diff wows???

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newlad said:
hello all, was just wondering, do the diff nuts or hub bolts need to be set at a talk setting? if so what?
thanks
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the only quoted torqe settings in my S3 manual are for the drive flange bolts at 30 to 38 lbf.f or 4.2 to 5.2 N.m and the driveshaft to flange bolt at 10 to 15lbf.f or 1.4 to 2 N.m. There's nothing for the diff case nuts.
 
hi all, put my landy back together today and finally set off in her, everything fine until coasting, massive noise, can only describe as bbbrrrrring grinding rubbing noise, very loud, my suspisions were obviously with what i've done initially, but been over my work and cant see anything to blame, the only thing on my mind now is - could it be in the gearbox? but only happens when coasting?! really confused now and gutted, it stops when in 4wd which also made me think it was my work on the rear axle but i did everything by the book,
any thought welcome, cheers
 
i had another inspection over my work and the only thing i noticed was that the crown nut on the nose of the diff wasn't tight, tightened that up and the noise has subsided but is still there when your going and ease off the throttle!! i have slight play in my UJ's but that was there before this noise, i had replace the seal on the diff but that went back in fine!!
any thoughts??!:confused:
 
The diff flange nut needs to be quite tight - 85ftlb - and there should be virtually no play in the bearing. The bearing preload is set by shims not by the torque on the nut.
 
ujs shouldnt have any free play and niether diff brgs , the noise on over run is classic diff wear,i would recheck to make sure theres no freeplay in diff flange ,and check pinion brgs and pinion for wear
 
sorry aint been on for a while, been busying myself with the mk2 gti golf! anyway back to business,
basically i need to take the diff backout and go through it?
never been inside one before, any advice?
cheers
 
mark caps with dot punch so you know which fits to each side ,undo pinion nut remove flange ,remove roll pins in caps remove diff carrier keep brg races to respective side,remove pinion look out for 2 shims which sit between brgs drive out seal check brgs,only buy timken brgs 539706 inner pinion brg 539707 outer pinion brg
 
jamesmartin said:
mark caps with dot punch so you know which fits to each side ,undo pinion nut remove flange ,remove roll pins in caps remove diff carrier keep brg races to respective side,remove pinion look out for 2 shims which sit between brgs drive out seal check brgs,only buy timken brgs 539706 inner pinion brg 539707 outer pinion brg
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hi, i know its been a very long time since i've been on, getting married and sorting the dam mk2 gti has taken the priority of late,
anyway, taken the diff off, so is replacing the inner and outer bearing about all i need to do as a sort of service? do i need to replace the shims?
i'm no expert by any means and this is the first time diff for me but there is no obvious sign of damage, abuse or excesive wear to the cogs,
thanks again to you all for the advice and support
 
if you use timken bearings 539706 and 539707 and seal frc8220 shimming should be allright ,there should be 2 shims between brgs on pinion and 1 shim behind inner race,keep diff carrier brg races sided and check if race looks good refit,carrier brgs are set by winding nut so that crown wheel and pinion back lash is just removed and then winding other nut to but a little backlash back about 6thou but a little by feel will be okay
 
jamesmartin said:
if you use timken bearings 539706 and 539707 and seal frc8220 shimming should be allright ,there should be 2 shims between brgs on pinion and 1 shim behind inner race,keep diff carrier brg races sided and check if race looks good refit,carrier brgs are set by winding nut so that crown wheel and pinion back lash is just removed and then winding other nut to but a little backlash back about 6thou but a little by feel will be okay
Click to expand...

cheers, any idea where i'd get 'timken' parts, i normally order off lrseries.com but theres are britpart,
thanks again
 
hi again, forgot to ask, i know its basic but, i recently had replaced the oil seal in the rear diff, it was right fora while but the leaked as bad as the old one, i tapped the new one in flush to the casing of the diff, should it go in further? or perhaps a more expensive seal needed?
 
a little further theres a fine step it sits against ,was flange seal contact area pitted, did you fill reverse of seal to hold garter spring in place tapping seal home can dislodge it,was there play in brgs as movement will make seal leak ,is breather blocked
 
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