Dinitrol spaying guide

I’m planning on applying dinitrol rust converter and wax etc to my defender 110 hard top next week. I have had the underside and chassis steam cleaned. I have dinitrol which is compatible with application using an air compressor.

Just wondering if there are any tips on application? I understand that dinitrol have an application guide for the defender but I can’t get a copy. Does anyone have a copy they can share?

Thanks, martin

I dont know what the weather like where you are? but I would say you want at least two weeks of decent weather to make sure the chassis is dry inside.

lynall said:

I dont know what the weather like where you are? but I would say you want at least two weeks of decent weather to make sure the chassis is dry inside.

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The chances of getting 2 weeks of decent weather in Donegal are pretty slim

Ironstrike said:

The chances of getting 2 weeks of decent weather in Donegal are pretty slim

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And that's even in a shed.lol

Spray liberally, touch up regularly!

As well as the chassis, put some of the thin runny stuff (the ML) in your doors too. I put my nozzle up through the drain holes in the bottom of the doors in 2013 and even now when i take the door trim panel off, it's nice and black inside with no sign of rust on the door frame. Similarly, try and get some inside the box sections in the bulkhead via the hinge bolt holes. It's probably worth getting the centre crossmember out (if you have one that unbolts) and get some on the mating faces where it joins the chassis rails. That's a place where corrosion can eat into the chassis rails if left untreated.

For touch ups, where it's not worth getting the compressor out, i just use a brush for the thick stuff and a plastic spray bottle with a trigger for the ML. Also useful when I dismantle anything, so I can dab a bit on any unprotected ferrous metal before putting things back together.