Disco 1 Disco 1 Rust repair prep

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sv_dOnut

Member
Posts
23
Doing some rust assessment on my Disco 1 that I now have owned for a couple of months. Dont really know why I'm liking the car more and more the more I drive it, even our dog prefers riding the Disco 1 over our other cars :D So I knew there was some rust when buying the car but didn't really know how bad it was, but reading other threads I'm starting to thing its kind of OK. The funny part is that if I would have found this much rust in any other of our cars I wouldn't spend one more penny on it :oops:

So I will have a friend repairing the the rust as I cant really spend time on that issue right now. But I will try to source as many replacement panels as I can. So some help on what panels I need would really be appreciated, and also if I should look for rust in other parts. I will try to repair most of the rust from the back to the B pillar for now, I know there is a small amount of rust (holes) in the foot well on the drivers side but I will leave that for now. I live in Sweden so if anyone knows if panels can be found here would be great or if one can recommend a UK shop that ships to Sweden, found https://rimmerbros.com/ and I think they ship to Sweden.

So some picture:
PXL_20240814_070646311.MP.jpg
PXL_20240814_070628111.MP.jpg

Body mounts in the rear, they have rotten badly and will be replaced. Ive seen these being bought but dont know it there is a part number for these?

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PXL_20240814_070344789.MP.jpg

The boot floor looks ok and feels solid except for a hole in the right side, maybe a patch is enought here? Whats worse is the panel under the rear door on the inside and outside of the door. Dont know if this is one big panel that can be replaced or multiple? Guess I need to remove the rear bumper also to check how everything looks there.

PXL_20240814_070302622.MP.jpg
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The left side back wheel arch is the worst and the belt mount has rusted loose. This will make it fail the next inspection and must be repaired. I think I need MWC4841 and maybe I should replace the whole inner wheel arch as well with ALR3789. I have seen patches that go where the belt mount is but I have rust on the side as well that goes further back.
Dont know what to do about the rust on the floor, some kind of panel or patch?
PXL_20240814_070554575.MP.jpg

This is from below (left side), so maybe replacing the whole sill also instead of patching is easier?

PXL_20240814_070435594.MP.jpg

Right side Sill.


Any feedback regarding replacement panels or anything else would be very appreciated. Dont know that to do on all the surface rust, grind it down and protect it with some kind of coating?

The car doesn't need to get into perfect condition, I'm aiming to get maybe 100 000 km more out from it. The interior is in really good condition, the engine runs great, etc. The only thing I know doesnt work is the cruise control and one of the front seat heaters.
 
Doing some rust assessment on my Disco 1 that I now have owned for a couple of months. Dont really know why I'm liking the car more and more the more I drive it, even our dog prefers riding the Disco 1 over our other cars :D So I knew there was some rust when buying the car but didn't really know how bad it was, but reading other threads I'm starting to thing its kind of OK. The funny part is that if I would have found this much rust in any other of our cars I wouldn't spend one more penny on it :oops:

So I will have a friend repairing the the rust as I cant really spend time on that issue right now. But I will try to source as many replacement panels as I can. So some help on what panels I need would really be appreciated, and also if I should look for rust in other parts. I will try to repair most of the rust from the back to the B pillar for now, I know there is a small amount of rust (holes) in the foot well on the drivers side but I will leave that for now. I live in Sweden so if anyone knows if panels can be found here would be great or if one can recommend a UK shop that ships to Sweden, found https://rimmerbros.com/ and I think they ship to Sweden.

So some picture:
View attachment 323772View attachment 323773
Body mounts in the rear, they have rotten badly and will be replaced. Ive seen these being bought but dont know it there is a part number for these?

View attachment 323774View attachment 323775
The boot floor looks ok and feels solid except for a hole in the right side, maybe a patch is enought here? Whats worse is the panel under the rear door on the inside and outside of the door. Dont know if this is one big panel that can be replaced or multiple? Guess I need to remove the rear bumper also to check how everything looks there.

