disco 1 rear floor-rottern

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Well from what I've looked at, the box section sills seems like the most practical and realistic option to do. If you type in box section sills in the search box you'll get a load of useful results. Like I said, it's cheaper, easier and much stronger, as they'll pretty much act as rock sliders and something else to jack up. They'll also last longer as there's fewer bits for mud to wedge in, as long as you cap the ends! Just make sure they're painted well.
 
offroader84 said:
cheers vivnap,your work looks really good are you a pro,the sills look alot harder and fiddly then the rear floor im not looking forward to doing them :faint2:

atb lee
Click to expand...


cheers :)
im not a pro but i did do a few years and a lot of work in a friends bodyshop repairing writeoffs. from nissan micras, vans, lorries to a £37,000 rolls royce ! i did a hell of a lot of jigging, stripping, cutting, welding, rebuilding and painting.

its better to do it right than it is to bodge it unless its already a shed :)
but if your going to keep it then the hard way is the best way in my opinion and its very satisfiying to have done the job right and it also shows when you come to sell it.

the sills are hard to do but once you have done one side the other side is easy cos you will be familiar with the best way to work it. once you got the drilling of spot welds with out going through both panels its a doddle :)

if ya need any advise just ask ill help you where i can :)
 
jmattley said:
My plan, since they'll probably need doing sometime is to replace my sills on my D1 with box section so that they stronger, cheaper, act as rock sliders and something jackable and also easier to do than standard sills. Surely thats easier than replacing them with standard right?
I also plan to swap my boot floor (which is pretty horrific!) with a piece of 3mm ally chequer plate. Would that not be easier and longer lasting than the replacement?
Click to expand...

ever seen what ally and steel joined together does ?

the chemical reaction rots the hell out of the ally and dont do the steel no good either.
 
vizlauk heres the pics of the arches you wanted :)
this is the ones i did of the drivers side.
 

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cheers vivnap,i think i will def be asking for your advice as soon as i start so beware lol.
thanks alot mate its much appreciated :)

atb lee
 
and pass side.
 

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Last edited:
vivnap said:
cheers :)
im not a pro but i did do a few years and a lot of work in a friends bodyshop repairing writeoffs. from nissan micras, vans, lorries to a £37,000 rolls royce ! i did a hell of a lot of jigging, stripping, cutting, welding, rebuilding and painting.

its better to do it right than it is to bodge it unless its already a shed :)
but if your going to keep it then the hard way is the best way in my opinion and its very satisfiying to have done the job right and it also shows when you come to sell it.

the sills are hard to do but once you have done one side the other side is easy cos you will be familiar with the best way to work it. once you got the drilling of spot welds with out going through both panels its a doddle :)

if ya need any advise just ask ill help you where i can :)
Click to expand...

I see exactly what you mean, and I've always tried to do jobs properly and to the best of my ability, I'm definitely not a bodge a artist!
I just find with the sills that instead of buying separate rock sliders or bashing the standard sills, that it would be both practical and economical to replace them with a perfectly safe, neat and heavy duty alternative.

Or is that just me?
 
hello ofroader i just read your first post[been bad fettle over hols] when i rebuilt my rangie i bought a piece of alloy 5bar tread plate cut to my own size for £35 from the local stockists its 4mm thick,i renewed the cross bars with 3/4 square section then sealed round with silicone then pop riveted it in as per origonal no bother.Imust admit when i started it looked like a HUGE job but when you get your head round it ,no bother take it a bit at a time mate---steady away ...dave
 
For the rear floor look on ebay :) you can get the crossmembers for £10 each and the size z sections but i can't remember how much and the boot floor is about £56 there
 
thinking of buying a new mig myself. used to have a nice SIP mig around 14yrs ago but it ended up being permanently borrowed by the pikey shed raiding weasels.
is it worth getting a nogas mig or wouldnt you guys use them as wheel chocks?
 
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