Defender Rear bumperss?

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adh

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I've been kitting out our new Defender for use on the farm and wanting to keep it's shine protected for a little while at least I have been looking into bumpers and bullbars.

I have already fitted a smart old bull bar on the front off a Range-Rover but I haven't been able to find what I want to protect that vulnrable rear end.

I'm not a fan of the bumperettes as they put all the force through the weakest part of the chassis member and the ones Ive seen don't seem too sturdy anyway.

Does anybody know of a full length bumper iron of any type in existance for the rear?

I have already designd something that I was going to make myself, but just wondered if there is already something out there to save me bothering.
 
the only other thing they make that i can think of if the NAS step,

as for bumperettes and the 'weak' part of the chassis, me old 1974 series 3 was reversed through a double skin brick wall and the chassis survived and that hit on the very corner of the rear cross-member, military style bumperettes are designed to take impacts and are sacrificial i.e. they should deform before the chassis does
 
Hi I am in the process of finalising a design for a full width rear bumper for the series/ defender this will also incorporate a winch mount as well as a towbar.

PM me if you are intrested ;)
 
military style bumperettes are designed to take impacts and are sacrificial i.e. they should deform before the chassis does

The proper military bumperettes are solid, they are designed to be used in conjunction with double height end front bumpers so that they could push start landys in the field. Too many tubes were smashing lights and there was a standing order that this was not to be done anymore. However they still fitted the bumperettes as they do make for a better rear end, and also offer the flat back some protection.

This style (the real ones in my eyes) are the ones which may if subjected to too much force, i.e. speedy impact with something solid, may cause chassis damage when mounted to a normal chassis. MOD rear crossmembers on the series Landys (before the no shunt start order) didn't taper in at the ends and was stronger. Which is also why the proper MOD bumperettes have 4 holes in a rectangular formation, which obviously doesn't suit a tapered rear crossmember.

So I think the best option would be MOD spec bumperettes, and then a bit of chassis
reinforcing - it wouldn't take that much as it is already good for low speed stuff.
 
Decided to go with my idea.
The step/winch idea sounds good, but a little over the top for what I need.

Have a look and see what you think, but I've already found it worth it's weight in gold in just 1/2 a day.



Its mounted close to the main chassis rails so it doesn't stress the outriggers and I've designed it with a box section set 2" away from the Xmember so the bumper can bend into the space in a heavy impact, absorbing the impact before it gets to the body. The Bumper irons should take a light knock easily but will obviously absorb a lot of impact in a proper bump, prior to the main box section getting damaged.

I've used the standard bolt holes in the Chassis, so it's fitted in minutes and I've set it so with the tow bar on high setting for the cattle trailer it still has clearance.

The irons work brilliantly for resting tool boxes etc on when you need a free hand to get the back door open and It doubles as a step for me to access my roof rails.
Ohh .....and it's great for pulling wellies off!

I made a couple, but my mate's already asked me for the 2nd one for his 90, so I think I'm going to try and knock up a couple more to stick on ebay if anyone's interested....Will call it "Rear Defender".
I'm pretty sure the holes I'm using will be standard to all 90 110 Xmembers, but Serries might need drilling.
Anybody know any different?
 
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Photos of said bumper
 

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They look pretty good. If I didn't have my mod bumperettes I would copy that design (sending you a royalty payment of course).
 
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