View attachment 323776View attachment 323777
The left side back wheel arch is the worst and the belt mount has rusted loose. This will make it fail the next inspection and must be repaired. I think I need MWC4841 and maybe I should replace the whole inner wheel arch as well with ALR3789. I have seen patches that go where the belt mount is but I have rust on the side as well that goes further back.
Dont know what to do about the rust on the floor, some kind of panel or patch?
View attachment 323778
This is from below (left side), so maybe replacing the whole sill also instead of patching is easier?

View attachment 323779
Right side Sill.


Any feedback regarding replacement panels or anything else would be very appreciated. Dont know that to do on all the surface rust, grind it down and protect it with some kind of coating?

The car doesn't need to get into perfect condition, I'm aiming to get maybe 100 000 km more out from it. The interior is in really good condition, the engine runs great, etc. The only thing I know doesnt work is the cruise control and one of the front seat heaters.

Hi Pal heres a link to yrm in the uk not sure if they post to your location but worth asking.
https://yrmit.co.uk/vehicle/discove...CD*MTcyMzY2MTg1My4xLjEuMTcyMzY2MTk5Mi4wLjAuMA..

They do loads of stuff for the disco 1, as for the sills every time I buy a D1 with rotten sills I replace them with box section
& fit new mounts they will never need welded again. :)

Cheers Kev
 
Hi Pal heres a link to yrm in the uk not sure if they post to your location but worth asking.
https://yrmit.co.uk/vehicle/discove...CD*MTcyMzY2MTg1My4xLjEuMTcyMzY2MTk5Mi4wLjAuMA..

They do loads of stuff for the disco 1, as for the sills every time I buy a D1 with rotten sills I replace them with box section
& fit new mounts they will never need welded again. :)

Cheers Kev
Added some items to the basket on yrmit and was able to select postage to Sweden in the checkout so sure does seem like they ship to Sweden 👍

I guess I can use this in the back https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-cross-member-lr-discovery-1/ instead of buying mounts separately and trying to patch the holes under the rear door?

What size do you use on the box section?
 
IIrc it was 60mm x 100mm x 1400mm, the inner sill narrows a little at the top so I cut a 5mm strip out the centre
done it the full length clamped & welded it. Its so snug it didnt need clamped in place lol.
Thats great that they post to you. Now you can start a project thread & put up pics.

Yup id chop the crossmember off & replace it now you can buy it with the mounts. :cool:
 
Have a look at my “try again” thread mate but don’t get too scared.

To get you started typical areas that go and reasons why:

Rear quarters

Rear alpine windows

Boot floor

Inner wings

Front light boxes

Footwells - get rid of that **** sound deadening in your footwells - it’ll rot them out!

Holes under windscreen corner where inner wing meets bulkhead - this allows dripping down a pillar inner and will rot them out and also soak your carpets. Pull out that seam sealer with a pick and reseal with puraflex or similar or weld up the holes.

A pillar bottoms - sunroof drain if present - extend it and/or drill bottoms to allow water out.

B post bottoms and seat belt mounting point - inclusive of cage - inspect here.

C posts and rear arches - rot at the join. Check.

Rear arches and will join panel

Rear arch tub inner inclusive of seatbelt bolt mount
Sills

Headlight box body mounts
Footwell body mounts
Sill body mounts

Rear crossmember inclusive of mounts.

Don’t assume these have all gone but tag us in anything and one of us will likely have the answer or a way around as I’ve done the above and more. There are work around sand tips and tricks in areas that will aid you to get it straight.

For example, I’d do the rear crossmember as one (with the finishing plates) and weld a bar across the rear door aperture to stop any splay.
 
Have a look at my “try again” thread mate but don’t get too scared.

To get you started typical areas that go and reasons why:

Rear quarters

Rear alpine windows

Boot floor

Inner wings

Front light boxes

Footwells - get rid of that **** sound deadening in your footwells - it’ll rot them out!

Holes under windscreen corner where inner wing meets bulkhead - this allows dripping down a pillar inner and will rot them out and also soak your carpets. Pull out that seam sealer with a pick and reseal with puraflex or similar or weld up the holes.

