Defender TD5_Gear Shift 1st-2d

I've got this model. I had the original factory R380 and then a few years ago it got very noisy so I fitted a reconditioned box, so I've had both. It's perfectly happy pulling away in second unless you're going up a steep slope. I just use first as a crawler gear for very low speed precision manoeuvring such as getting into a tight parking space or for setting off on steep hills.

Brown said:

I've got this model. I had the original factory R380 and then a few years ago it got very noisy so I fitted a reconditioned box, so I've had both. It's perfectly happy pulling away in second unless you're going up a steep slope. I just use first as a crawler gear for very low speed precision manoeuvring such as getting into a tight parking space or for setting off on steep hills.

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Hello Brown,
Thank you very much for your quick reply. The reason for you pulling away in 2d is because of the difficult (not smooth) 1st to 2d up-shift on the R380 if you rev it high while changing or shift after 15 km/h. Right ?

Chalky. said:

If you do the gear change nice and slow it allows the synchros, which may be slightly worn, to disengage and engage.

You cannot do quick snatch gear changes on any older landrover gearbox.

And change from first to second almost as soon as the wheels are rolling. You can also double de-clutch to engage easier.

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+1 ^

Cars I drove when I first started driving never had synchro on 1st.
And were often worn in 2nd.
I was taught to take it from first then pause in neutral then put it in 2nd.
In fact you should do that in all gear changes to allow the synchromesh to synch the two gears.
Double declutching does the same but better, and to me is more fun, but again that takes longer in a 4x4.
I was taught to change from 1st to 2nd within 3 car lengths. That still works today.

" it allows the synchros, which may be slightly worn, to disengage and engage."

This is a bit mad, but I only learned the other day, and this is after having rebuilt a few gearboxes, ,that the synchro rings do not stay stuck to the gear wheels once the change has been made, so they do not disengage as such.
When you push the gearlever in to engage the next gear, the synchro ring gets pressed up against the gear wheel and speeds it up or slows it down until the gears can be slipped into position with one another. Then when you release the gear lever the synchro ring slides away a fraction.
Or at least that is how I understand it.
Others will clarify if I am wrong or haven't quite got it right!

I don't have a problem going from first to second on either of my R380 gearboxes. It's just less to do if I pull away in second. Plus, as I'm usually at a junction it allows me to focus on steering with both hands and looking for traffic, whichis a better use of my time. First is a bit notchy to get into but that's the gate rather than the gearbox internals per se. Similarly, going from second to third I find easiest if I let go of the lever and let it float for a moment and allow the springs to find the gate. If I try to do it with my hand on the lever the whole time it's much more difficult, and it feels like it's not going to go in. But that's just the peculiarities of the driving experience and I got used to them quite quickly.