diesel engine code

wammers · Nov 27, 2014

Grrrrrr said:
Would there be any benefit in fitting a 150 amp alternator in a diesel?

It would certainly charge the battery quicker. The 150 amp alternator was fitted to the petrols to power the sparky things they have and help the poxy little battery Land rover fitted to them. Petrols use a lot more electrickery than a doozel does when running. Doozels need more power for cranking hence the larger capacity battery.

Grrrrrr · Nov 27, 2014

I put the big battery DataTek recommended on a few years back. Then read the alternator thread and thought it might be worth it as mine is a '95 model. Cannot remember what the alternator put on it was (failed before I even got home from buying it!) but was a straight swap.

Seems to charge all right!

wammers · Nov 27, 2014

Grrrrrr said:
I put the big battery DataTek recommended on a few years back. Then read the alternator thread and thought it might be worth it as mine is a '95 model. Cannot remember what the alternator put on it was (failed before I even got home from buying it!) but was a straight swap.

Seems to charge all right!

Lead acid batteries were reasonably happy with up to 13.8. Gel batteries need 14.1 to 14.2. Calcium batteries need above 14.4.

Datatek · Nov 28, 2014

Grrrrrr said:
Would there be any benefit in fitting a 150 amp alternator in a diesel?

No.

wammers said:
It would certainly charge the battery quicker. The 150 amp alternator was fitted to the petrols to power the sparky things they have and help the poxy little battery Land rover fitted to them. Petrols use a lot more electrickery than a doozel does when running. Doozels need more power for cranking hence the larger capacity battery.

Sorry, a 150 amp alternator will not charge a battery any quicker over all as the voltage output is regulated and it's the potential difference between battery voltage and alternator output voltage that controls current. After the first few seconds, battery voltage will have risen reducing the charge current to well below the alternator maximum output of even an 80 amp alternator.

wammers · Nov 28, 2014

Datatek said:
No.

Sorry, a 150 amp alternator will not charge a battery any quicker over all as the voltage output is regulated and it's the potential difference between battery voltage and alternator output voltage that controls current. After the first few seconds, battery voltage will have risen reducing the charge current to well below the alternator maximum output of even an 80 amp alternator.

So they should fit 5 amp alternators then, they must be cheaper to make and would save us a fortune in repair costs. The 150 amp alternator has a set point of 14.5 volts so i think it would.

Datatek · Nov 28, 2014

wammers said:
So they should fit 5 amp alternators then, they must be cheaper to make and would save us a fortune in repair costs. The 150 amp alternator has a set point of 14.5 volts so i think it would.

The amperage of the alternator is selected to run the equipment in the car, not for charging the battery.
Actually a 5 amp alternator would take longer to charge the battery, but not much, however it would not support the heated seats. screens, headlights and other power hungry devices.
As I said, it the potential difference between battery voltage and alternator voltage that controls the rate of charge, look at it on a data logger and you will see that immediately after starting, charge rate will be high for a few seconds, then dropping in a curve much the same as the end curve on the EAS valve and stabilising at a few amps, this is why it takes so long to recharge a flat battery from the alternator.

wammers · Nov 28, 2014

Datatek said:
The amperage of the alternator is selected to run the equipment in the car, not for charging the battery.
Actually a 5 amp alternator would take longer to charge the battery, but not much, however it would not support the heated seats. screens, headlights and other power hungry devices.
As I said, it the potential difference between battery voltage and alternator voltage that controls the rate of charge, look at it on a data logger and you will see that immediately after starting, charge rate will be high for a few seconds, then dropping in a curve much the same as the end curve on the EAS valve and stabilising at a few amps, this is why it takes so long to recharge a flat battery from the alternator.

Think i have already said that. It has to be capable of running the equipment AND maintaining the battery volts. The idea is to maintain battery volts and run the systems as needed. Rate increases as load increases to the limit of the output of the unit. If systems use more than the the alternator can provide then the battery will go flat. On a car where the battery is so low that it will not crank the engine. If that car is jumped and the engine allowed to run there will be sufficient power in the battery to crank the car in a very few minutes providing the battery is basically sound.

