Defender td5 drivetrain slack

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Josh Y

Member
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11
Location
Norfolk
Hi, I’ve been noticing more and more recently of clunking when pulling away and changing gears if I’m not careful enough with the clutch. I was wondering if this is normal and live with it or if it could be made better with new halfshafts or other bits? there doesn’t seem to be much play in the prop when the vehicle is on the ground, but with one wheel of the ground there is a fair bit of movement.
 
Check your A frame balljoint as this is usually the cause. Failing that lift each wheel and look for play in the drive flanges as these wear and can cause a clunk. Are your UJs in good condition?
 
Agree with the Drive Flanges, I was doing rear brake pads and noticed the excess play in the flanges. Changed those two and it took a lot of the 'clunk' out of. And it's an easy job.....
 
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Yup, stick it in gear... CHOCK it well !!!!!!!!!!!!

Then rock it with someone under (lengthways unless they think walking is over-rated) and you will see where the noise/play is coming from.

Looking at those UJ's they haven't seen grease in some time. Even if it wasn't UJ's get some WD40 all over them to make it easier for when they do go.
 
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I had some clunking and it was the UJ's...You will see play on the A Frame or on the UJ's/Other with rocking it.

How long have you had it ? If it turns out to be the UJ's get yourself a special socket and it will save rounding the bolts... they are pennies from Britpart and will turn a 1 hour hell job into a pleasure.

110 UJ replacement in Corsica 2013 - Imgur
5GG0IcY
 
There's some very handsome encrustations on those universal joints. Mine usually show some signs of slack well before they get to that point.

On my TD5 the biggest improvement in drivetrain clunk comes from replacing the rear drive flanges. The front ones make a little bit of a difference but the rear ones make the most. Fortunately the flanges tend to wear faster than the halfshafts, which is good because they're a lot cheaper. I tend to favour the aftermarket ones with a screw on cap so you can fill it with oil and get a bit of lubrication on the splines.
While looking at the suspension, it's worth checking for movement on the other joints and bushes. For example, once upon a time I found some movement on one of the bushes where the rear radius arms join the chassis. I don't think it was contributing much to the drivetrain clunk, but overall, the tighter you get your drivetrain and suspension the less of this kind of noise you'll experience.
 
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