Phew, thanks
 
The standard fit for the Disco 2 has a grease nipple on the front U/J and a removable grub screw on the sliding joint. The rear prop shaft has the same fit, U/J and sliding joint.
I have replaced both of the grub screws on mine with grease nipples with no adverse effects.
When I replaced the front prop shaft, I chose one which had greasing nipples on the double cardan joint, the set-up at the T-box end.
One thing I have found to be useful was to replace the grease nipples on the U/Js for some slightly longer ones. This allows a standard grease gun nozzle to fit a little easier than the original fit.
There are no other original fit greasing points, however any previous owner might have replaced some ball joints on the steering, such as track rod ends with "greaseable" ones. For that you're going to have to check yourself.
As an aside, I use "Moly-grease" in the U/Js and sliding joints. It's a lithium based "LM" spec grease with molybdenum disulphide suspended in it. Moly grease can also be used in the C/V joints too, I believe.
 
That's grand thank you. Just crawled under the car and got everything located, big help thanks!

I'll get some longer nipples ordered as knowing my luck they'll be blocked anyway :rolleyes:

The track rods standard, another job done this year :confused:

I've read the standard double cardan joint is a 'greased for life' affair? Yeah right Land Rover....

Then its engine oil and filters, g/box and t/box oils and diff oils then I might treat myself to a remap
 
I've read the standard double cardan joint is a 'greased for life' affair? Yeah right Land Rover....
Yes, that's right. When I replaced my front prop shaft I managed to find an aftermarket one with greasing points on the end bearing caps of each of the U/Js in the double cardan joint. The only part not reachable is then the centering bearing between the two U/Js.
 
Yes, that's right. When I replaced my front prop shaft I managed to find an aftermarket one with greasing points on the end bearing caps of each of the U/Js in the double cardan joint. The only part not reachable is then the centering bearing between the two U/Js.

Would that be something worth doing as a preventative thing or just if the propshaft needed replacing? I'm guessing if the original fails you get a big mess

Also do you know the thread size of the nipples I need?
Cheers
 
Would that be something worth doing as a preventative thing or just if the propshaft needed replacing? I'm guessing if the original fails you get a big mess

Also do you know the thread size of the nipples I need?
Cheers

If it fails, then yep, you do tend to get a bit of a mess but you'll get quite a bit of warning usually in the form of lots of vibration.
Seriously, I wouldn't bother unless you are going to replace the front prop shaft.
As far as I can remember (I think I had my breakfast this morning) the grease nipples are a standard 6mm thread. I think the longer nipples I used were about 3/4 inches long. Too long and they could bind when the U/J bends and too short and you won't get a grease gun on them.
 
are a standard 6mm thread.

I did thunk they were 1/4 UNF, but then I am probably wrong..................will not be the first time.
I did buy some , but then I lost them !!!, or maybe I put them somewhere safe???? what I do now, is undo one from another grease nipple and stick it in the prop hole once the grub screw is removed.

One of these days I will measure the thread and get some replacements.

Cheers
 
It is worth looking after your prop,

The D2 my Father just got, there is a bill for this year, Front prop, £340 Squid.

Get the grease guns out.....LOL

Cheers
 
It is worth looking after your prop,

The D2 my Father just got, there is a bill for this year, Front prop, £340 Squid.

Get the grease guns out.....LOL

Cheers
Exactly what I'm trying to avoid!
Bit cheeky but while I'm here is this my bell housing wading plug? If it is shouldn't it be removed normally?
And maybe a seal somewhere to replace as well :(
 

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bell housing wading plug?

Mine is in place, I think if you look closely there is a slot on the TD5 , where the bellhousing is fitted at the bottom near the wading plug, iirc mine has a slot it is approx 2mm x 5mm . So the wading plug can be left in place and only removed for maintenance and to check no fluid is leaking.

But thanks, reminded me to fit mine b4 this weekend of offroadin.....

Cheers
 
I stuck a cable up mine................oooohhh that does not sound good..................to make sure it is clear.

I am off to the same place for a club meet. ...:D:D:D

Cheers

Cable in your hole, bigger nipples, this is getting sordid..

Enjoy your dirty weekend :D
 
We have acquired a couple of spare D2 front props over the years, the centering bearing is available and so are regreasable U/J's.

We buy the parts and then get the props rebuilt and balanced by an outside company.

Peter
 
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