Diesel starting problems!

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This is a sure sign of poor "engine-to-chassis-to-battery -ve" connections.

The voltage at the solenoid tag is going so low the thing is shutting off. You might want to take the solenoid stopper out and check it over, It may be on the way out, and they do fail, usually in the "Engine STOP" condition.

A separate "switch from live" is not a good solution and may not do any good.

Ideally, what is required is a really big fat earth cable bolted to the engine block with a BIG tag, all nice and clean, going right to the negative post of the battery.

Thanks for input CharlesY. Will get old cable removed and a replacment made. And take it from there.
 
Back to this old problem.
I have since read the 2.25d in the series, that the ignition switch shuts off power to stop solenoid when cranking. So ignition switch not suitable for the conversion of a 2.5na.

Any how, rebuild near complete. Not yet put the front wings on till eng runs. Starts ok when towed. But won't sit at idle nor will it start from key.

I found the cold start screw head was missing and thus weaping. ( at some point during rebuild it did start from key) Since then I made a new cold start screw as per another forum post. This i can not find again.

How do you set up cold start & idle on the Lucas CAV??
 
Back to this old problem.
I have since read the 2.25d in the series, that the ignition switch shuts off power to stop solenoid when cranking. So ignition switch not suitable for the conversion of a 2.5na.

If it was always a diesel engine Landy that should not happen.
I suggest the wiring is incorrect.
The Stop Solenoid terminal should always be live 12 volts in any Ign Key position except OFF.



Any how, rebuild near complete. Not yet put the front wings on till eng runs. Starts ok when towed. But won't sit at idle nor will it start from key.

Those are separate problems. Idle MUST be set ONLY by the little lever than leans on the fuel OUTLET on the top front of the pump. Make sure the pipes are fitted correctly - the pipe from the filter fits to the rear end of the DPA pump. The union at the front is the fuel RETURN. If these are fitted wrong way round engine will be a bummer to start but would run after a fashion.


I found the cold start screw head was missing and thus weeping.

What cold start screw are we taking about now?
Are we speaking about a 2.5 NA Sherpa 15J engine or an old 2.25 diesel?
Maybe you are involved with a BLEED SCREW?


( at some point during rebuild it did start from key) Since then I made a new cold start screw as per another forum post. This i can not find again.


Not understood if this is a 15J engine Injection pump.

How do you set up cold start & idle on the Lucas CAV??


First get the engine running, and leave it running.

Second, undo the lock screw on the slow running lever that leans on the FRONT fuel pipe union, then screw in the adjuster screw till the engine speeds up a little. Lock it there temporarily.

Third, go to the throttle linkage / cable (whichever) and MAKE CERTAIN that when your boot is OFF the throttle pedal there is SLACK aka FREE PLAY in the linkage. If not, back it off till there is.

Fourth, go back to the slow running lever and adjust it to the correct speed, about 650 - 700 rpm usually. Remember to snug the little locknut
.

You will need to be sure what engine and injection pump you have.


2.25 and 2.5 diesels use entirely different systems.
 
Back to this old problem.
I have since read the 2.25d in the series, that the ignition switch shuts off power to stop solenoid when cranking. So ignition switch not suitable for the conversion of a 2.5na.

I would like to read that!
Can you find it for me?

If they were wired that way these engines would never start!
 
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