Diff and Autobox oils

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Canyon

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Thinking about doing this task soon. Just wondering if anyone had used this oil from opie? Fuchs TITAN ATF 3000 Multipurpose Dexron II ATF

Dont know much about the brand, but have been told it it is factory fill for all german cars. Must be good then?

Didn't actually realise that there was a wide choice of brands to choose from. Always like to go by recommendation.

BTW any tips on doing this task? and how do I fill the transfer box?
 
Canyon said:
Thinking about doing this task soon. Just wondering if anyone had used this oil from opie? Fuchs TITAN ATF 3000 Multipurpose Dexron II ATF

Dont know much about the brand, but have been told it it is factory fill for all german cars. Must be good then?

Didn't actually realise that there was a wide choice of brands to choose from. Always like to go by recommendation.

BTW any tips on doing this task? and how do I fill the transfer box?
Click to expand...

For yours, the book says Dexron III ATF:) Dexron II is no longer made under licence to GM and therefore the spec is no longer controlled.
 
Cheap siphon pump off ebay is good for filling auto box and transfer case. On my classic at least....
 
Datatek said:
For yours, the book says Dexron III ATF:) Dexron II is no longer made under licence to GM and therefore the spec is no longer controlled.
Click to expand...

I called them earlier today and they basically said the according to the Fuchs guidelines this is the exact ATF I need. Note, it does not say anything about use with ZF gboxes...?
Fuchs TITAN ATF 3353 Automatic Transmission Fluid

Not sure what to order now...please help/advise!
 
either dexron 2 or 3 will do from most motor factors even later ones have same parts as early ,even failed boxes dont show signs of oil quality issues
 
Quick question regarding RAVE and Transfer box drain and refill. I had a good look through , no mention on how to do it..? Although I did find the capacities for refill states 2 litres and motorfactors are saying 3- well which one is it?
 
Would be more inclined to go with Rave (2L for a change) than motorfactors, after my local landy spares supplier wanted to sell me 12L of Land rover branded ATF for an auto gerabox oil change...thought £115+ was a bit steep just for a gearbox oil change! :)
 
2 x plug low one empty high one fill dexron 2 or 3 makes no difference jusy change yearly if want it to last ,you can buy 25 litres os dexron for £80 ish from local motor factors will do perfect,if you use garage thats all they will use ,there is no fancy seals of parts requiring fancy special oil jusy epicyclic gear set ,morse chain ,sprockets and a few ball brgs ,its changing regulary rather than fully synthetic thats important
 
jamesmartin said:
2 x plug low one empty high one fill dexron 2 or 3 makes no difference jusy change yearly if want it to last ,you can buy 25 litres os dexron for £80 ish from local motor factors will do perfect,if you use garage thats all they will use ,there is no fancy seals of parts requiring fancy special oil jusy epicyclic gear set ,morse chain ,sprockets and a few ball brgs ,its changing regulary rather than fully synthetic thats important
Click to expand...

Problem is I don't know if it has ever been changed, further more I'm reluctant to buy the best quality if I know only half of the old stuff is going to come out. Why can't the torque converter have drain and fill ports? Or are all auto boxes designed this way?
 
both boxes run on same oil ,all autos ive come across are the same ,its a heavy lump that looks like a half sphere with hole in centre so that as its bolted to engine it wont completely drain and requires to be precisely balanced as spins at engine speed,if old oil black needs fixing dont bother refilling will only make a possible fixable box worse, if oil brownish change and change again after a few miles,the oil is constantly circulating when running.you never know what oil was in before in make or spec but ive never found a box where this was an issue
 
just a quick note on fuchs, i work in a quarry as a plant fitter and we recently changed from castrol to fuchs. We have had no problems at all with them, all oil analasis reports have been fine and just as good as castrol, helpline good too. we obviously changed from castrol due to cost and not any other reason.
 
jamesmartin said:
2 x plug low one empty high one fill dexron 2 or 3 makes no difference jusy change yearly if want it to last ,you can buy 25 litres os dexron for £80 ish from local motor factors will do perfect,if you use garage thats all they will use ,there is no fancy seals of parts requiring fancy special oil jusy epicyclic gear set ,morse chain ,sprockets and a few ball brgs ,its changing regulary rather than fully synthetic thats important
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

Synthetic/semi synthetic oils were not reccomended when the V8 P38's were designed and built. The Classic 3.5 & 3.9 reccomended oils are Mineral based multigrade.
What's the use of putting expensive "Super" oils in components that were not designed to run on ??...Just a waste of money with no useful purpose being served. It's all about advertising hype.
Agree 100% with James, Wammers and a lot of others when they say that the most important thing is regular oil & filter changes to keep the interior of the engine/gearbox clean.
 
Totally agree with Irish etc, so would you put a budget atf and change more often? If so which brand have you used and was it ok?
 
yes ,but std oil is good quality ,its like bottled water sometimes paying more makes you feel better ,ive stripped and built alot and the only lubrication issues are none ,leaked out never checked ,left in too long contamination bits of metal through normal wear and tear and water through condensation or wading destroying hard faing on brgs and gears prematurley
 
Update: ordered my oils, going to use a hozelock pump spray bottle for the ATF fluid, not sure if the thicker diff oil will work with that plan, any suggestions?
 
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