A pillar bottoms - sunroof drain if present - extend it and/or drill bottoms to allow water out.

B post bottoms and seat belt mounting point - inclusive of cage - inspect here.

C posts and rear arches - rot at the join. Check.

Rear arches and will join panel

Rear arch tub inner inclusive of seatbelt bolt mount
Sills

Headlight box body mounts
Footwell body mounts
Sill body mounts

Rear crossmember inclusive of mounts.

Don’t assume these have all gone but tag us in anything and one of us will likely have the answer or a way around as I’ve done the above and more. There are work around sand tips and tricks in areas that will aid you to get it straight.

For example, I’d do the rear crossmember as one (with the finishing plates) and weld a bar across the rear door aperture to stop any splay.
Started reading your Try again thread, came all the way to where you did the near side. I aired the sound proofing material in the footwells a couple of week ago because they where wet, but guess its better to strip them out completely as you say. Do I put something there instead of them or just go with the carpet?

I'm really happy my car doesn't have any sunroofs, have one in my daily driver car but has maybe been open 5 times in 3 years and thats when the kids open them. All the seals look really good around the windows, to my understanding the previous owner stored the car in a garage most of the time.

To not get overwhelmed I will start from the rear with the rear cross member, buying it with the body mounts. Im thinking of redoing the whole boot floor with sides and left wheel arch, but this will depend on how much the bootfloor costs and if someone will ship it from the UK to Sweden, and also how hard it will be to do it later. And also doing the sills with new body mounts, need to inspect B and C pillars. As my time is limited right now, struggling to take my self some time to even order parts, someone else will do the repair work.
 
These are the parts I'm looking into buying from YRM
Screenshot 2024-08-26 195500.png


Dont know if I'm missing anything? Did not find the inner wheel arch from YRM, LR427NS, so will have to order it from somewhere else.
 
Boot floor sits cradled in these
Isnt this "included" in this part https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-floor-side-panel-lr-discovery-1-rrc/ ? Except this is the whole panel all the way to the side? Found that they had a complete kit for the boot floor with all the parts https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-boot-floor-kit-discovery-1/ . For the rear I guess its included in the rear cross member. I sent a emal to YRM, asking. Also want to checkt that they can send it all to Sweden.
 
Isnt this "included" in this part https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-floor-side-panel-lr-discovery-1-rrc/ ? Except this is the whole panel all the way to the side? Found that they had a complete kit for the boot floor with all the parts https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-boot-floor-kit-discovery-1/ . For the rear I guess its included in the rear cross member. I sent a emal to YRM, asking. Also want to checkt that they can send it all to Sweden.
Ok, 900 gbp later, and probably vat and tolls on this when it arrives to sweden :oops: But this should include everything I need. Now I just need to wait probably around 2weeks for everything to arrive.

Are the plastic that sits on the sills (below the doors) hard to remove? Need to get myself a service manual...
 
Ok, 900 gbp later, and probably vat and tolls on this when it arrives to sweden :oops: But this should include everything I need. Now I just need to wait probably around 2weeks for everything to arrive.

Are the plastic that sits on the sills (below the doors) hard to remove? Need to get myself a service manual...

Screenshot 2024-09-02 203040.png

Found this, should be no problem.
 
Excellent mate. Let’s us know how you get on. Those little rivets will likely break when you pull them. You can get them on eBay in a bag which will probably post to you. A lot of people don’t put them back on as they allow wet mud and junk to sit behind them but I think they look nice to finish it off
 
Once you pop you cant stop. Removed the plastic over the sills and just had to continue looking into the footweels in the front. Knew the drivers side was bad but found a hole in the passenger side also. But the sills where in better condition than expected, and the A and B posts looked ok, a small hole in the A pillar at the drivers side but not to bad. So canceled the B-Post repair panels.

