Also, if the track rod ball joints are rusted into the track rod itself, they can be loosened by putting the rod on something solid and hammering it all round where the ball joint screws in. This helps break the seal formed by the rust and usually enables you to screw them out.
I seem to remember last time I did mine I had to take the anti-roll bar out to be able to get the track rod out. Or I might be thinking about the exhaust pipe.
It's not a difficult job to do at home with a few spanners and hammers. Land Rover tolerances are somewhat relaxed so it's perfectly driveable with tracking adjusted by tape measure, certainly enough to get you to a garage with a tracking machine. But that's only if you're very particular about it. I've done the best part of 140,000 miles on tape measure adjusted tracking and it's been fine. A very small amount of movement of the track rod can make a big difference at the perimeter of the tyres. Around a quarter of a turn on the track rod can give you around 4-6mm more toe out or toe in depending on which way you're turning it. Even so, it's not hard to get it pretty close. I prefer a tiny bit of toe in myself.