Datatek · Nov 28, 2014

wammers said:
Think i have already said that. It has to be capable of running the equipment AND maintaining the battery volts. The idea is to maintain battery volts and run the systems as needed. Rate increases as load increases to the limit of the output of the unit. If systems use more than the the alternator can provide then the battery will go flat. On a car where the battery is so low that it will not crank the engine. If that car is jumped and the engine allowed to run there will be sufficient power in the battery to crank the car in a very few minutes providing the battery is basically sound.

Really, I was replying to your facile suggestion of fitting a 5 amp alternator, you really are as short of experience on electrics as you seem to think I am on coolant leaks.

wammers · Nov 28, 2014

Datatek said:
Really, I was replying to your facile suggestion of fitting a 5 amp alternator, you really are as short of experience on electrics as you seem to think I am on coolant leaks.

Yes really. Read the thread. I know enough about them to get on thanks. Well it's not my fault you don't know that antifreeze leaks better than plain water does is it?

Datatek · Nov 29, 2014

wammers said:
Yes really. Read the thread. I know enough about them to get on thanks. Well it's not my fault you don't know that antifreeze leaks better than plain water does is it?

You have demonstrated how much you know about electrics with your comments on the D+ and fuel pump relay, what did you say? "It's doing my head in". then you insisted that zero volts and a few milliamps would hold an EAS solenoid, going back a bit you insisted that 13.9 volts was all that was needed from an alternator, I note that now you have moved to 14.4v.
Unlike you, I havent been everywhere, seen everything, done everything nor do I know everything. I haven't been in the forces, (rejected due to TB), I haven't been a diver or constructed aircraft, nor have I been a garage owner, all I have to show for my life's endeavors is 50+ years of electrical/electronic experience plus engine building and tuning as a hobby.
I'm still learning unlike you, for example I know feck all about the internals of the P38 injection pump and I would never claim to be knowledgeable about many of the mechanical aspects of a car but I do know where to get the information needed to make a decisions whether to attempt a job or not.
You introduced the subject of leaks, not me. My question was about a temperature difference with new coolant, you seem to like to throw in irrelevant comments. There may well be a greater propensity of anti freeze to leak when compared to water but it was not relevant on two counts, the comparison was between old and new antifreeze presumably with the same propensity to leak, secondly I have never had a problem on any car with coolant leaks apart from when a component fails.

wammers · Nov 29, 2014

Datatek said:
You have demonstrated how much you know about electrics with your comments on the D+ and fuel pump relay, what did you say? "It's doing my head in". then you insisted that zero volts and a few milliamps would hold an EAS solenoid, going back a bit you insisted that 13.9 volts was all that was needed from an alternator, I note that now you have moved to 14.4v.
Unlike you, I havent been everywhere, seen everything, done everything nor do I know everything. I haven't been in the forces, (rejected due to TB), I haven't been a diver or constructed aircraft, nor have I been a garage owner, all I have to show for my life's endeavors is 50+ years of electrical/electronic experience plus engine building and tuning as a hobby.
I'm still learning unlike you, for example I know feck all about the internals of the P38 injection pump and I would never claim to be knowledgeable about many of the mechanical aspects of a car but I do know where to get the information needed to make a decisions whether to attempt a job or not.
You introduced the subject of leaks, not me. My question was about a temperature difference with new coolant, you seem to like to throw in irrelevant comments. There may well be a greater propensity of anti freeze to leak when compared to water but it was not relevant on two counts, the comparison was between old and new antifreeze presumably with the same propensity to leak, secondly I have never had a problem on any car with coolant leaks apart from when a component fails.

I think i have said 13.9 is not shabby. Of course it depends on the set point of the controller, 13.9 could be an overcharge on some various older vehicles. 13.9 on a unit with a 14.2 set point would indicate wear or a failing controller bad connections Etc. I have not moved to anything different units have different set points. Depending on the battery they are designed to utilise. Older standard 13.5 would be as useful as tits on a Mars bar for a gel or calcium battery. If i had wanted to be an expert on auto electrical i would have served my time as an auto electrician. The addition of antifreeze and it's ability to find small gaps to leak through and the reason it does that is relevant to your cooling question. It's just that you don't know why it is. I do, i suggest you look at Wiki and find out.

diesel engine code

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Datatek

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Datatek

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Datatek

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Datatek

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Similar threads