diesel oil for wrangler?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
O

obirer

Guest
I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
winters.

What do you guys suggest?

Ozzy...
 
obirer wrote:
> I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> winters.
>
> What do you guys suggest?

Replace the seal.

If your reasonably competant with tools it's not that much of a job.
Just takes a while to break everyhing down. But before you do that
make darn sure it's not your valve cover that's dripping down.
(more common for the rear to leak, but who knows)

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors


 
The seal costs about $30.00 and can be changed in an hour or two in the
driveway.

$700.00??????

Holy crap!

And I would stay away from diesel oil. It has the wrong additives for a
gas engine.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

obirer wrote:
>
> I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> winters.
>
> What do you guys suggest?
>
> Ozzy...
 
My theory is that thicker oil will not flow through the relatively smaller
oil passages as well as oil intended for your engine. You may get
insufficient oiling of bearings and especially pistons and rings if you use
it. Do yourself a favor and fix the leak instead. I am guessing two hours
labor tops for the job. No way does this add up to $700.

Earle

"obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> winters.
>
> What do you guys suggest?
>
> Ozzy...


 
Well, here is what says in the estimate;

Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
rear main oil seal $10.00
oil pan gasket $40.00
oil and filter: $25.00

I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
seal, is it not?

Is $700 still too high?

Ozzy





"Earle Horton" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> My theory is that thicker oil will not flow through the relatively smaller
> oil passages as well as oil intended for your engine. You may get
> insufficient oiling of bearings and especially pistons and rings if you use
> it. Do yourself a favor and fix the leak instead. I am guessing two hours
> labor tops for the job. No way does this add up to $700.
>
> Earle
>
> "obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> > front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> > I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> > sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> > PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> > plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> > winters.
> >
> > What do you guys suggest?
> >
> > Ozzy...
 

"obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, here is what says in the estimate;
>
> Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> rear main oil seal $10.00
> oil pan gasket $40.00
> oil and filter: $25.00
>
> I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> seal, is it not?
>
> Is $700 still too high?
>
> Ozzy
>

You're paying based on a flat rate manual. Many of those jobs can be done in
less than half the time, but they still charge the full 7 hours. Also, you
may want to shop around. I don't know about your area, but here $80 per hour
is high even for the dealers. Our dealers are about $60-65, but the
independent mechanics are even less, usually in the $45 range.

Chris


 
Rear main makes more sense for that kind of price. Is this one of the model
years where they have to remove and replace the transmission to get at the
seal? If it is, consider replacing the clutch at the same time.

Earle

"obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, here is what says in the estimate;
>
> Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> rear main oil seal $10.00
> oil pan gasket $40.00
> oil and filter: $25.00
>
> I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> seal, is it not?
>
> Is $700 still too high?
>
> Ozzy
>
>
>
>
>
> "Earle Horton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > My theory is that thicker oil will not flow through the relatively
smaller
> > oil passages as well as oil intended for your engine. You may get
> > insufficient oiling of bearings and especially pistons and rings if you
use
> > it. Do yourself a favor and fix the leak instead. I am guessing two
hours
> > labor tops for the job. No way does this add up to $700.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> > > front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> > > I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> > > sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> > > PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> > > plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> > > winters.
> > >
> > > What do you guys suggest?
> > >
> > > Ozzy...


 
obirer wrote:
> Well, here is what says in the estimate;
>
> Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> rear main oil seal $10.00
> oil pan gasket $40.00
> oil and filter: $25.00
>
> I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> seal, is it not?

Rear main seal on the crankshaft.

> Is $700 still too high?

Yes.

If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job

basically you just empty the oil, have a beer, drop the pan,
loosen the back two carrier bolts, and remove the seal. Then scrape
off any old oil pan gasket, put the new seals in, torque
the carrier bolts to spec, a little sealant, gasket, and the pan.
Add oil, and have a beer.

While your in there may as well clean the oil pickup screen. Just
remember to put it back....

Best to have a service book though.


