Difficult to get in gear!

Managed to get back home, a little tense at red lights, but generelly it went ok. Still the same "fix" applied, pumping the clutch with the car out of gear while rolling to a stop. When changing from third to four no problems, two or three times a little grinding getting it in fifth (god, I hate that grinding sound!). Have ordered a new master/slave mech, and a new bracket. Intend to pull the cap of old master cylinder when the new one is installed, to see if fluid level is low. It will probably arrive by the end of the week. To try to isolate problems, I will change gearbox oil tomorrow... Thank's for your suggestions and knowledge, got a buzz out of the fact, that I was "in the wild", and able to get help!

So, a little progress. I got the bracket of today, keeping the slave cylinder fixed with strips, so the rod could not pull out.

Old bracket was rusty - and bend. Maybe not so easy to see on the attached images, but very clear when compared to the new bracket, I put in.

The result is a bit unclear, it feels better and easier to get in gear, still a little trouble with reverse (could maybe be a different problem?). A longer drive tomorrow will reveal more, maybe. When having someone in the car operating the clutch, I still see some movement in new bracket/clutch cylinder.

The clutch arm (the one that goes into the gearbox) I sprayed with lots of WD40 where it enters gearbox. I'm thinking that maybe theres a problem here, I mean, the bracket (old one) must have bend for a reason?

And, is tolerances that low, that a bracket bend a couple of mill, could give these gear engaging problems?

I would think that the arm is siezed that goes into the gearbox. Your bent bracket proves this. Hopefully you can un sieze it with some wd40 but worst case you will have to remove gearbox

It took few days for mine to ease up ....spraying and wriggling the arm with a pair of grips.

There's no reverse synchro on these gearboxes...best to give it a couple of seconds after stopping completely and selecting reverse or it will just grind... if that's what is happening.

Kizzeh said:

I would think that the arm is siezed that goes into the gearbox. Your bent bracket proves this. Hopefully you can un sieze it with some wd40 but worst case you will have to remove gearbox

Click to expand...

Thanks Kizzeh. Yes, this is what I sort of concluded as well. Have sprayed and massaged with lots of WD40, so hoping for the best now!

Brack said:

It took few days for mine to ease up ....spraying and wriggling the arm with a pair of grips.

There's no reverse synchro on these gearboxes...best to give it a couple of seconds after stopping completely and selecting reverse or it will just grind... if that's what is happening.

Click to expand...

Thanks Brack - so there's hope Your description is what happens, it grinds. Will try to wait a little before selecting reverse, to see if there's a difference.

Problem solved!

Today I changed the master/slave clutch cylinder-one-thing-piece, with a new one from Bearmach (£35). Not an easy job! I've read it should be easy, and maybe it is in RHD cars, but in a LHD drive car, there's pretty much no room for hands or master cylinder, when you try to remove it! I have shredded hands, and had to use a lot of violent power to get it out (due to the position in a LHD car, it can't be pulled straight out, nor can it be inserted straight).

With the new master/slave in place, bite-point of the clutch is MUCH higher on the pedal, and no problems what so ever engaging gears.

I'm a happy camper! And "Rovie" is good to go again

Pulled cap of old master cylinder, no indicator for fluid level, but it seems a little low to my eyes, also, pumping the master cylinder with my hands, I noticed a little fluid coming out. So, no doubt it was leaking, and probably sucking air on reverse travel (see attached image). Image 2 is new slave and bracket in position, and the leaver arm (after massaged with lots of WD40) greased.

Thank's to all of you, for your support and suggestions!