IMG_20240904_184558.jpg
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Drilled out the plastic plugs, seems impossible to get them out whole anyway. The Foam in the footweels were soaking wet so I cut them out. Received a ETA on the parts for middle of next week. Thinking about maybe using Hammerite black paint on the parts that arent visible, some kind of rust protection on the sills and need to buy green paint for the wheel arch.

Had a problem with a leaking P-Gasket earlier which I replaced, took a look into the thermostat housing yesterday and found that there was no coolant in there, topped it up with maybe 2 dl of coolant. Need to look into that later. Cant see any leak so maybe time for a head rebuild. But one thing at a time.


IMG_20240904_193412.jpg
An other ongoing project. One could believe that I just love old English machinery :) Anyone that knows a good place to find parts for old JCB equipment? Need a new engine temperature sensor atm, my local dealers keep on sending wrong parts...

Next Ill remove the rear bumper to find out the condition of that.
 
Once you pop you cant stop. Removed the plastic over the sills and just had to continue looking into the footweels in the front. Knew the drivers side was bad but found a hole in the passenger side also. But the sills where in better condition than expected, and the A and B posts looked ok, a small hole in the A pillar at the drivers side but not to bad. So canceled the B-Post repair panels.

View attachment 325288View attachment 325289
View attachment 325290View attachment 325291

Drilled out the plastic plugs, seems impossible to get them out whole anyway. The Foam in the footweels were soaking wet so I cut them out. Received a ETA on the parts for middle of next week. Thinking about maybe using Hammerite black paint on the parts that arent visible, some kind of rust protection on the sills and need to buy green paint for the wheel arch.

Had a problem with a leaking P-Gasket earlier which I replaced, took a look into the thermostat housing yesterday and found that there was no coolant in there, topped it up with maybe 2 dl of coolant. Need to look into that later. Cant see any leak so maybe time for a head rebuild. But one thing at a time.


View attachment 325292 An other ongoing project. One could believe that I just love old English machinery :) Anyone that knows a good place to find parts for old JCB equipment? Need a new engine temperature sensor atm, my local dealers keep on sending wrong parts...

Next Ill remove the rear bumper to find out the condition of that.
I found that a lot of the water ending up in the footwells is actually getting in through the side of the windscreen and running down the a pillar. Disco 3 had a recall for this and a strip was added to the side of the windscreen(saw this in a "LR Time" video). I put "dum dum" down the side my disco 2 windscreen and it stopped the carpets getting wet.
 
I found that a lot of the water ending up in the footwells is actually getting in through the side of the windscreen and running down the a pillar. Disco 3 had a recall for this and a strip was added to the side of the windscreen(saw this in a "LR Time" video). I put "dum dum" down the side my disco 2 windscreen and it stopped the carpets getting wet.
Yes. I think this is what resto_d1 is referring to also in his reply above "Holes under windscreen corner where inner wing meets bulkhead - this allows dripping down a pillar inner and will rot them out and also soak your carpets. Pull out that seam sealer with a pick and reseal with puraflex or similar or weld up the holes." Havent had a look there, need to do that.
 
I have an old JCB and a dumper. Try the "Classic Machinery Network" forum. Lots of good advice there.

Otherwise, https://vicaryplant.com can help you, if you send your machines serial number.
Thanks, contacted them. Maybe the problem for me has been that some sensors have been attached later on because they couldn't find that a engine temp sensor should be fitted in mine.
 
Yes. I think this is what resto_d1 is referring to also in his reply above "Holes under windscreen corner where inner wing meets bulkhead - this allows dripping down a pillar inner and will rot them out and also soak your carpets. Pull out that seam sealer with a pick and reseal with puraflex or similar or weld up the holes." Havent had a look there, need to do that.
I’ve done the top of windscreen, corners referred to, edges of scuttle and top of a pillars. I have a small leak still but it’s from a previous repair on inner wing that someone’s done and not put seam sealer on. You can get them water tight! Any of your parts arrived yet? Get yourself a couple of decent spot weld drill bits mate - they make it so much easier. You don’t really have to rip anything out in anger, most stuff detaches nicely provided you’ve drilled all required spots
 
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