 
Do you have the plastic valve cover? If so, it is almost certainly
where your leak is coming from.
Check very carefully, no matter which valve cover you have,
for leaks. They almost always look like a main bearing leak.
Wipe it down good, or take it to the car wash and spray it off,
or just replace the gasket, (it's cheap) and wait a few days to
see what happens.
Good luck, happy holiday

Tookie
 
On Fri, 4 Jul 2003 03:34:41 UTC "DougW" <[email protected]>
wrote:

> obirer wrote:
> > Well, here is what says in the estimate;
> >
> > Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> > rear main oil seal $10.00
> > oil pan gasket $40.00
> > oil and filter: $25.00
> >
> > I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> > seal, is it not?
>
> Rear main seal on the crankshaft.
>
> > Is $700 still too high?
>
> Yes.
>
> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job
>
> basically you just empty the oil, have a beer, drop the pan,
> loosen the back two carrier bolts, and remove the seal. Then scrape
> off any old oil pan gasket, put the new seals in, torque
> the carrier bolts to spec, a little sealant, gasket, and the pan.
> Add oil, and have a beer.
>
> While your in there may as well clean the oil pickup screen. Just
> remember to put it back....
>
> Best to have a service book though.

Yup, and cleaning the off the old pan gasket will probably take more
time than any other part of the job. Even on an 88 that, to all
appearances, never had the pan off in it's 150,000 miles I spent under
3 hours including scraping off the hardest, nastiest gasket I've ever
seen and pounding til my arm was tired before the upper seal half
finally gave. Of course, I was smart enough to pull the starter and
tranny mount (so that I could jack it up) to get enough clearance to
get the pan out...

--
Will Honea <[email protected]>
 
Ahh, so they sound like they are charging you to remove the engine to do
the seal change...

It 'can' be done from the bottom in the driveway. It is a good half
day's job for an amateur wrencher. A couple hours for an experienced
one. (the gasket clean on the oil pan can be the hardest part)

Before you think more on this, you should do yourself a favor and check
for the 'normal' cause of a 'rear main seal' leak. Nope, it isn't
'normally' the seal.

Start the engine up and run it for a bit, then take a clean rag and wipe
it around the back of the engine head just below the valve cover by the
firewall.

If the rag comes out with oil on it, you have found the leak.

The valve covers are really prone to leaking and because the engine is
tilted, the oil runs down the back of the engine. The bell housing has
a hole at the top and the oil just runs right straight down doing a real
sweet imitation of a blown rear seal.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

obirer wrote:
>
> Well, here is what says in the estimate;
>
> Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> rear main oil seal $10.00
> oil pan gasket $40.00
> oil and filter: $25.00
>
> I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> seal, is it not?
>
> Is $700 still too high?
>
> Ozzy
>
> "Earle Horton" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > My theory is that thicker oil will not flow through the relatively smaller
> > oil passages as well as oil intended for your engine. You may get
> > insufficient oiling of bearings and especially pistons and rings if you use
> > it. Do yourself a favor and fix the leak instead. I am guessing two hours
> > labor tops for the job. No way does this add up to $700.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> > > front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> > > I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> > > sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> > > PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> > > plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> > > winters.
> > >
> > > What do you guys suggest?
> > >
> > > Ozzy...
 

"DougW" <[email protected]> wrote in
> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job

Doug,

Are all works done by "Doug" rated in beers?

I HAVE to wonder what your missus thinks :). And don't tell us pleasing her
is a 10 beer job... then we'll KNOW you're full of it :)

Ian


 
daisho wrote:
> "DougW" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job
>
> Doug,
>
> Are all works done by "Doug" rated in beers?

Not always, often, but not always.

> I HAVE to wonder what your missus thinks :). And don't tell us pleasing her
> is a 10 beer job... then we'll KNOW you're full of it :)

no comment... ^_^

--
DougW


 
"DougW" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> obirer wrote:
> > Well, here is what says in the estimate;
> >
> > Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> > rear main oil seal $10.00
> > oil pan gasket $40.00
> > oil and filter: $25.00
> >
> > I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> > seal, is it not?
>
> Rear main seal on the crankshaft.
>
> > Is $700 still too high?
>
> Yes.
>
> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job
>
> basically you just empty the oil, have a beer, drop the pan,
> loosen the back two carrier bolts, and remove the seal. Then scrape
> off any old oil pan gasket, put the new seals in, torque
> the carrier bolts to spec, a little sealant, gasket, and the pan.
> Add oil, and have a beer.
>
> While your in there may as well clean the oil pickup screen. Just
> remember to put it back....
>
> Best to have a service book though.


Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?

what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?
 
"obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
SNIPPY
>
> Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
> removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?

This depends upon whether it is a split seal or not. I have a manual out in
the garage that might say. If it were my vehicle I would go look. ;o)

>
> what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
> the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?

These are like ****ing into the wind...

Earle


 
Is that dollars, or pesos?

Way out of line. Must have been the stealership





"Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
The seal costs about $30.00 and can be changed in an hour or two in the
driveway.

$700.00??????

Holy crap!

And I would stay away from diesel oil. It has the wrong additives for a
gas engine.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

obirer wrote:
>
> I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> winters.
>
> What do you guys suggest?
>
> Ozzy...


 
"Earle Horton" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> SNIPPY
> >
> > Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
> > removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?
>
> This depends upon whether it is a split seal or not. I have a manual out in
> the garage that might say. If it were my vehicle I would go look. ;o)
>
It IS a split seal...and it suggests to remove the trans.


> >
> > what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
> > the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?
>
> These are like ****ing into the wind...
>
> Earle
 
On Sat, 5 Jul 2003 02:02:06 UTC [email protected] (obirer) wrote:

> "Earle Horton" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > "obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > SNIPPY
> > >
> > > Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
> > > removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?
> >
> > This depends upon whether it is a split seal or not. I have a manual out in
> > the garage that might say. If it were my vehicle I would go look. ;o)
> >
> It IS a split seal...and it suggests to remove the trans.
>
>
> > >
> > > what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
> > > the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?
> >
> > These are like ****ing into the wind...

FSM for the 88 MJ/XJ just says to remove the starter as do both the
Chiltons and Haynes books I have. On both the 88 MJ and 91 XJ, you
actually have to jack up the rear of the engine a bit to slide the oil
pan back past the bellhousing - that's safer and easier if you unbolt
the rear tranny mount where ever it's easiest to get at. That might
be a tad tougher on the YJ with the skid plate and no lift but pulling
the tranny sounds like make-work to me - you would have to pull the
flywheel/flex plate for that to do any good.

--
Will Honea <[email protected]>
 
"Will Honea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
SNIPPY
> FSM for the 88 MJ/XJ just says to remove the starter as do both the
> Chiltons and Haynes books I have. On both the 88 MJ and 91 XJ, you
> actually have to jack up the rear of the engine a bit to slide the oil
> pan back past the bellhousing - that's safer and easier if you unbolt
> the rear tranny mount where ever it's easiest to get at. That might
> be a tad tougher on the YJ with the skid plate and no lift but pulling
> the tranny sounds like make-work to me - you would have to pull the
> flywheel/flex plate for that to do any good.
>
One piece seal cannot be removed or replaced intact with the transmission in
place...

Earle


 
"obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Earle Horton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > "obirer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > SNIPPY
> > >
> > > Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
> > > removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?
> >
> > This depends upon whether it is a split seal or not. I have a manual
> > out in the garage that might say. If it were my vehicle I would go
> > look. ;o)
> >
> It IS a split seal...and it suggests to remove the trans.
>
That's what you have to do then. Your $700 estimate isn't too far out of
line then. Think about replacing the clutch at the same time.

Earle


 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
P38A P38 2.5 dse engine noise?
8 9 10
Replies
184
Views
19K
Datatek
Datatek
M
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 - Oil / Diesel Leak Around Injector?
Replies
17
Views
3K
rover75lover
rover75lover
MScaggs
New Member Introduction
Replies
1
Views
531
Hippo
Hippo
youmitegetian
L322 Paper test for Diesel in engine oil
2 3
Replies
43
Views
10K
youmitegetian
youmitegetian
P
leaking clear oil from engine bay
Replies
7
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Back
Top